Jump to content

Towing Mods - Advice Please

GMCanuck

By GMCanuck
in Towing, Hauling & Hitches

Recommended Posts

GMCanuck Enthusiast

GMCanuck

Posted
Posted

Ok, so we just closed the deal on a 2011 Jayco 24' travel trailer, and I am looking for some advice. I am used to towing an 8' pop-up, which never required any add-ons, but this baby is a little different. The trailer weight - under 7000 lbs "wet" - should be okay for the truck, but I do want some add-ons to make things go easier (and safer).

 

So I thought I would ask the experts...

 

Load Equalizing Hitch:

 

  • I've looked (online) at a few, but am thinking of having the trailer dealership install the one they stock - the "Eaz-Lift" - the ones with the chains and the separate sway-control device on the side (as opposed to the ones that incorporate sway control in the bars (no chains) - i.e. "Equalizer".
  • Any thoughts?

Brake Controller:

 

 

  • Again, I've looked at a few, but have no idea which are better.
  • And are they a simple "plug and play" installation, or is there actual wiring to be installed.

 

Thanks in advance.

pwall Senior Enthusiast

pwall

Posted
Posted

Hi Dwayne.

 

In regards to the hitch, I have heard good things about the 'Equalizer' but I have no expereience with it to comment.

I have however used several of the ones you mention. You definitley will want the sway-control. On a fine day you may not, but if the wind picks up, you'll be thank-ful to have it.

 

For a brake controller, I highly recommend the Podigy brake controller from Tekonsha. They're one of the best.

Installation isn't that hard, however, you will need to conntect two wires under the hood....one for the charging circuit for the trailer (so the truck will charge the trailer battery when the truck is on), and the other, more important, is the connection for the electric brakes. WIth this wire, even if a controller, you won't have brakes.

Why GM doesn't connect these wires to begin with is a mystery.

So a search on this forum for installing the brake controller, there are many different threads on this.

music Senior Enthusiast

music

Posted
Posted

You'll probably be fine with a "chain type" WD hitch system for that size trailer. I personally used one with a 22 ft camper for a number of years, but now use a Reese Dual Cam with a 32 ft (both bumper-to-tongue lengths). The small one was maybe 5k lbs loaded, where the new one is just shy of 7k lbs loaded. The longer camper tows better with the Dual Cam than the 22 ft did with the "normal" hitch design, but that may have as much to do with the fact that the 32 ft has a higher tongue weight%. You would not regret paying the difference for the integrated sway control (Dual Cam or Equalizer type), but you may not "need" it. Personally, I'd go with the integrated system, but I think they're a better design and worth the cost.

 

edit: forgot... +1 on the Prodigy. *and* have fun camping!

oldmann Senior Enthusiast

oldmann

Posted
Posted

I have the hitch witht the non integrated sway control. Its fast to hook up and the only thing needed to "install" it is bolt a latch on the tongue. Its really straight forward if you look at a pic. As for brake controlls I've never used one over $100 and they work for me. I never tow more than 150 miles one way though. I tow a conventional 33' travel trailer with my gmt900 1500 sierra just fine. I just take it easy and let the trans do what it wants, including screaming the engine. The 5.3 loves it!

GMCanuck Enthusiast

GMCanuck

Posted
  • Author
Posted
...For a brake controller, I highly recommend the Podigy brake controller from Tekonsha. They're one of the best.

Installation isn't that hard, however, you will need to conntect two wires under the hood....one for the charging circuit for the trailer (so the truck will charge the trailer battery when the truck is on), and the other, more important, is the connection for the electric brakes. WIth this wire, even if a controller, you won't have brakes.

Why GM doesn't connect these wires to begin with is a mystery...

 

Thanks for the info.

 

Do these wiring comments still apply if the truck already has the tow package including the 7-pin connector on the bumper. I know the constant 12v power is back there (I've used it for my previous trailer). The one pin in the 7-pin is for electric brakes, but I have not looked at where the other end of this wire goes (assuming the pin is hooked up to something in the cab/engine compartment).

GMCanuck Enthusiast

GMCanuck

Posted
  • Author
Posted
The wiring is there under the dash, you have to hook a few wires up under the hood.

 

This will help you:

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?...=68309&st=0

 

Actually wait, you have a different truck than mine, so maybe it won't help you......

 

Thanks for the link, but it seems the link to the "Step by Step Instructions" is no longer working - at least not for me right now.

 

I realize my truck will likely be different, but it might be a good reference.

tanked_darren Senior Enthusiast

tanked_darren

Posted
Posted

From what I gather there IS a plug under the dash for a brake controller on your truck, and you WILL have to install a fuse somewhere.

 

On mine it has to be hardwired as they don't put plugs anymore...

pwall Senior Enthusiast

pwall

Posted
Posted

I just realized that your have an '06. So I don't think connecting the wires under the hood applies.

But you will need to install a fuse for the charging circuit, which sounds like you already have since you've used it for a previous trailer.

I don't recall if the '06 had a connector under the dash (top left hand corner), remove the black cover. There is a wire-harness you will need that you connect the brake controller to and plug it in under the dash.

 

This is where the fuse goes btw:

TrailerFuse.jpg

 

I don't have a picture of the connector block under the dash, sorry.

Mossyoakglock Senior Enthusiast

Mossyoakglock

Posted
Posted

I thought that the '06 trucks came with a harness in the glovebox for connecting a brake controller so you don't have to hardwire/splice any wires?

 

Maybe I'm thinking of a different model year.

502ci Enthusiast

502ci

Posted
Posted

On my 06 Sierra I bought a harness that plugged right into the fuse block under the dash and the wires connected color for color to my brake controller which I mounted directly below my steering wheel under the dash, the wires were plenty long to make the joints/connections.

 

I bought a basic controller (can't remember the brand without running out to garage) that was overkill, it could control 4 axles if I wanted but I have only two. Seems to work quite well. As far as the weight distribution hitch I bought a "Curt Manufacturing" one rated for 10,000 lbs. with trunnion style bars. I do not use a sway control and never had a problem. I tow roughly 8,000 lbs. fully loaded.

 

img1740je.jpg

Blue2500CC Enthusiast

Blue2500CC

Posted
Posted

Brake controller: I have a Draw Tite Activator model. It worked fine for me towing an '87 Yellowstone 25' tt. I removed it from the 2k Chevy when we bought the '10, but am looking at the Prodigy due to the "arm twisting" on here! Lol Seriously, I have read GREAT THINGS about the Prodigy.

 

Hitches: I also have a Reese Dual Cam sway control system, installed on the '87 Yellowstone (weighs about 5500lbs DRY), and I wouldn't buy anything else except MAYBE the Equal-i-zer system. As it was explained to me, a friction sway system only tries to slow the trailer from swaying once it has started. With the Dual Cam system, it is almost impossible for sway to start as long as the system is set up properly. Hooking up the Dual Cam system is just as easy (if not easier) than one with a friction sway controller since you hook up the chains just like any other Reese style hitch, but you don't have to install the sway control since it is part of the hitch system.

 

A buddy has the Equal-i-zer set up and has been very happy with that as well. I watched him hook i t up, and it seems just as easy as the Reese system.

 

Good luck!

Chris

502ci Enthusiast

502ci

Posted
Posted

That "etrailer.com" site is pretty decent I've purchased several items from them including the hidden brackets that my bars are hooked to under the V-nose.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.6k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    343,007
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Brendan C
    Newest Member
    Brendan C
    Joined

  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 856 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Joke Thread

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

    • Grumpy Bear
      The Peckish Synapse

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      You're better read than that Atlas. 😏   British science fiction writer Arthur C. Clarke formulated three adages that are known as Clarke's three laws, of which the third law – that "any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic" – is the best known and most widely cited.   Stribeck and the pivotable Hersey Number isn't voodoo nor snake oil. That part is physics. It's what marketing and bean counters do with it that is snake oil and voodoo.    Stribeck is the relationship between Hersey and the Coefficient of Friction. Within the Hersey Equation if viscosity and viscosity is 'Dependent' on.......heat.......and.......viscosity index or the temperature to viscosity slope.    Specifically Hersey is the viscosity AT THE TEMPERATURE IN THAT LOCATION FOR THAT SLOPE.   Hydrodynamic lubrication exist when the film thickness in the location is 3X the Ra roughness of the surface. This is irrespective of the hardness of the substrate. To obtain that thickness X viscosity is required for Y velocity at Z load. That's a lot of moving parts. It is also impossible to maintain in an ICE but nearly possible with a turbine under constant load.    What does that mean? Error heavy and operate light. Wear is inevitable but the rate of wear and the milage obtainable are a function of prevailing conditions and HABITS. The only penalty is viscous drag and at fractions so low as to be well worth the effort. Double the life, half the manufacturing carbon foot print. Greed is the only impediment.    The materials generated by SwRI are the RESULT not an estimation or a hypothesis.    Don't delude yourself sir, EV's have as many pitfalls as ICE's. We just don't know what they are yet and it will take longer to sort as MARKETING and GREEDY CEO's have had more time to polish the turd they are selling. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      The Peckish Synapse

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      You can always count on greed to prey on ignorance and stupidity.    Friend bought a 2019 Ford Flex and asked me about using Valvoline R&P 5W30 in it. Told him give the miles on it and the fact it wasn't yet using oil that it was a good plan. He uses a Valvoline quick change shop for his oil service.   First they tell him that isn't the oil the OEM recommends. He told them he didn't care what the OEM thought. Then they floated the, "But it will void your warranty"    His reply was it's a 2019, there is no warranty and informed them their knowledge of the law was lacking.    Then they tell him 'But it will ruin your motor"!.    Mine to ruin he says. Finally they give in and charge him 150% the semi-syn price    Point it the brainwash is so embedded that even the service industry is drunk on their swill. The public is right behind them. Echoing the same lies on every forum and media platform. If the end goal is indeed EV then I'd say that ship is about built. 
    • CamGTP
      Gas Prices

      By CamGTP · Posted

      Diesel hit $6.00 here today at the truck stop.   Payed $2.79 for E85 today too.
    • richard wysong
      Electrical Problem - solved

      By richard wysong · Posted

      Thanks for posting, I'm sure it will help someone

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...