Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

all of your old remotes will need to be reprogrammed in at the same time as the new ones. read the manual on how to program remotes, each time a new remote is to be learned it clears all remotes and you must relearn all of them.

  • 4 years later...
Posted

You essentially just get new fobs, but the accessory kit that GM sell comes with both fobs and the special code that becomes associated with your truck allowing this feature to be turned on permanently and not turned off if the body control module is reflashed. p/n 17801236 from GMpartsdirect.com currently is 128.31 and you will pay less than an hundred buck for the dealer to program it. Call the dealer with that p/n and see if they can beat/match the price.

Dam, there not $128.31 anymore!!!

Posted

Nope around $230 now, and you can only use this kit if you have RPO code AP8, if you have AU3 you need a different kit.

  • Like 1
Posted

all of your old remotes will need to be reprogrammed in at the same time as the new ones. read the manual on how to program remotes, each time a new remote is to be learned it clears all remotes and you must relearn all of them.

Not if the technician selects next available slot in the procedure when programming new FOBs.

Posted

Nope around $230 now, and you can only use this kit if you have RPO code AP8, if you have AU3 you need a different kit.

I do have the AP8 code. Looks like it would be close to $300 to get it working.

Posted

Still cheaper than having a remote car starter installed and you never know what kind of hay wire job they're going to do. Depends how desperate you are to have a warm vehicle when you slip in.

  • Like 1
Posted

Still cheaper than having a remote car starter installed and you never know what kind of hay wire job they're going to do. Depends how desperate you are to have a warm vehicle when you slip in.

 

I was thinking the same thing. Who knows what hack job they could do!!!

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Yes if yours is 2007-2013.

 

Just saw you have the year 2011 listed in your signature.

Edited by Coby7
  • Like 1
Posted

Yes if yours is 2007-2013.

 

Just saw you have the year 2011 listed in your signature.

Yup mine is a 2011 with the AP8 code

 

Thanks!!

Posted (edited)

Dealer told me around $432!!! I assume that's with ordering the kit I need.

Edited by Slugworth
Posted

If I buy the kit for $211 that's the cheapest I can find it. They will charge me $157 to reprogram it all, but won't warranty anything. So for $60 more for the kit from them I'd get a warranty on the install.

  • 3 years later...
Posted
Quote

 

I have AP3 rpo code but the remote will open the rear glass, not start the truck(2007 Suburban 1500 4wd). Any suggestions on what to look for? Have new ECM and BCM. All code issues have been corrected and cleared. Any and all help is appreciated.

Posted
13 minutes ago, 0verWatch7121 said:

I have AP3 rpo code but the remote will open the rear glass, not start the truck(2007 Suburban 1500 4wd). Any suggestions on what to look for? Have new ECM and BCM. All code issues have been corrected and cleared. Any and all help is appreciated.

I feel like you should have made a new post for this. Lol.

 

The liftgate will open, just the glass will not pop? Is this correct? 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,902
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Newest Member
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 335 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Its no wonder you've gravitated to the oil types and brands you have in later years after trying certain brands and one being a specialty oil or at least very hard to come by up here and the other would have been a commonly found oil of the era and the vastly different outcomes as a result to using the vehicles in question the same distance for an OCI . It shows what marketing hype can do without actually having the product to back up the claims and that is no different now with the insane claims that are written on the side of a bottle of oil from some of the off the shelf oils.    What has surprised me and I was already finding this out before I bought my truck with the GDI engine, that this newer fancy technology that seemingly would suggest better fuel economy/emissions with this high pressure spray of fuel is not in reality kind at all to the engine or at least the oils life. Yet they insist on claiming long OCI with this technology just like they did with the port or similar type fuel injection systems when in reality its a step back in oil life to have a GDI system.    I think the mistake your making Grumpy is that your not sending your samples to Blackstone and getting the feel good glowing report that you can run it another 1000 or more miles and then send another sample where they say run it yet another 1000 miles and on and on it goes until your sending in something that looks a lot like road tar and then they may suggest you change your oil within the next 1000 miles 😆
    • I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 
    • In the 80's 90's I'd run Honda's 7,500 miles between changes using Red Line HP 5W20 and do it for hundreds of thousands of miles with issues. Back in the day it was an SAE 20 with the HTHS of a SAE 30 and SN add load. It was also very polar. Oxidation VOA was over 120. Besides those motors were SPFI and lean burn tech. I could have likely run it longer but never did.    We had a Toyota bought new I ran on Pennzoil's latest and greatest synthetic of the day with "Penthane". A made up word for a very low dose of PAO. Tried 7,500 mile OCI's in that Group III/VI chemistry and the rings tapped out at 90K. Rocker box wasn't as bad as the one Punch put up but it wasn't good either. Also a SPFI motor.    I'm around 3,750 across the board on these GDI monsters and the oil it tapped out by then usually on TBN/TAN crossover and color. Red Line HP Euro.    The AMSOIL SS brochures tell you to follow the OEM values for the service class but that it can be run up to 25K if monitored. I can't imagine what motor could go that distance and not tap out. I've never owned one.    Yes, I know. Lot's of people do. I'm just not going to be one of them. 
    • I knew a guy in the early 80's that bought a new Monte Carlo and ran it a 100,000 miles without ever changing the filter or the oil. Just kept adding. It looked like that inside.     
    • Good evening. I was lucky enough to get passed down to me a 2007 GMC LBZ that was my great uncle's. While the underside and rockers are more or less gone I feel like with time I can restore it to working order since it only has 110,000 miles and he put nearly every option he could get without getting the new body style since he did not trust DEF. So far I have done everything I can think of but when I put the key into the ignition nothing happens. I put 2 brand new batteries in it. Cleaned the terminals. Check all the fuses and relays and they all pass with my multimeter. I know I'm missing something that I just cant think of. The only odd thing is the OBD2 port works which makes me think its not the mega fuse. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...