Jump to content

Air Bags


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi All.

 

I have been looking for a while now and was wondering what everyone else is using for airbags. I have a 2008 2500HD, haul a 28 foot 5th wheel, I also haul a small 14 foot enclosed trailer for Scouting events several times a year that has a bit of weight in it when full.

 

I have found that the truck is bouncy on some highways and am looking at trying to smooth it out and airbags have been suggested to me by several others I know who own trucks.

 

Not looking for an onboard compresser and all that, as I have a large compresser in the garage.

 

Thoughts?? And thanks in advance for the help.

Posted

Rear Air Bags are the way to go to help with Towing......Air lift and Firestone are the ones mentioned most often,

 

On my Truck I have Air Lifts 2000lbs Rear Bags to help with Towing my Boat.....No more Rear Sag,a Better Ride and Handing with the Bags.....I've been Very pleased with them......

 

I also have the Controls...[in the Cab]....and the Compressor.....It is a Great feature,being able to adjust Bags for the Road Condition's,while driving.....

 

With your 08' being a 3/4......You can Step-up to 5000lbs bags,

 

Air Lift 5000lbs Bags,

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AIR-57275/?rtype=10

Posted

go to...

www.suicidedoors.com

or airridetech.com

 

slam specialties 2500LB or 2600LB bags are my favorite because they require less pressure.... in general the lager the bag the less pressure is required to hold the weight.

also, you dont NEED on-board air, but some trial and error will be needed to get your pressure right. and a tee fitting with a sharder valve will do the trick connecting your two bags

general bracket kits can be had from AIMindustries, suicidedoors, can do specialties... etc...

 

the best way IMO is to put the bags inside the framerail verse outside for tire clearance.

LUKE

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
Firestone Ride-Rite's are a good place to start.

 

 

Do you know what kind of wrench works best to take the joust bumpers off for Ride-Rite Installation. I am up in Alaska with most of my tools in Washington. Don't want to buy a lot of extra tools. chaplainwayne

Posted
Firestone Ride-Rite's are a good place to start.

 

 

Do you know what kind of wrench works best to take the joust bumpers off for Ride-Rite Installation. I am up in Alaska with most of my tools in Washington. Don't want to buy a lot of extra tools. chaplainwayne

 

 

The nuts are 15 mm. I don't remember which wrench I used to get them off, but a combination wrench would probably do it. (I know they are 15 mm because they are still in the "parts pile" and I went out and checked)

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Just to keep all informed.....I got the Firestone Ride-rites 5000 pounders. Arrived at the door Thurs and got them on today. Took 3 hours to get then on with a floor jack and axle stands (and with all the normal Sunday running around the house). Took it for a quick drive at 20 PSI and then at 10 PSI. Feel great. Can't wait to haul the 5th wheel now to see how it will handle. Sorry it was too late for pictures.......will try tomorrow and will post.

 

Thank you all for the input.......ended up with the valve stem in the with the gas cap.....nice look, and protected too.

Posted
Thank you all for the input.......ended up with the valve stem in the with the gas cap.....nice look, and protected too.

 

I sincerely hope you didn't connect the air lines together with a tee as suggested in a previous post. That is very dangerous because when you are loaded and go around a corner, air from the outside bags will be forced into the inboard one, making your vehicle lean even worse. During an evasive maneuver, such as avoiding something in the road the situation is far more critical. The kit comes with two lines with two valves for a reason...

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Well, I received a message from the dealer...
    • The no sound problem is the audio amplifier. The audio amp has a heatsoak issue in some circuitry which causes it to miss the wakeup handhake. If it doesn't respond within a certain time parameter, then you get no sound. I brought it in and had the software update, but after further testing the tech made the call for a new audio amplifer. The software update I belive gives more time for the amp to respond, but if the amp is defective then you can still get no audio at times. After the update it went 12 days before no sound. After doing some research, apparently the fix is a new (updated) audio amplifer, the circuitry internally has been improved to better deal with heat. I had to wait 2 1/2 weeks because at the time, it was on backorder with no eta. Well the amp came in earlier this week. I had the amp and programming work done today. After picking it up I stopped at a few places, and whenever I started my truck, the audio was on instantly, so whatever they did it appears to work because it's never had sound that quickly......Hope this helps
    • Make sure the latch mechanism is properly greased. Look at the catch for fresh marks/scratches. And see if it has moved a little, too. 
    • I have the 18" black mutilspoke wheels that came with my truck. I like them as they are very subdued and look good with the 295/70's    I am sure that the next set of wheels I get will be some after market all black wheels. Or maybe some AT4X wheels.
    • Interesting question which you partly answered in the word 'potentially'. I think that is going to be a 'point of reference' inquiry. What are the touchstones?    This will sound petty but it is the main source of end fighting in threads on this topic. Define a motors "Life". Think about the various arguments that have been entertained on these pages in that very argument.    I can only speak from my viewpoint. Engine "Life" in my world is defined by power cylinder integrity. For the majority of engines it is the bore/ring interface that quits first. Loss of seal. Oil consumption and loss of power. Most Pro motor builders would agree and there is a good deal of information on using "Leak Down" as a primary indicator of bore integrity. At home a compression test is more the thing. If we can agree on that then I think CC Jensen has done its homework and I'd find it valid.    Now by my own definition, Dizzy, wife's Ecotec 2.4 I-4 has been dead since about 80K miles. And yet we have logged over 200K miles more on it. "Life" and "Usefulness" are therefore independent.      I know a mature fella right now who has just hit 300K on a Mitsubishi 3A92 NA MPFI motor and has done compression test every 100K. It was 205 psi after break in and is now about 195 and still even. He uses shelf oil but good filters and adheres to a 3K mile OCI. He even do UOA's on each of them for the first 50K.      I also know a fleet mechanic with that same motor that gets 300 to 500 K out of them but the are oil using, wristpin sloppy, skirt slapping motors. He ran one with a piston pin so loose the piston was bouncing off the cylinder head for about 20K miles before he called TOD. Both of them claim success.         
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...