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Posted

So im looking at changing my own rear pads and rotors on my 2000 silverado. I was wondering if it is a hard task todo or if there are any specific tools I need to purchase from gm.

 

 

The reason I would like to change them is because I am getting a shudder like sound out of them when im breaking and the pads hit a certain spot. Is there a way to fix this so that i do not have to change the pads and rotors.

 

Thanks again

Brandon

Posted

no need to bleed the brakes, just take the cap on the master cylinder...use a C clamp to compress the piston...swap pads and the rotor is easily done just pull it off while the pad and caliper are off...replace with ac delco parts..i went cheap and i regret it on my rear end

Posted

No, it is not hard to do. And, like jro909 said, you don't have to bleed the brakes. Just compress the piston with a C clamp. There should be some instructional videos on youtube or something. :thumbs:

Posted

Bleeding the brakes system BEFORE your do the brake pads/shoes prevents the contaminate fluid out of the ABS module and failure. Read the FSM for info.

Posted

Thanks for the fast responses .. does anyone know if there is a way to get the high spot out of the rotor or is it best like i was saying to just replace them

Posted
Bleeding the brakes system BEFORE your do the brake pads/shoes prevents the contaminate fluid out of the ABS module and failure. Read the FSM for info.

 

+1

Posted
no need to bleed the brakes, just take the cap on the master cylinder...use a C clamp to compress the piston...swap pads and the rotor is easily done just pull it off while the pad and caliper are off...replace with ac delco parts..i went cheap and i regret it on my rear end

 

Most shops DO NOT bleed brakes to change the pads....

 

I personally bleed the brakes on EVERY TIME I CHANGE PADS OR SHOES, however. The entire reason I bleed the brakes is because I FLUSH them before I bleed them.

 

The big deal with using a C-clamp when compressing the piston in the caliper, is: when you push the piston back in you push the fluid backwards in the lines. Which causes the trash (rust flakes) backwards in the line. This can cause the trash to reach the ABS system (possibly causing it to fail).

 

Also, you should change your brake fluid ever couple years anyways. Ever seen new brake fluid pore from a bottle, it is CLEAR. Take that bottle and pore some water in it, shake it come back tomorrow it will have started turning brown. Now amplify the moisture with rust contamintates from the water that has been absorbed by the brake fluid (which absorbs water RAPIDLY and readily). That's why the fluid changes color.

 

Nice clear brake fluid is less likely to rust the lines out.... Brown fluid should be flushed and replaced with clear fluid.

 

So, I flush, compress, install new shoes or pads, and then bleed the system.

 

Jbo

Posted
no need to bleed the brakes, just take the cap on the master cylinder...use a C clamp to compress the piston...swap pads and the rotor is easily done just pull it off while the pad and caliper are off...replace with ac delco parts..i went cheap and i regret it on my rear end

 

 

Yeah, this is what I do when I change the brakes.

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