Jump to content

Replacing Spark Plugs And Wires


Recommended Posts

Posted

I am replacing the spark plugs and wires today in my Silverado (just hit 100,000 miles). I haven't changed plugs/wires before but from what I hear, it's really not that difficult. I will be using AC Delcos. Does anybody have a write up to guide me through the process for the first time?

Posted

It couldn't be simpler, just make sure you torque the spark plugs correctly(not too tight, at all). 13 lbs., I think. You don't need any torque wrench, those are for people who don't know what they're doing. Unless you're tightening head bolts, of course.

Posted

I'd recommend a set of Taylor wires too. Just do one at a time, it doesn't matter which you start or end with, make sure to add a dab of silicon grease on each boot, your Taylor wires will come with a small pack. The A/C delco's are already gaped, so just drop them in. Easy as pie. Good luck.

 

Took me about an hour (took my time) on my 2002 Sierra.

Posted

Use a set of needlenose to remove the old spark plug boots. You grab the metal casing and gently pull. Heat makes them hard to remove without the pliers.

 

Always check the gaps, never found a whole set pre-gapped correctly in 40 years.

Posted

Since you are replacing (correctly) the wires, you don't have to mess around being careful removing them. Just pull them off and if the boot tears, just use some needle nose pliers. In addition what the others said, use some anti-sieze on the plug threads (just the threads). Should run real smooth when you're done.

Posted

People say the back plug on the passenger side is hard to get to. Its not. Just put the socket on the plug..then put a short extension on the socket..then put the ratchet on the extension. Takes me no longer to get that one out than any of the others.

Posted

I just finished replacing the plugs and wires. It wasn't hard, just a pain to do. Any idea why some Silverados have Melco ignition coils and others have Delphi ones?

Posted
People say the back plug on the passenger side is hard to get to. Its not. Just put the socket on the plug..then put a short extension on the socket..then put the ratchet on the extension. Takes me no longer to get that one out than any of the others.

 

Also a 5/8's spark plug socket has a hex on the back side usually..... You can put a short socket matching that hex (i think its 11/16) on the socket works like a charm in that spot...... Also, that plug is really easy to get to on a lift...... That is usually how I get that plug.

 

But the two sockets work great..... That is my method if no lift is with in a couple feet.

 

Also to the torque person this is a two two finger or one finger tight procedure.... so pull it sung with one or two fingers on the wrench only. Carbon will take care of keeping it tight.

 

AC Delco plugs and Beldon wires.......

 

Changing plugs is straight forward..... It is quite simple...... No write up needed..... Let the engine be completely cool. I usually wait over night...... Everything you touch is cool that way and your less likely to strip the threads out of cold aluminum heads than hot heads...

 

Jbo

Posted

Like it was previously mentioned, be sure and just do one plug and wire at a time or you'll mess up and get your firing sequence messed up.

Posted
Like it was previously mentioned, be sure and just do one plug and wire at a time or you'll mess up and get your firing sequence messed up.

 

There is no distributor on these trucks. Each plug has its own coil right above it. All the wires are the same length. You can't mess it up.. :cool:

Posted
Like it was previously mentioned, be sure and just do one plug and wire at a time or you'll mess up and get your firing sequence messed up.

 

There is no distributor on these trucks. Each plug has its own coil right above it. All the wires are the same length. You can't mess it up.. :confused:

 

Thanks....didn't know that (obviously). :cool:

Posted

With distributor-less ignition I like the fact I will never have to walk out side and re-arrange plug wires for customers.... HAHA...

 

It is always funny when somebody walks in and has removed all plug wires at once and can no longer crank the vehicle..... :cool:

 

Jbo

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,677
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RobbertClaus
    Newest Member
    RobbertClaus
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 453 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • No I didn’t watch a video of a person who analyzes oil for a living explain general oil usage. For clarity I did ask my brothers one who runs our equipment business. The other who runs our old ROW business about oil usage. Nothing has changed since I retired. Their personal vehicles or work vehicles use no oil. Not enough to see on the oil checking device. Then I pondered. I like to ponder. In this extended oil changing world with oil change countdowns or lights. If engines used say a qt every 2500 miles or up to even 4000 miles. With oil changes reaching as high as 15000 miles. Normal for most people is eight to ten. Vehicles should potentially be seizing up all over the place. Especially in hilly terrain. Just how many people actually check their oil? Maybe 10 percent. Those are the people that probably change their oil early. I like to research used car listings. I have five favorite dealers I check. They all list carfax with their listing. It’s rare to see vehicles with anything but extended oil changes. Transmission service, forget about it. I’ve seen Honda and Toyota certified vehicles up to 100K miles and ten years old. With nothing but normal maintenance. Isn’t nice we all have different experiences and believe our way is the best. You certainly get backup for whatever you believe. Life would be boring otherwise.
    • Interesting rumor. Dealers near me have been tight-lipped so far, but if this reveal actually happens next week, I'm really hoping they finally give the HD a proper interior overhaul. The competition has been eating their lunch in the cabin department for a while now.
    • There are a few good takeaways in that video that pertain to this thread, certainly the possibility of the oil control rings having buildup, the fuel injectors and how clean or not that they are ending up affecting the pistons rings carbon buildup, and the fact that its normal up to a point for a given engine to use some oil, and that the oil quality that is being utilized is part of that ring clogging up issue as well.   I was talking with a neighbor yesterday who has a baby LZ0 duramax and he had bought it slightly used but it does consume some oil and he has switched over to 5W-30 Euro spec oil and in this case that never made a difference in consumption over the factory 0W-20 recommendation. He finds it uses a quart in about 3500 miles and as he goes a ways over that distance he adds oil to full and goes another 1000 miles or so and then changes oil and is typically at 40% or so left on the oil monitor at that point with his use case of quite a lot of highway miles and more limited in short run use. I don't know what other LZ0 engines are doing for oil consumption but that is what his is doing. 
    • I dont care what Lake says. Goodnight. 
    • Ok well I guess Lake disagrees with me on a few points. I call oil consumption pretty basic. Rudimentary. He calls it "really complicated." I think 1qt consumed in 3k miles is a lot. He says that's normal. In 22 minutes, he'll use his natural talent to explain oil consumption to anyone watching this video. He covers everything from obvious engine damage to how normally functioning healthy engines consume oil by design. Lake explicitly states how you drive will impact oil consumption.   Shut up and watch:    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...