Jump to content

2009 2500

Stevens03

Recommended Posts

Stevens03 Senior Enthusiast

Stevens03

Posted
Posted

I've got a Vmax 6.0 4-speed trans with 4.10 gears. Would a 2500 6.0 6-speed 4.10 gears tow that much better ... enough to trade? I feel like I've got all the power I need, but on the highway at 65-70mph I can really feel the wind drag on the camping trailer. Would the 6-speed handle the highway cruise better?

pknowles Enthusiast

pknowles

Posted
Posted
I've got a Vmax 6.0 4-speed trans with 4.10 gears. Would a 2500 6.0 6-speed 4.10 gears tow that much better ... enough to trade? I feel like I've got all the power I need, but on the highway at 65-70mph I can really feel the wind drag on the camping trailer. Would the 6-speed handle the highway cruise better?

The 2500 vs 1500 is not about power at all, it's about added stability from the suspension and piece of mind from the larger brakes. How much does you trailer weigh and how much do you pull it? I see you live in PA. I love the bigger brakes of the 2500 when going through the Allegheny mountains in PA. In my years of truck it was the 4L60E vs 4L80E, I wanted the HD trans as well because of the hills (didn't want to cook the 4L60E) so I got a 2500. In mountainous terrain like western PA, any trailer over ~5-6k that I tow regularly, I would want a 2500HD. In the flatter parts of the county ~5-6k is OK for a 1500.

ATMINF Enthusiast

ATMINF

Posted
Posted

Don't forget that the new 2500HD 6.0 gassers have the new L92 heads which give them another 50-60hp, also the 6L90 trans really helps the overall capablity of the truck. That maybe the two biggest reasons why the tow ratings for the 6.0 gasser 2500HD jumped from the 10K+ range (2000-2007 classic) to the 13k range in the "new" HD trucks. Also remember that the GMT-800 HD trucks are basically unchanged except the sheetmetal and drivetrain for the new HD trucks. I guess we can look at this as GM saving some money, and that the GMT800 HD trucks from 2000-present are just that good that only some minor things needed to be updated. One last thing the V-max trucks are very good but they are not 2500HDs. The HD trucks have the same frame and brakes as the SRW 3500, while the V-max is a differnt frame, brakes, trans, etc.

I would say though that I would not trade you truck in now, I would think yours is still good. Remember you don't have to drive 70-80mph when towing. Most of the time doing 65 is just fine, towing.

gave20 Senior Enthusiast

gave20

Posted
Posted

While I don't have the 6 speed, Mine pulls mine 5K camper just fine on the highway but I don't think you'll see enough difference to warrant a change. Yeah you can haul and stop a lot more with an HD but you're only pulling 6K. If you're getting drag on the trailer is your WD bars set up right? Does the truck and camper set level when hooked up? 5-6K if light enough for almost any 1/2 ton sounds like a set up issue more than anything else.

Stevens03 Senior Enthusiast

Stevens03

Posted
  • Author
Posted

With the NHT package, the truck only drops about 2" when I put the tongue of the camper on. The weight distribution bars level the truck right out. I'm looking for better highway pulling ease. I was thinking the 6-speed would help that. It's not a power issue since the Vmax has 367hp stock and the 2500 has 360hp stock. The trailer weighs in at 6000lbs so with gear I'm about 6500 I'd guess. With water, 7000lbs maybe. I also have the 4L70e which is the HD version of the 4L60e trans.

 

Maybe I'm just trying to drive to fast. :rolleyes:

hockeypro1411 Senior Enthusiast

hockeypro1411

Posted
Posted
With the NHT package, the truck only drops about 2" when I put the tongue of the camper on. The weight distribution bars level the truck right out. I'm looking for better highway pulling ease. I was thinking the 6-speed would help that. It's not a power issue since the Vmax has 367hp stock and the 2500 has 360hp stock. The trailer weighs in at 6000lbs so with gear I'm about 6500 I'd guess. With water, 7000lbs maybe. I also have the 4L70e which is the HD version of the 4L60e trans.

 

Maybe I'm just trying to drive to fast. :rolleyes:

 

65-70 mph IMO is way too fast no matter what you're towing.

Stevens03 Senior Enthusiast

Stevens03

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I just got back from test driving 2 diesels. Hands down, 2009 Superduty 3500 rides nicer on the road than the Chevy 2500. They both got under 15 mpg highway at 65 on cruise. The ford was Chipped and other mods and OMG it was a blast to drive. It was putting down 650hp and over 800 torque. It was incredible to drive... I don't care who you are, it was a blast.

 

Either way,.. I'm not trading. I'm going to get a Blackbear tune and see how much different it is from the Diablo to compare in the spring. Also, I'm going to put a leveling kit on my truck to give it a little lift in the front.

VMax2007 Senior Enthusiast

VMax2007

Posted
Posted
With the NHT package, the truck only drops about 2" when I put the tongue of the camper on. The weight distribution bars level the truck right out. I'm looking for better highway pulling ease. I was thinking the 6-speed would help that. It's not a power issue since the Vmax has 367hp stock and the 2500 has 360hp stock. The trailer weighs in at 6000lbs so with gear I'm about 6500 I'd guess. With water, 7000lbs maybe. I also have the 4L70e which is the HD version of the 4L60e trans.

 

Maybe I'm just trying to drive to fast. :lol:

 

65-70 mph IMO is way too fast no matter what you're towing.

 

 

:D

 

I pull my boat (about 6K lbs) at 70MPH all day long, no problem. :rolleyes:

Stevens03 Senior Enthusiast

Stevens03

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I pull my boat (about 6K lbs) at 70MPH all day long, no problem

 

I'll pulled heavier trailers too, but your not catching the wind drag with your boat that I am with a camping trailer. :rolleyes:

Ridgerunner30 Enthusiast

Ridgerunner30

Posted
Posted

Most true trailers tires are not rated to be operated above 65mph. After having trouble with my trailer tires, I did some research on the difference between trailer tires and truck / automotive tires. The differences are significant. Heat build up is a common problem that causes catastrophic blowouts. The heat build up is most commonly caused by low inflation pressure and high speed operation. Trailer tires should be inflated to the pressure stamped on the tire sidewall. If you pull a trailer it is worth the effort to do a search on trailer tire design and read over the information. The trailer tire information certainly was an eye opener for me.

VMax2007 Senior Enthusiast

VMax2007

Posted
Posted
I pull my boat (about 6K lbs) at 70MPH all day long, no problem

 

I'll pulled heavier trailers too, but your not catching the wind drag with your boat that I am with a camping trailer. :rolleyes:

 

 

Very true.

music Senior Enthusiast

music

Posted
Posted
I'm looking for better highway pulling ease.

 

Curious about what you mean by "highway pulling ease"? You're pulling a similar weight camper as me, and I have the 5.3/3.73, so you have ~20% more "torque to the road" across the rpm range.

imollison Enthusiast

imollison

Posted
Posted
Most true trailers tires are not rated to be operated above 65mph. After having trouble with my trailer tires, I did some research on the difference between trailer tires and truck / automotive tires. The differences are significant. Heat build up is a common problem that causes catastrophic blowouts. The heat build up is most commonly caused by low inflation pressure and high speed operation. Trailer tires should be inflated to the pressure stamped on the tire sidewall. If you pull a trailer it is worth the effort to do a search on trailer tire design and read over the information. The trailer tire information certainly was an eye opener for me.

 

I have to agree with you on this one....mind you that is slowly changing in some of the newer 5th wheel trailers. I have a 2009 28 foot Denali fifth wheel and I noticed when I bought it that the tires are filled with nitrogen.....I was surprised at first but it is a great way to keep the tire temp down.....so less chance of a blow out due to heat build up.

txdutt Enthusiast

txdutt

Posted
Posted

towing that kind of weight it's probably not worth it IMO....I do like the features that the 6L90 has, grade braking-tap shift in manual mode-etc that the 4 speed autos don't have...

Stevens03 Senior Enthusiast

Stevens03

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I'm looking for better highway pulling ease.

 

Curious about what you mean by "highway pulling ease"? You're pulling a similar weight camper as me, and I have the 5.3/3.73, so you have ~20% more "torque to the road" across the rpm range.

 

 

Hard to describe, but maybe the best way to put it... I've always got to have my foot on the throttle? When I first got my trailer, the tire pressure was low, so I added some and it pulled easier but It still feels like there's drag at highway speeds. :rolleyes:

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.6k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    343,007
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Brendan C
    Newest Member
    Brendan C
    Joined

  • Who's Online   4 Members, 1 Anonymous, 1,194 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • richard wysong
      Electrical Problem - solved

      By richard wysong · Posted

      Thanks for posting, I'm sure it will help someone
    • Brendan C
      2026 6.6 L5P oil cooler leaking oil at 4,000 miles

      By Brendan C · Posted

      New to diesel trucks. I happened to find my oil cooler leaking oil externally with only 4,000 miles on the truck. I didn’t realize this was an issue until I started researching it. Dealer is going to replace it under warranty but I’m wondering if there’s anything GM is working on to fix this issue. I’ve heard the oil filter used is the same as they use on their V6 motors and that’s what is causing the problems. Should I switch to a bigger filter or keep using the OEM recommended? 
    • Vu1can
      Seems to be Missing a lot of Updates

      By Vu1can · Posted

      So, GMCustomerService:  Judging by the Update History pictured above, is this truck missing any updates that it actually needs. If it's just for the infotainment system, the radio is working fine and no trouble with SeriusXM. and Android Auto is working fine wirelessly with my phone. Some months ago, an update notice was sent to my truck. I approved the update and it finished saying that the update was successful, but it seems that whatever that update was, it didn't actually get installed - at least not if I'm to go by the Update History shown above.   So, again, are there any updates that this truck really should have? I've checked with my dealer but they're reluctant or commit to anything and if I want them to check, they require a $200.00 fee just to check it out and then I'd have to pay for the actual update(s).    Ignorance is bliss, and if none of the updates goes to fixing any mechanical discrepancies, I'll just leave things as is.  
    • CNH-320
      Electrical Problem - solved

      By CNH-320 · Posted

      Hey everyone, I recently had an issue with my 07 2500HD GMT900. My DRL’s stay on at all times. Right front turn and right mirror turn signal indicator stay on solid at all times. By “at all times” I mean the only way to make them go off is disconnecting the battery. I tore the headlight assemblies out, tried disconnecting the harnesses to eliminate bad wiring at the harness, I unplugged the headlight switch, no change and the mirror turn signal still stayed on. My first thoughts were : Bad bulb and/or socket somewhere, under hood fuse panel bad, bcm bad, tail light or trailer wiring problem, or some random short to power in the harness.  Possibly a bad ground but unlikely. I had a big clue in the fuse panel, it had a burnt smell. I started pulling every fuse that had to do with DRL or right turn/park lamp. Nothing made the right directional turn off but pulling the DRL2 fuse made the DRL’s go out.  After studying wiring diagrams, I found that both problems had that fuse panel in common, the bcm also controls both problems but knowing the fuse panel had a burnt smell I removed and disassembled the fuse panel and found a little corrosion on the printed circuit board.  I ordered a new fuse panel from Amazon for like $260. When it arrived I installed it, and put everything back together, the problem was fixed. I figured the fuse panel needed to be replaced anyway so that was a logical place to start. Hopefully this story helps someone in the future. Regretfully I didn’t scan for codes before I did everything.
    • 2022LtTbZ71
      Service 4wd, ESC light, traction control light on, Service charging system (vehicle may stall)

      By 2022LtTbZ71 · Posted

      That stinks. I’m sitting on the side of the road right now with the same issue. Never had an issue before taking it in for the ground strap recall. Now I’m outside of warranty and they’ll probably want $200 just to diagnose what they already “fixed”. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...