Jump to content

Plug Wires


Recommended Posts

Posted

Put on a set of Taylor Thundervolt 8.2 wires tonight and just thought I'd share the resistance measurements for those who've ever wondered. Both wires are 9" in length. The factory wires ranged from 1167-1193 ohms. The Taylor wires were 35.8 - 37.1 ohms.

 

GM factory plug wire:

IMG_0775.jpg

 

Taylor Thundervolt 8.2mm:

IMG_0774.jpg

Posted

EEither you don't know Much about electrical things are you miss typed cause your meter is reading on factory wire 1.170k ohms, that k means that its not even an ohm, its like practically reading zero. So being that their is no resistance in the wire, your stock wires should be letting the current flow incredibly fast, as in no resistance. And your new wires are holding back. Not sure on how that plays well in firing the spark plug, but I know in some comps on the f-16, no resistance is a very good thing.

Posted

No, I think it says the stock are 1.170k ohms as in 1170 ohms whereas the aftermarkets are only 35.8 ohms. Huge difference, but performance wise not worth a dime. Now if it was a analog gauge with different ohm settings....

Posted

forgot to mention i also put in a fresh set of Autolite DP plugs. the wires really aren't worth much on the dyno, but they get an A+ for ignition efficiency. better ignition efficiency leads to better burn efficiency. and since my fuel economy is normally high 11s to low 12s, i'll take all the help i can get :( . plus these wires, when used with an otherwise healthy coil setup, will usually give an improvement in throttle response. not a snap your head back improvement, but enough to be noticeable. by 'usually' i mean this is my 4th set of these wires and it's been noticable in all 4 vehicles. the old wires had been in there for ~119k miles (119,000...not .119 miles :P ) and the crusty plugs around 45k. the best part of all is the price.

 

Autozone:

Bosch - $71.99 + tax

Duralast - $49.99 + tax

MSD - $118.99 + tax

 

Taylor wires dropped on my doorstep - $55 :D

 

kind of a no brainer.

 

 

i think i'll save displaying my electrical knowledge for another thread...lol. suffice to say i can think of very few applications where minimal resistance is not preferred.

Posted

No one said minimal resistance wasn't good... :D But I will since you bring it up, minimal resistance is not generally best on a regular street driven computer controlled vehicle. You have to make your trade-offs between rfi and max spark.

Posted

Taylors are spiral wound...No RFI to worry about for computer controlled vehicles. I only run Taylor, the fit is worth the $60 when you have long tube headers.

Posted

The "REAL" plug wires (true racing wires) do cause alot of noise like you mention. To the OP, here is a good link to explain what we are discussing here:

 

Spark plug wire FAQ

 

Hey thanks for the kind words on the truck...its for sale! LOL!

Posted
forgot to mention i also put in a fresh set of Autolite DP plugs. the wires really aren't worth much on the dyno, but they get an A+ for ignition efficiency. better ignition efficiency leads to better burn efficiency. and since my fuel economy is normally high 11s to low 12s, i'll take all the help i can get :) . plus these wires, when used with an otherwise healthy coil setup, will usually give an improvement in throttle response. not a snap your head back improvement, but enough to be noticeable. by 'usually' i mean this is my 4th set of these wires and it's been noticable in all 4 vehicles. the old wires had been in there for ~119k miles (119,000...not .119 miles :lol: ) and the crusty plugs around 45k. the best part of all is the price.

 

Autozone:

Bosch - $71.99 + tax

Duralast - $49.99 + tax

MSD - $118.99 + tax

 

Taylor wires dropped on my doorstep - $55 :cheers:

 

kind of a no brainer.

 

 

i think i'll save displaying my electrical knowledge for another thread...lol. suffice to say i can think of very few applications where minimal resistance is not preferred.

 

 

Ide like to see some hard MPG numbers on these if you dont mind. My truck is only a couple thousand miles from the 100K maintenance routine and I am always looking for something that will actually help performance and gas mileage. Most of that crap will either hurt your engine, or just drain your wallet.

Posted

So whats the general census around here on changing the wires at 100K. Is it a necessity, or just replace as they wear out?

Posted

I'd take one off and read it with an ohm meter then go from there because plug wire life is gonna vary vehicle to vehicle. I believe I could've easily got 200k out of my stockers.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
EEither you don't know Much about electrical things are you miss typed cause your meter is reading on factory wire 1.170k ohms, that k means that its not even an ohm, its like practically reading zero. So being that their is no resistance in the wire, your stock wires should be letting the current flow incredibly fast, as in no resistance. And your new wires are holding back. Not sure on how that plays well in firing the spark plug, but I know in some comps on the f-16, no resistance is a very good thing.

 

 

The k indicates a multiplier of 1000 from the base reading of an ohm.

 

1G ohm - 1,000,000,000 ohm

1M ohm - 1,000,000 ohm

1k ohm - 1,000 ohm

1 ohm - 1 ohm

1m ohm - .001 ohm

1u ohm - .000001 ohm

1n ohm - .000000001 ohm

 

Just for anyone's information, not trying to be a smart ass

 

Cheers, Brendan

Posted
So whats the general census around here on changing the wires at 100K. Is it a necessity, or just replace as they wear out?

as a rule of thumb I change wires at the 100,000 mile mark. the wires will deteriorate and start getting cracks like any other rubber item. The will eventually start arcing through those cracks and it's not worth the trouble. Plus a lot of the time when removing sparkplug wires for the first time in 100,000 miles to change the sparkplugs the wires break so it's easier to just be prepared and replace them at that time.

 

as stated above, the longevity will vary from one vehicle to another. This is just my general rule.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Certainly as the new model year comes along and that may mean a new refreshed model such as for example the upcoming 2027 half tons and lets just say for arguments sake that current year trucks are in decent supply on the new lot and its not guaranteed but some years and depending on the current economic state that buyers may turn their nose up at the so called old stock/old model and want the "new new" shiny object. When those stars align and in this case GM corporate puts out a great discount on what is becoming the old stock as well as dealers willing to deal to get that inventory off the lot, that's when it would be easier to deal as long as, as it was pointed out that your willing to take what is there for choice of inventory in an area that makes sense to you shopping wise. What you don't get deals on or typically so is the incoming new toy in the showroom, that is where if they don't have much inventory of the new model year and customers that are willing to pay to beat the Joneses and will pay top dollar for it just because. Also sometimes there is that vehicle that few are interested in for whatever reason in how its equipped that becomes two years old and they really want to get rid of that vehicle. New in all cases and warranty the same typically although plan on changing that battery out on the older used one, lot rot of batteries with todays vehicles that draw power constantly.    I too was just too leery about buying a newer used truck as I know how all too many seem to treat their vehicle maintenance wise and up here in Canada there wasn't the used market to choose from like one would assume because of all the bull crap going on with under a year old trucks and under certain mileage being bought up by USA brokers and being hauled/driven south to be sold in the sates so the used price was too demanding here. Also a certain insurance coverage I wanted was only available on a new truck at time of purchase and not even a so called new demo on a lot could have that no depreciation loss coverage. I made the best deal I could on a truck I personally chose for options on an order so they knew it was most likely sold before it ever hit their lot so no lot interest charges for the dealer to swallow. I also wanted a new vehicle so that I could plaster the crap out of it underneath with fluid film and see if that will help slow down the rust issues we have here due to the crap they spread on the winter roads. 
    • Sure...but there is no "update" to be had.  GM has not issued any support for this.  
    • You mean it's not supported yet in the trucks. The hardware is certainly there. The software just needs updated.
    • Is the carbon pro bed still a thing? I figured it was one of those things that quietly disappeared from low take rate.   I thought Chevrolet tried adding it too...   Minimal.   Despite all the 'all new' versions since GMT-800, lots of parts still swap from generation to generation.   I've seen a bunch of GMT-800s with a K2 rear bumper on them. 
    • We still haven't seen the GMC's. I expect the Chevys to more orr less match the Fords, but with no all aluminum body and simple SBC, be significantly more affordable. I'm hoping GMC offers the 6.7 engine and lays it all out on the line. My main question? More premium GMC's already use composite leads out back. Does Chevy get any? What other frame/suspension changes?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...