Jump to content

New Fuel Pump Bad?


Recommended Posts

Posted

I replaced the fuel pump in my truck and it wasn't pressurizing my fuel system. I pulled it back out and placed it in a bucket of gas and I hooked up the wiring and it took a few turning on and off with the key but it did get fuel up into the clear tube that goes to the top of the unit. so I hooked it all back up and put it in my tank and tank back on truck and after many on and off's with the key I still can't get my fuel system pressurized. (I have a pressure gauge hooked up) Was I supposed to prime that pump first or what gives?

Why is it not pressurizing my system? I don't have a lot of gas in the tank and don't want to put more in if I have to drop the tank again, but I had enough for the old pump to run the truck. What am I doing wrong?

I just unhooked the fuel line before my filter and there was no gas there.

 

 

Optional Information:

Year : 2001

Make : Chevrolet

Make (other) : Silverado

Model : 2500 HD

Engine : 6.0

Posted
I replaced the fuel pump in my truck and it wasn't pressurizing my fuel system. I pulled it back out and placed it in a bucket of gas and I hooked up the wiring and it took a few turning on and off with the key but it did get fuel up into the clear tube that goes to the top of the unit. so I hooked it all back up and put it in my tank and tank back on truck and after many on and off's with the key I still can't get my fuel system pressurized. (I have a pressure gauge hooked up) Was I supposed to prime that pump first or what gives?

Why is it not pressurizing my system? I don't have a lot of gas in the tank and don't want to put more in if I have to drop the tank again, but I had enough for the old pump to run the truck. What am I doing wrong?

I just unhooked the fuel line before my filter and there was no gas there.

 

No priming required....would be easier to pull the bed versus dropping the tank.....what brand of fuel pump did you go back with?

Posted

I couldn't get the bolts off to pull the bed...believe me I tried. The new one I bought was a no name off of ebay...Yeah I know, but I thought it would work for at least a little while.

Posted
I couldn't get the bolts off to pull the bed...believe me I tried. The new one I bought was a no name off of ebay...Yeah I know, but I thought it would work for at least a little while.

 

Well if you've got power/ground to the pump and you're getting no pressure I'm sure you know what the problem is....any warranty on the pump?

Posted

Yes, one year...but I think I am going to try and return it to the seller and go get a delco from auto zone. What I should have done the first time!

 

 

Thanks for the help...I'll let you know if the new one helps!

Posted

Sup,

 

Pump is more than likely bad.

 

The pump you got did they ask you about EVAP or NO-EVAP or for a 3 letter code off your old pump???? The pump in your truck is ONLY I MEAN ONLY available as a complete DROP in unit. I have seen people at my store with EBay pumps where they sent ONLY the pump not the unit.

 

As far as I am gathering you took the wiring off the frame placed the pump assembly in the bucket of gas with out anything to allow back pressure at the pump... (air came backwards into the pump causing a no-priming issue) A new pump should not have done that but a weak old one will. Usually you have the line in front of the pump plugged into the pump keeping the air in front of the fuel entering the pump…

 

 

 

When you crank the vehicle it primes the system and discharges the air out of the fuel injectors and does not allow the pump to suck air in. You need 10 gallons in the tank upon start up of the replacement pump to insure that the pump will be submersed in fuel to keep it cool. If the pump gets hot on start up it will burn the pump up maybe not right now but will greatly decrease the life of the pump..

 

 

Delphi # FG0053 is probably the unit that your truck takes (EVAP Emissions).... (3 letter code on top of pump assembly TCF) 1 white and 1 black electrical connector...

 

Delphi # FG0271 is without EVAP Emissions (3 letter code on top of pump assembly TCU) 2 white electrical connectors

 

Past that make sure you have 12 volts back at the pump on the hot wire.... In the fuse box there should be a primer jumper for the fuel pump... Disconnect the pump wiring that the top of the fuel pump assembly and check for 12 volts after the jumper has be set in place. (Note do not do this and leave a pump ON for more than 5 seconds trying to prime a pump!!!!!!!!!) Either an Oring will give somewhere [begin to leak] or the pump fails!!!!

 

 

 

 

 

Just my 2 cents worth take it or leave it.... This is a problem I face quite often..... I am NAPA store jobber...

 

Jbo

Posted

Wow Jb, thanks for the great post, I appreciate it.

 

It was a complete drop in, but they did not ask for any EVAP or codes or anything like that. I just now looked at the old pump and it says TCU on it. It had a 4 prong harness for hook up...I assume a hot, a ground, and 2 for the sending unit.

 

So this primer Jumper you are talking about...I don't recall anything like that in my fuse box...are you saying to jump the relay so it is always on so I can test the voltage? Obviously after I disconnect the pump harness so I don't burn the pump?

 

Thanks for the help, I'm getting frustrated with this truck...been working on it for 2 weeks now...I miss/need my truck back!

  • 4 years later...

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,739
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    chfkief
    Newest Member
    chfkief
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,608 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Fred was in the fertilized egg business. He had several hundred young pullets, and ten roosters to fertilize the eggs He kept records, and any rooster not performing went into the soup pot and was replaced. This took a lot of time, so he bought some tiny bells and attached them to his roosters. Each bell had a different tone, so he could tell from a distance, which rooster was performing. Now, he could sit on the porch and fill out an efficiency report by just listening to the bells. Fred's favourite rooster, old Butch, was a very fine specimen, but this morning he noticed old Butch's bell hadn't rung at all! When he went to investigate, he saw the other roosters were busy chasing pullets, bells-a-ringing, but the pullets, hearing the roosters coming, would run for cover. To Fred's amazement, old Butch had his bell in his beak, so it couldn't ring. He'd sneak up on a pullet, do his job and walk on to the next one. Fred was so proud of old Butch, he entered him in the City Show and he became an overnight sensation among the judges. The result was the judges not only awarded old Butch the "No Bell Piece Prize," but they also awarded him the "Pulletsurprise" as well. Clearly old Butch was a politician in the making. Who else but a politician could figure out how to win two of the most coveted awards on our planet by being the best at sneaking up on the unsuspecting populace and screwing them when they weren't paying attention. Vote carefully in the next election, you can't always hear the bells.
    • Can someone confirm if the GM order workbench terminal is able to validate a custom build sequence:   1) Initialize the Allocation Base: Open a new vehicle build queue, select the 2026 Chevrolet Suburban 4WD, and pick the High Country (3LZ Preferred Equipment Group).   2) Select the Diesel Powertrain: Go directly to the engine configuration screen and choose RPO code LZ0 (3.0L Duramax Turbo-Diesel). Ensure it maps to the MHS 10-speed automatic transmission.   3) Deploy the Seating Swap: Navigate to the Interior Options screen and enter RPO code ATT to replace the standard captain's chairs with the power-release 60/40 bench seat. Because you are not trying to force a separate luxury or air-suspension bundle, the standard, premium D07 Fixed Floor Console remains active. The system will accept this change immediately without triggering a warning message.   3)Apply Heavy-Duty Hauling Capability: Input RPO code NHT (Max Trailering Package). The commercial terminal will automatically bundle the required trailering hardware and software modules to support the diesel engine's maximum towing capacity.   5) Layer the Premium Tech and Glass: Separately add code C3U (Panoramic Power Sunroof) and code UKL (Super Cruise) to the order screen.   6) Run the Final Validation: Click the "Validate Order" button at the bottom of the interface.
    • Spent the last hour or 2 googling and reading up on the spacer thing. I don't like the loss of thread contact on the slip on spacers, but it appears you can get "extended" lug nuts that reach into the hole of the wheel to get back the lost threads. Looks like the only true hubcentric slip on spacers are at least .375". I'd want as little as I could get away with and don't want to cause other clearance issues going any thicker. Bora seems to offer what appears to be a well made .375" spacer and extended lug nuts. I searched here and did find a couple threads recommending Bora. But not cheap. By the time I buy spacers and lugs, new TPMS sensors, then pay a tire shop to install the new sensors, I suspect I'm going to be in over $400. Thinking about running out and getting some washers to put behind the wheel to see if .375" is enough to clear calipers, turn lock to lock without rubbing, and to see if the wheels/tires look strange pushed out a little. This would just be to check fitment.
    • Roadmaster makes some quality parts; I have their sway bar. I considered the RAS, but I ended up bagging. I didn't know what kind of ride I'd get with RAS, and the bags have interior jounce bumpers, so I can run 0 pounds pressure. I figured I'd have the best of normal suspension ride with assist on-demand. But it seems you got pretty much the same in one item.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...