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Problems Bleeding Brakes.

johneeson64

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johneeson64 Enthusiast

johneeson64

Posted
Posted

I made the mistake yesterday of bleeding the front brakes while replacing the pads, now I seem to be facing a problem with air in the lines. I went back and bleed front right then left until no air was coming through the lines but still seem to be having a mushy brake peddle. The rotor still will rotate when brakes are applied, any help is great help please!

dlewis1111 Senior Enthusiast

dlewis1111

Posted
Posted
I made the mistake yesterday of bleeding the front brakes while replacing the pads, now I seem to be facing a problem with air in the lines. I went back and bleed front right then left until no air was coming through the lines but still seem to be having a mushy brake peddle. The rotor still will rotate when brakes are applied, any help is great help please!

 

Not done it on these before, but most of the newer GM stuff requires special equipment to bleed because of the powered ABS control module.

johneeson64 Enthusiast

johneeson64

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Shouldnt have bled it in the first place but here I am anyways haha. It seems like the air just keeps coming now. Its almost as if the brake pumps prior to releasing the valve dont build up much pressure, although there is still air bubbles coming out, the liquid really is shooting out with that much pressure.

 

I made the mistake yesterday of bleeding the front brakes while replacing the pads, now I seem to be facing a problem with air in the lines. I went back and bleed front right then left until no air was coming through the lines but still seem to be having a mushy brake peddle. The rotor still will rotate when brakes are applied, any help is great help please!

 

Not done it on these before, but most of the newer GM stuff requires special equipment to bleed because of the powered ABS control module.

 

grose67 Enthusiast

grose67

Posted
Posted

I just replaced the booster on my 98 GMC. I did a normal bleed, and it didnt work. After pumping a quart of brake fluid through each line, I finally got all of the air out.

cwendel4 Enthusiast

cwendel4

Posted
Posted

I feel for ya, but there are no short cuts for this job.

Tip one, place a small piece of 2x4 under the pedal to keep from overextending the master cylinder and mushing up the seals between strokes.

#2 - it can take at least a quart of fluid to bleed the brakes once you have started, usually 2 is needed.

#3 - you now need to bleed all four corners to get all of the air out since the lines travel from the master to the ABS controller and then out to the wheels.

#4 - bleed the four corners untill there is no air coming out of each corner. bleed all of the air from each wheel before moving to the next, make sure the pedal is firm after the four corners. Then start the truck and let it run loong enough to check the pedal. if you now have a firm pedal you are golden and do not touch the bleeder screws again until you need to work on the brakes. if the pedal is not firm, start at #3 again until the pedal is firm when the engine is running.

 

Last point, make sure the bleeder screws are tight as they can be a source of slight leak which will lead to a soft pedal. IF there is brake fluid leaking from the threads after you have checked the pedal, even though you tightened the screw, it needs to be tighter and is the source of the soft pedal.

  • 1 month later...
chrisb1 Enthusiast

chrisb1

Posted
Posted

If master cylinder is mounted Front Left of engine bay, must bleed each position as follows starting with the furthest position in this order:

 

Right Rear

Left Rear

Right Front

Left Front

  • 3 months later...
ptwat Enthusiast

ptwat

Posted
Posted

 

Are you happy with it?

I have one of the motive power bleeders also. I bought one after a local shop wanted a whole lot to replace the brake fluid in my wife's minivan. At the time I had a 2001 Tahoe with ABS and replaced the brake fluid in the mini van (with ABS) and the '01 Tahoe. I did not have any problems and the product worked great. The only thing is that there are specific caps you can buy for each type of vehicle that work much easier than the strap-on universal cap that comes with it.

My question is- I did not reset anything with the ABS modules and not sure what the "procedure" is supposed to be with the ABS module and the Tech II. I had no ill effects from using this method.

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