Jump to content

Setting Timing, 96 Yukon


grandprixfamily

Recommended Posts

Posted

i have a scanner/tuner i use for my pontiacs that can read timing, among other things.

 

i just replaced the LIM and UIM gaskets on my 96 yukon, and i got the distributor back in without issue, i know its gotta be damn close. runs fine, feels good, no codes. i marked the rotor to housing orientation as well as the housing to LIM.

 

question is, how can i KNOW its dialed in? ive searched and searched, did fond some mention here:

 

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?...1&hl=timing

 

(Monitor the Camshaft Retard Offset value) <- sounds like a tech II paramater.

 

can i do this myself being that i have a scanner with datastream capability? just reading actual timing.

 

thanks in advance.

 

edit:

 

did some google searching, the more i read, im finding i cant do it with mine. i dont have that particular paramater.

 

runs fine, no codes. im just anal about stuff, i wan it "right".

Posted

You sound like a technical guy...so I wont dumb things down for you.

 

Do you have a timing light...if not get one...borrowed or buy one.

You unplug the light brown wire on the passenger side firewall that goes into the black case there....there's a quick connect inside that box, its black rubber on the brown wire.

that is how you get ready to set base timing. You clean the timing marks, and set the engine up for 0* +/- 2* as your base timing. I would give it the +2, a little advance is good and saves fuel. than you plug the light brown wire back in.

hit it with your light again and at idle it should read about 12-16* advance...and at 2000 it should read 25-30*...but the marks may not go that high...I can't remember...you usually get the high idle timing advance off a good scan tool.

 

Actually...your scan tool could probably be used instead of a timing light even to set base timing.

Posted

He he has a 96 and the distributer doesn't set timing the PCM does, he has to set cam off set and will need a scanner Tech 2 or similar one.

 

 

You sound like a technical guy...so I wont dumb things down for you.

 

Do you have a timing light...if not get one...borrowed or buy one.

You unplug the light brown wire on the passenger side firewall that goes into the black case there....there's a quick connect inside that box, its black rubber on the brown wire.

that is how you get ready to set base timing. You clean the timing marks, and set the engine up for 0* +/- 2* as your base timing. I would give it the +2, a little advance is good and saves fuel. than you plug the light brown wire back in.

hit it with your light again and at idle it should read about 12-16* advance...and at 2000 it should read 25-30*...but the marks may not go that high...I can't remember...you usually get the high idle timing advance off a good scan tool.

 

Actually...your scan tool could probably be used instead of a timing light even to set base timing.

Posted

in some ways i wish i would have bought an OBD 1 truck, i was set on OBD 2 and the new vortec stuff.

 

would have helped in this case if i had the older version. :lol:

 

yea, ive used a tech 2 many times, and am actually certified by snap-on for their modus/solus scan tools. owning one however....... :eek:

 

well, it hasnt set a code, and im certain it has to be very close. so should i not bother? how sensitive is it to setting a code?

Posted
in some ways i wish i would have bought an OBD 1 truck, i was set on OBD 2 and the new vortec stuff.

 

would have helped in this case if i had the older version. :lol:

 

yea, ive used a tech 2 many times, and am actually certified by snap-on for their modus/solus scan tools. owning one however....... :eek:

 

well, it hasnt set a code, and im certain it has to be very close. so should i not bother? how sensitive is it to setting a code?

it ranges from 14 BTDC to 30+ at higher rpm's so I'd say not sensitive.

 

I still thought you had to set the base timing with the Distributor. Its not like you can put the distributor in pointing at 2 with the engine at TDC. the PCM will correct a little but starting off with 0* is always good.

Posted

well, i know its in there in the same spot give or take a nats ass from where it came out. and i didnt disturb the motor.

 

drove it a bunch again today, and it feels good, runs just fine. ill try to get my hands on a scanner, IIRC a neighbor of mine might have a tech 2, so maybe i can rent it from him.

Posted
well, i know its in there in the same spot give or take a nats ass from where it came out. and i didnt disturb the motor.

 

drove it a bunch again today, and it feels good, runs just fine. ill try to get my hands on a scanner, IIRC a neighbor of mine might have a tech 2, so maybe i can rent it from him.

 

I'd say your fine than.

 

Like I said...if you can pop a scan tool on it, idle timing is 12-16* advance and 2000 rpm is 25-30* BTDC

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.
    • Our customers' safety isn't something we take lightly. To ensure you get the proper assistance for your truck's repairs, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
    • We appreciate you sharing your experience with your truck. To ensure we get you the proper assistance, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...