Jump to content

Intermediate Steering Shaft Question


Recommended Posts

Posted

I was trying to find out what the symptoms are of the infamous bad steering shafts in the silverados. I have clunking feeling in my front end that i can feel through the steering wheel. I know my pitman arm is a little worn but not severe and i already replaced the whole idler arm assembly and the rest of the front end is tight so was thinking maybe the steering shaft as ive heard alot about them on here. Plus it seems worse when going slow on say a dirt road or even a fairly smooth road for that matter but only notice at say 25 mph or so its kinda hard to explain. So i was wondering what to check for and how to address the problem if it is the culprit. Thanks guys

Posted

Sounds like you're describing what I had on my '05 Suburban. I started feeling it at around 16,000 miles so i got the steering shaft repaired under warranty. I now have 73,000 on it and the problem hasn't recurred. You're right; I seemed to notice it at slower speeds and over particularly rough sections of road.

Posted

Don’t forget to check the lower bearing at the base of the steering column. The bearing assemblies have a habit of working their way out of the column tube becoming loose and causing a similar clunk as the I-shaft.

Posted

Look for the same subject on the fullsize forumn...just posted this week.

 

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

 

I'm 6k miles into the repair I did myself for $0 and have had no problems yet. If it happens again I might buy the new part ($75) but I'm undecided at this point to be honest.

 

Here is what I did...

 

I used this link for the general instructions (http://www.gm-trucks.com/resources/how-to/2009/01/22/lubing-your-intermediate-steering-shaft-for-1999-to-2004-trucks/). It was spot on except my '02 used 15mm, not 17mm as described here but everything else was the same.

 

This cost me $0. Here's why...

My friend works for Chevy and said the grease in the shaft is most likely failing due to the heat from the manifold. This is the "theory" around GM. If you look at the bottom of the steel shaft you can see where the grease ran out from the shock then down the shaft. I can buy this theory given the physical evidence and the fact that lithium grease is not designed to hold up to those engine temps.

I knew the new grease that comes in the kit (about $12 at the dealer) is black in color (not white lithium as the original) and that it has to be able to hold up to extreme heat. I am guessing it must be (or close to) brake caliper grease.

 

I had some caliper grease in my garage so for $0 and 1 hour of my time (taking it easy) I decided to try the repair. I used the process described above in the link but used some brake caliper grease instead. I used a clamp to plug the two side holes and just kept my palm over the larger hole as I pressed the shaft down. I did this twice for good measure. Somewhat messy job but very easy. It will take you about 5 mins to remove the part, 5 mins to put it back on.

 

I am just over 6k with this fix and it seems to be working well. :)

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Any update if the new valve cover help with the oil consumption?  I have a 2014 GMC sierra and my truck is consuming a lot of oil so I’m wondering if replacing the driver side valve cover will stop some of the oil consumption. Thanks 
    • I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.
    • Our customers' safety isn't something we take lightly. To ensure you get the proper assistance for your truck's repairs, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...