grandprixfamily Posted January 12, 2010 Posted January 12, 2010 i have a scanner/tuner i use for my pontiacs that can read timing, among other things. i just replaced the LIM and UIM gaskets on my 96 yukon, and i got the distributor back in without issue, i know its gotta be damn close. runs fine, feels good, no codes. i marked the rotor to housing orientation as well as the housing to LIM. question is, how can i KNOW its dialed in? ive searched and searched, did fond some mention here: http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?...1&hl=timing (Monitor the Camshaft Retard Offset value) <- sounds like a tech II paramater. can i do this myself being that i have a scanner with datastream capability? just reading actual timing. thanks in advance. edit: did some google searching, the more i read, im finding i cant do it with mine. i dont have that particular paramater. runs fine, no codes. im just anal about stuff, i wan it "right".
Nytemare Posted January 12, 2010 Posted January 12, 2010 You sound like a technical guy...so I wont dumb things down for you. Do you have a timing light...if not get one...borrowed or buy one. You unplug the light brown wire on the passenger side firewall that goes into the black case there....there's a quick connect inside that box, its black rubber on the brown wire. that is how you get ready to set base timing. You clean the timing marks, and set the engine up for 0* +/- 2* as your base timing. I would give it the +2, a little advance is good and saves fuel. than you plug the light brown wire back in. hit it with your light again and at idle it should read about 12-16* advance...and at 2000 it should read 25-30*...but the marks may not go that high...I can't remember...you usually get the high idle timing advance off a good scan tool. Actually...your scan tool could probably be used instead of a timing light even to set base timing.
redvett Posted January 12, 2010 Posted January 12, 2010 He he has a 96 and the distributer doesn't set timing the PCM does, he has to set cam off set and will need a scanner Tech 2 or similar one. You sound like a technical guy...so I wont dumb things down for you. Do you have a timing light...if not get one...borrowed or buy one. You unplug the light brown wire on the passenger side firewall that goes into the black case there....there's a quick connect inside that box, its black rubber on the brown wire. that is how you get ready to set base timing. You clean the timing marks, and set the engine up for 0* +/- 2* as your base timing. I would give it the +2, a little advance is good and saves fuel. than you plug the light brown wire back in. hit it with your light again and at idle it should read about 12-16* advance...and at 2000 it should read 25-30*...but the marks may not go that high...I can't remember...you usually get the high idle timing advance off a good scan tool. Actually...your scan tool could probably be used instead of a timing light even to set base timing.
grandprixfamily Posted January 12, 2010 Author Posted January 12, 2010 in some ways i wish i would have bought an OBD 1 truck, i was set on OBD 2 and the new vortec stuff. would have helped in this case if i had the older version. yea, ive used a tech 2 many times, and am actually certified by snap-on for their modus/solus scan tools. owning one however....... well, it hasnt set a code, and im certain it has to be very close. so should i not bother? how sensitive is it to setting a code?
Nytemare Posted January 13, 2010 Posted January 13, 2010 in some ways i wish i would have bought an OBD 1 truck, i was set on OBD 2 and the new vortec stuff. would have helped in this case if i had the older version. yea, ive used a tech 2 many times, and am actually certified by snap-on for their modus/solus scan tools. owning one however....... well, it hasnt set a code, and im certain it has to be very close. so should i not bother? how sensitive is it to setting a code? it ranges from 14 BTDC to 30+ at higher rpm's so I'd say not sensitive. I still thought you had to set the base timing with the Distributor. Its not like you can put the distributor in pointing at 2 with the engine at TDC. the PCM will correct a little but starting off with 0* is always good.
grandprixfamily Posted January 13, 2010 Author Posted January 13, 2010 well, i know its in there in the same spot give or take a nats ass from where it came out. and i didnt disturb the motor. drove it a bunch again today, and it feels good, runs just fine. ill try to get my hands on a scanner, IIRC a neighbor of mine might have a tech 2, so maybe i can rent it from him.
Nytemare Posted January 13, 2010 Posted January 13, 2010 well, i know its in there in the same spot give or take a nats ass from where it came out. and i didnt disturb the motor. drove it a bunch again today, and it feels good, runs just fine. ill try to get my hands on a scanner, IIRC a neighbor of mine might have a tech 2, so maybe i can rent it from him. I'd say your fine than. Like I said...if you can pop a scan tool on it, idle timing is 12-16* advance and 2000 rpm is 25-30* BTDC
travisstorma Posted January 13, 2010 Posted January 13, 2010 I remember when I changed the intake on my 96 pickup I used the Snapon unit to set the timing. If it wasn't within +/- 2 degrees the check engine light would come on.
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