Jump to content

140k...still Going.. Fix What First?


Recommended Posts

Posted

Will try and keep it simple - short..and sweet (But i know it's not going to be short.)

 

2002 Silv - 1500 4.8L LS 140K miles.

It is getting FULLY PAID OFF NEXT MONTH. :thumbs:

 

Things GOOD: I've not had ANY, NONE Mechanical problems.

I Change my oil about 4000miles.

I replaced 1 of the 2(yes 2) CatConv. few years ago, and replaced the rear brakes @ 90K..and the Fronts @ 120K.

 

THAT IS IT.

 

Things I sorta(?!!) neglected:

Original Fluids:

DexCool ----> never touched it..

Rear Diff. -----> never had work on it (open, not locking)

Trans. -----> never had work on it

 

Original EVERYTHING:

Sparks, filters (oh, have a K&N Stock Air filter that I occasionaly wash and oil)

CHANGED Belts out @ 70,000 when my A/C compressor died.

I think the serpentine is original still.. I dunno.

 

So: (quit throwing tomatoes already :smash: )

 

What do you recommend? I now have some $$ that I can play with to fix it better to keep Longer....

But - it ain't Broke.... and you know how that goes...

 

So - I Emplore each of you... to give me the TOP 5 Things I should do First:

IN ORDER - and possible $$ we're talking here...

 

no really, i haven't changed one fluid except oil. so wtf do you suggest? :lol:

Posted

 

DexCool. Include replacing all hoses, thermostat and doing a thorough flush. Replace the serpentine belt if never replaced. < $150

Fuel filter $10

 

Trans. and filter. Filter $25 or less. Fluid ? price depends on what you use

Sparkplugs and wires $100 or less depending on where you purchase. Check ebay.

Rear Diff. $ depends on your choice of lubes. Conventional or synthetic

 

Power steering fluid. $ depends on your choice of lubes. Conventional or synthetic

Posted

I agree with the above except maybe just leave the trans alone (the whole thing about changing the fluid at all after that many miles may cause the trans more issues)

Look around and fix any leaks or broken thing you may find on the underside.

And then drive it without payments and enjoy. :)

Posted

I don't think swapping out 4 or 5 qts of trans fluid in the pan will cause a problem. The maybe in a year he swaps another 4 or 5.

 

One thing to check would be to see if you have an air filter for the heat/ac system inside. If so you may need to change it

Posted

Good thoughts Guys! Thank you...

 

Anyone Else got some Ideas on what to do? whther you agree with these - or have a totally Different idea of what to do...?

 

and i AM Looking forward to socking some $$$ away.. Woohoo!

 

but - i want to actually take care of these things before I get a set of tires...

and run another 50K or so on it... :thumbs:

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Definitely look for any leaks!

 

and

 

Flush that bad boy out with your favorite cleaners. Maybe a oil and fuel cleaner. There are many choices.

 

and

 

The first response nailed it, just don't forget to check for leaks.

Posted

I put a filter and fluid in my trans every 30k miles, and would recommend the same. I am kinda hard on my trans though, harder than most. I am just over 140k miles on an 03 5.3. It costs me about $35

 

I would have a shop flush/fill your brake fluid. By 140k you definately have water in it by now. I know brakes aren't "glamorous", but they are important $40-$50 depending on shop.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

NO MORE PAYMENTS ! Whoop !

 

Now that I got THAT out, I feel better.

 

Anyways - All of these have been taken into consideration and really written done on a checklist for me to take care of in the next few weeks.

It's not a Rush thing - but I'm looking to bust the 150,000 marker soon enough. Nice "anniversary present" for it.

 

Now, to fix the cosmetic damage by the Horse Bite (yes, really) on my hood.

and the DRL lamp Sockets that are burnt, cursty and don't even work at all..

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...