How-To: Add Amp and Sub To Silverado With Bose System.

cghbuilder86 · December 2, 2010

I just added an amp and subwoofer to my '04 Silverado ext. cab with the Bose sound system and it sounds amazing! Exactly what I was after. I wanted to post this to maybe help others out who want to do this or are curious about it. I read a lot of mixed results about this. I read some people saying that it does not work, and them some saying it worked great so I wanted to try it for myself. I don't claim to be any kind of audio pro or anything. This was my first install. I mainly did the job myself because I am very picky about the way things are installed in my truck. There is only one car audio shop within driving distance from where I live, and the work there is ok but maybe not always as clean as it should be in my opinion. I did have to do a ton of research before I felt ready to do it, it seemed like there was not a lot of detailed info on this so I wanted to put this out there. Although, I'm sure I probably missed some stuff I tried not to skip anything and cover the details. I also tried to snap some pics along the way. Not as many as I should have but I tend to get wrapped up in what I'm doing and forget. Feel free to ask any questions.

I started by getting the PAC GM-24 interface adapter to plug into my factory wiring and give me rca outs. I plugged mine in inside the center console. You just open the lid and take a few screws out and lift out the plastic insert. Inside you will see two plugs. The factory plug with the blue clip is the one you plug the PAC into. You can also plug it in behind the headunit. But I chose to plug it in here because I have a USA Spec ipod interface plugged in behind the head unit, and there will be more room inside console. You will need to splice the blue and white remote turn on wire to the pink wire from your wiring harness. Just clip it, cut back the rubber insulation and splice the blue wire from the pac to the pink wire you just cut.

Next step run two rca plugs and the remote turn on wire down and through a little cut out place at the bottom next to the driver seat. I plugged two rca plugs into the rear outs rather than the fronts. I think people usually use the rear outs for subs.

The next thing I did was wire the amp up. I wasn't sure where the best spot to run the power cable though the wire wall would be. I guess it would be different for different people. Several people suggested I go through a big rubber grommet where a big group of wires go through. I poked a hole all the way through, then taped the wire to a coat hanger and tried to pull it through...well this almost worked except the whole rubber grommet came out. so then I couldn't pull or anything. I also had a heck of a time trying to get it back in right. I finally got it to where I am satisfied but I don't think it is in quite right. So beware, feel free to go through that grommet but try not to pull it out. Because it is heck to get back in right. Btw, I was using 4 ga. wire so it is kinda big to work with. It may be alot easier with 8 ga. Anyways I ended up drilling a hole and putting a streetwires firewall bushing in made for 4 ga. wire. Worked great. If you have a perfect spot to drill I strongly recommend using a bushing like this. The wire is easy to put through and take in or out and the lid seals it up tight. Holds the wire in place and gets it sealed good. There was a place that was clear on the inside and outside that all insulation was cutaway and it seems thats what it was designed for. But be very careful if you are not sure where to drill. After running the power cable inside the truck I popped off the plastic floor piece that runs down the side, then the plastic panel that goes around the lever to pop the hood. Then simply rout the wire from the bushing along neatly and into the channel in the floor. Once you get all the way to the back there is a panel that I couldn't take off completely. I just unscrewed the seatbelt bolt, and unsnapped a few clips in the panel. You will hear them snap but it doesn't come off, it just loosens it up. I just pushed the wire through until it came up in the back and I could reach it. It was a bit of a pain, but if you fiddle with it some you can get it around the curve.

The next thing I did was run the rca cable and the remote turn on wire under the carpet from the console back to where the amp will be. If you remove the jack you can take the carpet up part of the way in the back. Then I ran a stiff wire under the carpet from the back up to a little hole in the carpet where the driver seat mounts. After you get this wire funneled through Just tape the rca cable and remote wire and pull the through.

I grounded my amp to a bolt that the jack mounts to. I have heard some people say it is not a good spot, but I didn't want to drill or screw in the floor and the seat bolts were to big so I thought I would try it. And it has been working perfectly. It's the bolt to the rear left that the jack is mounted to. Fold the carpet back and sand the paint off to the bare metal around the screw then just find a nut that fits the bolt a secure your ground wire. Then put the carpet back down and mount the jack back on top just like it was. Now all the wiring should be done. Be sure to disconnect the ground from your battery before you connect to the amp. You've got the ground, your power cable, rca plugs, and remote turn on. The only thing left should be connecting to the battery. You can get an adapted for a side mount battery that will have a nut on the end where you can connect an "0" ring. At first I just had the wire sandwiched against the battery terminal because I didn't have the adapter. But then I ordered the adapter from crutchfield. I got the one that was a little longer and ground the tip just a hair. I just wanted to be sure that it wouldn't be too short. You can take a screw driver and pry the rubber away from the original bolt and get it out. Then just insert the adapter bolt straight through the back.

Like I said it sounds great! I've been using mine for a few weeks now. You can adjust the bass on the Bose headunit to balanced/level position or just a few points less and it will be much less strain on the speakers and takes out the excessive mid bass. With the sub taking care of the bass you can crank the speakers harder and get a better sound and less chance of any damage. I have a nice deep hard hitting bass, bright sharp trebles and smooth mids.