Brand New 1500, Issues Already

wavery · September 1, 2011

If the dealership Service Dept offers to have a tech or Service Manager drive the vehicle home, you are getting a GREAT deal. Trust me...... these people don't give a hang about driving a customer's vehicle. I'm sure that most would rather drive their own vehicle home. If they drive it home (which I have done literally hundreds of times for customers), they are doing it because they want to get some real driving time in the vehicle and experience the same conditions that the customer may be experiencing.

These dealerships don't have the personnel or time to be putting 20-30 miles on every customers vehicle (during business hours) that has a problem. You're lucky if he can put 5 miles on it and you can't tell much in 5 miles.

When they drive the vehicle home they are giving you their PERSONAL time as a PERSONAL favor.... off the clock. They don't get paid for doing that. You get their undivided attention and expertise for that period of time. You can't BUY that kind of service. To make the comment that somehow they might be taking advantage of a person by using that person's vehicle for their own personal use is down right ignorant and insulting to the profession.

RockySierra · September 1, 2011

EXACTLY.

jblakeney · September 1, 2011

If the dealership Service Dept offers to have a tech or Service Manager drive the vehicle home, you are getting a GREAT deal. Trust me...... these people don't give a hang about driving a customer's vehicle. I'm sure that most would rather drive their own vehicle home. If they drive it home (which I have done literally hundreds of times for customers), they are doing it because they want to get some real driving time in the vehicle and experience the same conditions that the customer may be experiencing.

These dealerships don't have the personnel or time to be putting 20-30 miles on every customers vehicle (during business hours) that has a problem. You're lucky if he can put 5 miles on it and you can't tell much in 5 miles.

When they drive the vehicle home they are giving you their PERSONAL time as a PERSONAL favor.... off the clock. They don't get paid for doing that. You get their undivided attention and expertise for that period of time. You can't BUY that kind of service. To make the comment that somehow they might be taking advantage of a person by using that person's vehicle for their own personal use is down right ignorant and insulting to the profession.

I personally could careless how many miles they put on it trying to find a problem. The tech told me every time he had drove it during business hours it performed perfect. I responded its not in that time range of time. Usually around 5:30 - 6:30 am. He said he usually left his house that time of the morning and I asked if he would drive it for a week back and forth and as his personal vehicle. He did, and it resulted in him finding the problem. He was willing and I was more than happy. Heck I wouldn't have even asked for the gas. Nor did I drive a car off the lot for that time. Just grabbed a set t something with an antique tag from the key drawer.

It was above and beyond his job description. But he had seen the truck with the same complaint several times. He was there best mechanic and he retired shortly after that. With over 40 years in the same dealership doing the same thing.

And this was the second dealer. First one told me they couldn't find it and told me to take it to that dealership and get blah to look at it.

Jbo

txnole · September 1, 2011

I went through this with my previous '09 Silverado. They tried to balance the tires several times and then ordered new tires. The vibration was still there. Finally, they checked the driveshaft and it was slightly bent(damaged while in transport they said) so they ordered a new drive shaft and the vibration was gone.

Madoco · September 2, 2011

Anyone know a quick method to test the drive shaft for straightness?

pm26 · September 2, 2011

Anyone know a quick method to test the drive shaft for straightness?

Get a portable dial indicator gauge with a magnetic base. Jack up the truck by the rear differential and place jack stands under the rear axle. Place the transmission in neutral, climb under the truck and use the dial indicator in various locations while spinning the driveshaft by hand. That should give you an idea how straight it is. It is a good idea to have a helper to rotate the rear wheel which will then turn the driveshaft.

If you do not want to bother with a dial indicator, you can use a piece of 2X4 and hold it close to the driveshaft in various locations while you are spinning it. This should give you an idea if it is bent somewhere.

WARNING: Do not, under any circumstances, start the engine, place it in gear with the rear wheels off the ground and climb under the truck and touch the driveshaft while it is turning. It is risky and you can get hurt.

Madoco · September 2, 2011

Anyone know a quick method to test the drive shaft for straightness?

Get a portable dial indicator gauge with a magnetic base. Jack up the truck by the rear differential and place jack stands under the rear axle. Place the transmission in neutral, climb under the truck and use the dial indicator in various locations while spinning the driveshaft by hand. That should give you an idea how straight it is. It is a good idea to have a helper to rotate the rear wheel which will then turn the driveshaft.

If you do not want to bother iwth a dial indicator, you cna use a piece of 2X4 and hold it close to the driveshaft in various locations while you are spinning it. This should give you an idea if it is bent somewhere.

WARNING: Do not, under any circumstances, start the engine, place it in gear with the rear wheels of the ground and climb under the truck and touch the driveshaft while it is turning. It is risky and you can get hurt.

PM26 - Perfect. Thanks much.

Madoco · September 7, 2011

OP - Wondering how the new tires worked?

Rolling · September 7, 2011

Im amazed that as often as I lurk here I have not seen this thread.

I too have a 2011 Crew Cab LT All American package...5.3, 6speed 4x4 etc etc.

And it shakes at 60-70mph. Has since the day I bought it. I have replaced wheels and tires from another unit, (working for the dealership has some nice perks) have road forced brand new tires, and since this truck was new I have replaced all 4 tires three times. Currently I am wearing a set of BFG Rugged Terrains and its the best it has been, but still shakes.

Its very odd, doesent feel like tire vibration, or flat spotting. Tires are all well withing spec for balance and road force.

I also sent the drive shaft out for balance, it checked out perfectly. No ujoint issues, no shaft or yoke issues.

The only bulletin I have found that reasonably sounds like the condition my truck is exhibiting is a phenomenon called 'Frame Beaming'

I am very interested to see what fixed your truck, please post up or PM me so I have a little more ammo for my GM rep.

Thanks!

pm26 · September 7, 2011

Im amazed that as often as I lurk here I have not seen this thread.

I too have a 2011 Crew Cab LT All American package...5.3, 6speed 4x4 etc etc.

And it shakes at 60-70mph. Has since the day I bought it. I have replaced wheels and tires from another unit, (working for the dealership has some nice perks) have road forced brand new tires, and since this truck was new I have replaced all 4 tires three times. Currently I am wearing a set of BFG Rugged Terrains and its the best it has been, but still shakes.

Its very odd, doesent feel like tire vibration, or flat spotting. Tires are all well withing spec for balance and road force.

I also sent the drive shaft out for balance, it checked out perfectly. No ujoint issues, no shaft or yoke issues.

The only bulletin I have found that reasonably sounds like the condition my truck is exhibiting is a phenomenon called 'Frame Beaming'

I am very interested to see what fixed your truck, please post up or PM me so I have a little more ammo for my GM rep.

Thanks!

I symphatize with your plight. It is very annoying to have a new vehicle that shows this behavior. What you refer as"frame beaming" should be less pronounced on the GMT900 trucks because they have a fully boxed in frame in the front. I still would suspect the tires. I have had all kinds of vibration problems on my car even with Michelin MXVs which turned out to be complete junk. Several of them actually had a loose belt. I never had issues with Korean Kumho brand tires, or Michelin LTX M/S tires. Unfortunately, many OEM tires are complete trash.

If you believe that the frame beaming is the cause of your vibration problems, try placing at least 300 lbs of sand bags or something similar in your bed and see if the ride improves. It should if frame beaming is the culprit.

jjsonoma · September 7, 2011

I was just curious if there has been any resolution to the OPs issue. I have a 2011 Silverado XFE with the Chrome Clad 20" wheels and have experienced a vibration since new. I special ordered the truck and really wish I had driven it before I took delivery because I wouldn't have taken it (but the ship has sailed on that one).

I've had it in 3 times (2 different dealers). The vehicle currently has less than 2600 miles on it. Each time they stated that this is how the truck is supposed to feel with this wheel and tire combo. On the most recent visit I took the tech for a ride to point out the Vibration. He states that he feels it, agrees it shouldn't be there. The response I get after leaving it for the day is as follows (paraphrase):

We test drove another similar vehicle and the same "vibration" was present. We logged the vibration at 70 mph with EVA and almost identical readings were logged. Because the readings were the same, this is a "Normal" condition. After consulting GM Technical Service, they state that the vibration readings are within spec and they authorize no further repair or remedy for the situation.

Other than re-balancing (RFB) the tires once more, they refuse to do anything else because the truck is "OK" according to GM.

Now let me be clear this, I understand that a truck with 20" wheels will handle and drive different than one with 18s or 17s, and I'm fine with that. I just want a truck that doesn't shake. And to that point I don't want one that does. I'm currently considering a Lemon Law Claim, as this will certainly impact the resale value of the vehicle and may become a safety issue moving forward. This is my 4th new GM vehicle in 11 years and may very well be my last. What a pain...

Has anyone else experienced any issues with these wheels or similar vibration issues?? Any advice/feedback is welcome.

pm26 · September 7, 2011

I was just curious if there has been any resolution to the OPs issue. I have a 2011 Silverado XFE with the Chrome Clad 20" wheels and have experienced a vibration since new. I special ordered the truck and really wish I had driven it before I took delivery because I wouldn't have taken it (but the ship has sailed on that one).

I've had it in 3 times (2 different dealers). The vehicle currently has less than 2600 miles on it. Each time they stated that this is how the truck is supposed to feel with this wheel and tire combo. On the most recent visit I took the tech for a ride to point out the Vibration. He states that he feels it, agrees it shouldn't be there. The response I get after leaving it for the day is as follows (paraphrase):

We test drove another similar vehicle and the same "vibration" was present. We logged the vibration at 70 mph with EVA and almost identical readings were logged. Because the readings were the same, this is a "Normal" condition. After consulting GM Technical Service, they state that the vibration readings are within spec and they authorize no further repair or remedy for the situation.

Other than re-balancing (RFB) the tires once more, they refuse to do anything else because the truck is "OK" according to GM.

Now let me be clear this, I understand that a truck with 20" wheels will handle and drive different than one with 18s or 17s, and I'm fine with that. I just want a truck that doesn't shake. And to that point I don't want one that does. I'm currently considering a Lemon Law Claim, as this will certainly impact the resale value of the vehicle and may become a safety issue moving forward. This is my 4th new GM vehicle in 11 years and may very well be my last. What a pain...

Has anyone else experienced any issues with these wheels or similar vibration issues?? Any advice/feedback is welcome.

I will give you the same feedback I have already given:

Those large wheels and tires (20" plus) are not worth it. They are being offered by all car and truck manufacturers because large wheels have become a meaningless fad. There is nothing worse than a cheap large wheel/cheap tire combo. Consider these facts:

Car manufacturers will purchase the cheapest wheels and tires they can get in large quantities. Large rims/tires are more difficult to balance properly than smaller sizes, so the probability of improperly balanced wheel from the factory goes up.

Because of their lower sidewall height, these large tires will ride harsher than small diameter ones with taller sidewalls. Taller sidewall has the benefit of dampening minor vibrations, which are amplified on large diameter, low sidewall height tire.

In order to get a good ride with large wheels/tires you need both good quality rims and tires and first class workmanship as far as mounting and balancing them goes. Before you pursue any legal action, consider investing in high quality tires and have a good independent shop that specializes in custom wheels mount and balance them. Or, get a set of barely used OEM 17" wheel/tires and try those (eBay is a good source).

Personally I avoid large wheel/tires like the plague. I would not take them if they paid me extra to have them. What is the point? Harsher ride and much higher tire prices? Less selection in larger sizes? I can put up with wheels up to 18" in diameter on a passenger car if the tires are high quality and the car has enough power and sophisticated enough suspension to take advantage of high speed rated, low profile tires. Aything bigger than that is a waste of money in my opnion.

Some 30 years ago the largest diameter rims offered on American cars and truck were 15" wheels. Even exotic imports like Lamborghinis came with 15 inch factory rims. My 1984 Mercedes 500 SEL sedan came with 14" factory wheels. Yet it would cruise at 125 MPH without any vibration. And I owned a 1978 Ford Fiesta with factory 12" wheels. It rode just fine up to 100 MPH which was pretty much its top speed . How did we ever get around driving on such small rims?

So in summary, it is not the size of wheels/tires that counts, but rather the overall quality.

jblakeney · September 7, 2011

My 1949 F-1 had 16's from the factory...... but they were bias plies..... And you need not worry about a smooth ride.... But that is from the suspension not the tires.

This rim fad will fade or better tires will come to the market....... Personally I want some sidewall on the tire just in case I miss cut a turn. That way the sidewall gets abused and not the rim.

Jbo

jjsonoma · September 7, 2011

I was just curious if there has been any resolution to the OPs issue. I have a 2011 Silverado XFE with the Chrome Clad 20" wheels and have experienced a vibration since new. I special ordered the truck and really wish I had driven it before I took delivery because I wouldn't have taken it (but the ship has sailed on that one).

I've had it in 3 times (2 different dealers). The vehicle currently has less than 2600 miles on it. Each time they stated that this is how the truck is supposed to feel with this wheel and tire combo. On the most recent visit I took the tech for a ride to point out the Vibration. He states that he feels it, agrees it shouldn't be there. The response I get after leaving it for the day is as follows (paraphrase):

We test drove another similar vehicle and the same "vibration" was present. We logged the vibration at 70 mph with EVA and almost identical readings were logged. Because the readings were the same, this is a "Normal" condition. After consulting GM Technical Service, they state that the vibration readings are within spec and they authorize no further repair or remedy for the situation.

Other than re-balancing (RFB) the tires once more, they refuse to do anything else because the truck is "OK" according to GM.

Now let me be clear this, I understand that a truck with 20" wheels will handle and drive different than one with 18s or 17s, and I'm fine with that. I just want a truck that doesn't shake. And to that point I don't want one that does. I'm currently considering a Lemon Law Claim, as this will certainly impact the resale value of the vehicle and may become a safety issue moving forward. This is my 4th new GM vehicle in 11 years and may very well be my last. What a pain...

Has anyone else experienced any issues with these wheels or similar vibration issues?? Any advice/feedback is welcome.

I will give you the same feedback I have already given:

Those large wheels and tires (20" plus) are not worth it. They are being offered by all car and truck manufacturers because large wheels have become a meaningless fad. There is nothing worse than a cheap large wheel/cheap tire combo. Consider these facts:

Car manufacturers will purchase the cheapest wheels and tires they can get in large quantities. Large rims/tires are more difficult to balance properly than smaller sizes, so the probability of improperly balanced wheel from the factory goes up.

Because of their lower sidewall height, these large tires will ride harsher than small diameter ones with taller sidewalls. Taller sidewall has the benefit of dampening minor vibrations, which are amplified on large diameter, low sidewall height tire.

In order to get a good ride with large wheels/tires you need both good quality rims and tires and first class workmanship as far as mounting and balancing them goes. Before you pursue any legal action, consider investing in high quality tires and have a good independent shop that specializes in custom wheels mount and balance them. Or, get a set of barely used OEM 17" wheel/tires and try those (eBay is a good source).

Personally I avoid large wheel/tires like the plague. I would not take them if they paid me extra to have them. What is the point? Harsher ride and much higher tire prices? Less selection in larger sizes? I can put up with wheels up to 18" in diameter on a passenger car if the tires are high quality and the car has enough power and sophisticated enough suspension to take advantage of high speed rated, low profile tires. Aything bigger than that is a waste of money in my opnion.

Some 30 years ago the largest diameter rims offered on American cars and truck were 15" wheels. Even exotic imports like Lamborghinis came with 15 inch factory rims. My 1984 Mercedes 500 SEL sedan came with 14" factory wheels. Yet it would cruise at 125 MPH without any vibration. And I owned a 1978 Ford Fiesta with factory 12" wheels. It rode just fine up to 100 MPH which was pretty much its top speed . How did we ever get around driving on such small rims?

So in summary, it is not the size of wheels/tires that counts, but rather the overall quality.

So you are saying, "It is what, it is..."??? The only thing would be to spend more to buy better tires???

No offense, but I have a hard time buying that the rims and tires are the problem due to the fact they can't be or are difficult to balance. At this point if they are perfectly balanced and there is still a vibration, it stands to reason that it may or must be coming from a different component. The only other thing I can think of is Drive Shaft or perhaps alignment.

Again my issue is not with ride quality or handling, but with the Vibration... As I said above, I get that it will handle different with 20's rather than 18's. I just want to get rid of the vibration, or harmonic shake.

I guess my bigger question is; has anyone been told that this is a normal condition and given no other resolution to the issue??

canadiantowman · September 7, 2011

I was just curious if there has been any resolution to the OPs issue. I have a 2011 Silverado XFE with the Chrome Clad 20" wheels and have experienced a vibration since new. I special ordered the truck and really wish I had driven it before I took delivery because I wouldn't have taken it (but the ship has sailed on that one).

I've had it in 3 times (2 different dealers). The vehicle currently has less than 2600 miles on it. Each time they stated that this is how the truck is supposed to feel with this wheel and tire combo. On the most recent visit I took the tech for a ride to point out the Vibration. He states that he feels it, agrees it shouldn't be there. The response I get after leaving it for the day is as follows (paraphrase):

We test drove another similar vehicle and the same "vibration" was present. We logged the vibration at 70 mph with EVA and almost identical readings were logged. Because the readings were the same, this is a "Normal" condition. After consulting GM Technical Service, they state that the vibration readings are within spec and they authorize no further repair or remedy for the situation.

Other than re-balancing (RFB) the tires once more, they refuse to do anything else because the truck is "OK" according to GM.

Now let me be clear this, I understand that a truck with 20" wheels will handle and drive different than one with 18s or 17s, and I'm fine with that. I just want a truck that doesn't shake. And to that point I don't want one that does. I'm currently considering a Lemon Law Claim, as this will certainly impact the resale value of the vehicle and may become a safety issue moving forward. This is my 4th new GM vehicle in 11 years and may very well be my last. What a pain...

Has anyone else experienced any issues with these wheels or similar vibration issues?? Any advice/feedback is welcome.

I wonder if GM would be willing to put this in there ad's for the trucks, you can buy one but if you don't like the vibration you have to live with it. B.S. I picked up my new truck in March and drove it down to Florida in April and had no problems till after I got back. Took it to the dealer and they told me they had replaced the drive-shaft but I still have this problem too. It seems to me that GM just doesn't care anymore. I know my dealer doesn't give a sh@t.