Jump to content

Drivetrain upgrade


Recommended Posts

Posted

It is time to work on the drivetrain of the beast - the 2500 Avalanche has the heavy duty version of the 4L80E [RPO:MN8], also known as the 4L85E - a transmission that has been around for a long time. This version has been beefed up to mate with the 8.1L V8 and is quite capable - and should be able to do better.

 

All of this can be done to the 4L60E that is standard on the 1500 so don't feel left out, come join the fun. This also applies to the 4L65E that is in some of the 2002 models.

 

Here are some of the things to extend life, get better performance, and get off the line faster.

 

1. Mag-Hytec Get a deeper pan for the transmission, more fluid, better heat absorption. The 4x4's already have this.

 

2. Get a transmision aux cooler if you dont have one, and of course a temp gauge[cluster swap for the 1500]. GM makes one the will fit right on, Flex-a-Lite, CoolPak, B&M, etc.

 

3. Consider a larger rear differential cover Mag-Hytec to allow more fluid and easier maintenance. Towers take note - this is your point of failure.

 

And now for the fun stuff:

 

4. Get an upgraded torque converter, increase the stall speed from 1600 - 1800 RPM to 2600 RPM, beef it up with Kevlar clutches. This will reduce the drop in RPM that occurs with the stock TC to provide slow, smooth shifts for your great grandmother. Don't go above 2600 if you intend to tow.

 

Yank writeup

Another TC writeup

Precision Industries Vigalante

TCI torque converters

 

These are not cheap and the install price typically equals the cost of the converter. While you are doing the converter, it is a good time to re-program your transmission - this will firm up the shift intervals and improve the life - note, this will remove the sluggish shift that comes stock, more like snapping the clutch.

 

Transgo re-programmer <-- read this for education.

Jet Performance Power Shift

 

And for the real diehard there is always the Trans brake, this is probably overkill.

 

Well thats what I know, still learning, am sure others have better ideas and thoughts, jump in.

 

UPDATE: The drivetrain is now beefed up.

 

1. The torque converter has been changed to a 2600 stall, closer to 2800 with the Whipple chasing it. Clutches changed to Kevlar and the back plate replaced and strengthened. Similar to a Yank 2600HD+.

 

2. The transgo re-program kit has been installed and broken in - wow, this baby shifts like a stick Vette now - 1st to 2nd will scare your g/f or boss. The shifts are like "right now!".

 

It drives smoother, quicker and faster. I am impressed and delighted, cost less than I expected and exceeded my expectations.

 

Need to wire up the SCU2000 [$25 on Ebay] and still looking at the Mag-Hytec, which I think will just fit.

 

Cheers

:thumbs:

Posted

that thing has to be a beast!!!!!!  :thumbs:  :devil:  :D

 

if i'm ever near you , i have to come see it.  :cool:

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.6k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    343,007
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Brendan C
    Newest Member
    Brendan C
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 1 Anonymous, 1,194 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Thanks for posting, I'm sure it will help someone
    • New to diesel trucks. I happened to find my oil cooler leaking oil externally with only 4,000 miles on the truck. I didn’t realize this was an issue until I started researching it. Dealer is going to replace it under warranty but I’m wondering if there’s anything GM is working on to fix this issue. I’ve heard the oil filter used is the same as they use on their V6 motors and that’s what is causing the problems. Should I switch to a bigger filter or keep using the OEM recommended? 
    • So, GMCustomerService:  Judging by the Update History pictured above, is this truck missing any updates that it actually needs. If it's just for the infotainment system, the radio is working fine and no trouble with SeriusXM. and Android Auto is working fine wirelessly with my phone. Some months ago, an update notice was sent to my truck. I approved the update and it finished saying that the update was successful, but it seems that whatever that update was, it didn't actually get installed - at least not if I'm to go by the Update History shown above.   So, again, are there any updates that this truck really should have? I've checked with my dealer but they're reluctant or commit to anything and if I want them to check, they require a $200.00 fee just to check it out and then I'd have to pay for the actual update(s).    Ignorance is bliss, and if none of the updates goes to fixing any mechanical discrepancies, I'll just leave things as is.  
    • Hey everyone, I recently had an issue with my 07 2500HD GMT900. My DRL’s stay on at all times. Right front turn and right mirror turn signal indicator stay on solid at all times. By “at all times” I mean the only way to make them go off is disconnecting the battery. I tore the headlight assemblies out, tried disconnecting the harnesses to eliminate bad wiring at the harness, I unplugged the headlight switch, no change and the mirror turn signal still stayed on. My first thoughts were : Bad bulb and/or socket somewhere, under hood fuse panel bad, bcm bad, tail light or trailer wiring problem, or some random short to power in the harness.  Possibly a bad ground but unlikely. I had a big clue in the fuse panel, it had a burnt smell. I started pulling every fuse that had to do with DRL or right turn/park lamp. Nothing made the right directional turn off but pulling the DRL2 fuse made the DRL’s go out.  After studying wiring diagrams, I found that both problems had that fuse panel in common, the bcm also controls both problems but knowing the fuse panel had a burnt smell I removed and disassembled the fuse panel and found a little corrosion on the printed circuit board.  I ordered a new fuse panel from Amazon for like $260. When it arrived I installed it, and put everything back together, the problem was fixed. I figured the fuse panel needed to be replaced anyway so that was a logical place to start. Hopefully this story helps someone in the future. Regretfully I didn’t scan for codes before I did everything.
    • That stinks. I’m sitting on the side of the road right now with the same issue. Never had an issue before taking it in for the ground strap recall. Now I’m outside of warranty and they’ll probably want $200 just to diagnose what they already “fixed”. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...