What Is The Point Of Aftermarket Keys?

[Bryan-Truck]

I have read quite a bit about cranking the torsion bars, the benefits and downsides. I want to level my truck (2005 Sierra 1500, 4x4, long box) and allow for 285/70/17's. Originally I wanted to get aftermarket keys because I thought that allowed for the same factory ride but you could get 2" of lift out of them. It seems that if I want 1.5-2" of lift, turning the bolts 4-5 times, the stock keys will be just fine. The only thing I read about the aftermarket keys that showed any benefit was that you could torque up the bars more than the stock keys with the same stress on the t-bars? However, whether you have aftermarket keys or the stockers the ride will still be stiffer, and the same degree of stress will be placed on the T-bars. Just wanted to make sure Im on the right track, and see if Im missing anything about aftermarket keys, or maybe the Ford keys? Thanks

[Matt_]

Originally I wanted to get aftermarket keys because I thought that allowed for the same factory ride but you could get 2" of lift out of them.

 

That is the biggest misconception out there about aftermarket keys... they DO NOT retain stock ride.

 

Facts:

1) Aftermarket keys do not retain stock ride quality

2) 2" of increased ride height with aftermarket keys has the same effect on ride quality, geometry, stress and wear as 2" achieved from the stock keys.

3) The only benefit (and i used the word "benefit" loosely) of aftermarket keys is to crank more than stock keys allow due to indexing. Most 99+ trucks can only get about 1" from the stock keys... probably because too many people were cranking their pre-99 trucks 2"+ and then complaining to GM when their front ends fell apart. So GM tried to idiot proof it... but the good ol saying "never underestimate the ingenuity of a complete idiot" holds true, and thus aftermarket keys were born and someone realized they can get "ford" keys.

[xc80002]

I turned the stock keys up on my 06 silverado ext cab 6 1/2 box and had 1 3/4 lift. Turning your bars up will stiffen the front end however you do it. I liked it, made it ride more like a truck.

[ezskanken]

damn, now i'm stuck between a rock and a hard place now. i was wanting to go with the Zone Offroad 3.5" Combo Kit which says it will maintain a "factory" ride. i wanted to do that with some 33 mt's. ooooooohhhhhh boy, more searching and reading i guess. sometimes i hate that damn search button though, lol...

[Heysdad]

Sorry.... ......I know this is going to open a can of worms here, but I've just got to explain this how it was explained to me by ReadyLift, ProComp, Rancho, and Yamaha, Toyota, and Nissan. I even got under an older off-road race truck to see for myself how this really worked with a friend from California, and a very well known off-road racer. I always thought cranking T-Bars or installing keys was the same thing.....WRONG!!!

 

We did the torsion bar crank up on our Hummer H3. It rode very harsh...3 months later we got a set of ReadyLift keys installed. Rides like it did the day we bought it. Awesome!

 

Cranking torsion bars causes preload vs. Installing keys gives a new starting point for the bar without adding preload greater than the stock setting.

 

Say you have a motocross bike with forks that have a nitrogen charge. The forks are sagging in travel so you add nitrogen to increase the travel, and reduce the sag, however now you have stiffened them up. It's the same as cranking up the T-bars.

 

If you change the starting point of the T-bar to increase travel, IE:KEYS, you have not changed the amount of preload to achieve this lift. The load is the nominal amount given when designed to carry that given amount of weight, however the droop of the control arms is grater. The weight of the vehicle is still the same.

 

If you start at the stock starting point of the T-Bar and crank in preload to achieve lift, now you have introduced a greater spring rate into the T-Bar to get lift, and will have a more firm ride. Just like adding nitrogen to the forks of the bike.

 

OK....

[Z'06]

Just get the Ford keys and plan on buying longer shocks (Bilstein 5100 highly recommended) so that you don't top out.

[Matt_]

page.... installing stock keys with a "new starting point" IS ADDING preload. you can not and will not retain a stock ride with new keys as opposed to cranking the stock keys.

 

you are not, i repeat, are NOT changing the spring rate with either method.

 

FACT is, to obtain 2" of increased ride heigh you need the same amount of "twist" on the torsion bars regardless of which keys are in there. anyone who thinks otherwise needs to go learn how torsion bars work and how they hold up your truck.....and im talking about a textbook, not some GED educated Readylift salesman

[Heysdad]

Hello Matt...I knew this was going to go this way...LOL. You have helped me in the past with my alignment issue and I do believe you know what you are talking about...So....I'm just going to say.....OK!

 

I still need to say that the difference in the ride of our Hummer, was night and day between cranking T-Bars and doing keys. It was not just in our heads either....LOL.

 

When we cranked the T-bars that thing was bouncing all over the place, like a pogo-stick....And with the new keys she's just as smooth as the day we got her....Plus 2" of lift....

 

How does someone explain that????

 

I have experienced it myself firsthand, and can say that "I" found a difference between the 2 methods of achieving lift.

[Matt_]

my truck always runs better/stronger after i wash it....so if someone posts a thread that their engine is running rough should i tell them to bring it to a car wash?

 

 

seriously though.... the difference in ride could be from 0.25" difference of a height setting. either the setting wasnt the same, they installed different shocks with a different damping coefficient, or something else was changed.....or it was in your head.

[Matt_]

actually i do have the answer for you...

 

i had a friend who put keys on his truck and it rode like crap. he needed an alignment anyways so he brought it to me. i noticed that his upper control arms were actually on the droop stops! i decranked his keys such that the UCA had some clearance between it and the droop stop.. the change in ride height was negligable, BUT the truck rode much better afterwards.

 

i would suspect that your case is similar to this. when the aftermarket keys were installed they made sure the UCA was not contacting the metal droop stops.