Jump to content

Truxxx 3"/1" Leveling Kit On '03 Sierra 1500 4wd-tire Op


Recommended Posts

Posted

I recently installed a Truxxx 3"/1" leveling kit on my '03 Sierra 1500 4wd. Also installed new Rancho s5000 shocks all around.

 

I'm currently running 265/75/16 tires(same ones I was running before the kit and shock install), and definitely want to go bigger. What i'm wondering is just how big can/should I go? Trying to decide between 285s and 315s. Found a couple good used sets of each in the local classifieds at good prices. Will the 315s add too much stress on the stock driveline, as i've heard? One tire size is'nt worth a costly replacement.

 

Thanks for any help.

Posted

33" tire max IMO. The 285/75/16 would be approximately 33x11, max you should be able to go and may need to do a little trimming at full lock. Anything larger than that will be to large for the leveling kit you have installed.

Posted

Yeah, the 33s seem to be the best option. I looked at the Truxxx site and that's the size they say the particular lift I have will allow (16"-26" rims, stock offset).

 

Couldnt find the kit on the site at first. Seems they changed the name of it. Now its the "1999-2007 Classic 4x4 Pickup Lift Kit". :) Whatever.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

IMO, even on the stock wheels I like 305's. I know what everyone is thinking about too wide but I have seen alot that look really good. If I had the older body style thats what I would go with.

Posted

i have the 3'' truxx and i put on 33x11.50 tires. and they rubbed hard. i did a pretty big trim on the bumper they just rubber on the mud flap and back of the fender on turns. i put on a 3 '' body too and they still rub the odd time in hit a bump while turning slightly.

 

400 for the kit i believe and i don't know what the install was but it took them all day since my keys were rusted in the truck,

  • 6 months later...
Posted

How do you like the truxxxx leveling kit? About how much did you pay for the lift? How was it on the install?

 

 

Wow, long time since i've been on here. haha

 

As for the kit, (if you still care lol) its decent. Looks great(get tons of comments on it), but rides pretty rough! I paid a bit over $400 at Kal-Tire. They wanted around $600 more to install it, so I got a mechanic friend of mine to do it for $150. He said it was'nt bad at all, just had trouble with one of my keys being rusted in. That and the U bolts that came with the kit ended up being too short after installing the kit's rear blocks. lol Cost me another $50 to have a set made at a local machine shop.

 

My 33/12/15s ended up rubbing hard when turning, just like the guy above said happened. Took the bumper valence and mud flaps off, and the tires fit. Have a 1.5 inch body lift thats going on the truck soon. After that, things should be more than fine.

 

Overall though, If I was doing it again, i'd probably save up for a 4 inch suspension lift. Still might. After all this time riding on the truxx kit, i'd prolly have one right now had I waited.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,775
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    sportfish17
    Newest Member
    sportfish17
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 2 Anonymous, 2,009 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • That is a fair point, and I think an OBD-first proof is probably the right next step. I agree that the value is not the hardware box by itself. The marketable part would be the software: always-on capture, baseline learning, event reduction, system-specific reports, and alerts. Also agreed that if an OBD device is always plugged in and has local storage, it should not miss the event in the same way that a scanner plugged in after the fact would. The only thing I would not want to assume yet is that an ELM327-class device gives all the late-GM data needed at the rate needed. Standard OBD live data, DTCs, freeze frame, Mode 6, VIN, and calibration information are definitely the right starting point. GDS2 also proves that a lot of useful ECM data can be viewed through the DLC without needing a DTC first. The question I need to test is whether the data needed for a useful GM V8 event report is actually available through the DLC, and at a useful sample rate: - misfire counts / roughness by cylinder - AFM/DFM state - oil pressure and oil temperature - fuel trims - voltage / reset context - U-codes and communication events - calibration / software information - whether these are standard PIDs, enhanced DIDs, Mode 6 data, GDS2-only data, or not available So I think the right benchmark is: 1. Build the OBD-only version first. 2. Keep it plugged in and logging locally. 3. Compare it against GDS2 / freeze frame / HP Tuners or another higher-end logger. 4. Measure which parameters are available and at what update rate. 5. Only justify ECM-side hardware if it captures useful evidence the OBD version cannot. So you may be right: the consumer product might simply be an always-plugged-in OBD event recorder with much better reporting. A question for you: when you say ELM327 devices can already deliver all the data needed, do you mean generic OBD Mode 01 data only, or GM enhanced data as well? For a useful GM V8 report, would generic OBD data be enough, or would you expect the tool to include enhanced items like misfire by cylinder, AFM/DFM state, oil pressure/oil temp, U-codes, and calibration information?
    • 87 down as low as $5.14 here... winning!
    • Progress... sort of.   Intake is disassembled, spider is out, fuel lines removed. Used a torch on the stripped screw with the lower intake off, much easier when I've got the intake sitting on my workbench, I made it talk. Walked right out with a pair of vice grips once it was nice and toasty hot.   New parts are piling up on my service cart waiting to be installed. Distributor, temperature sensor, new gaskets, fuel line kit, themostat, water neck.   My new pickle is I don't want to spend $600 on a replacement spider. I'm not sure IT is bad. I'm probably splitting hairs. Or it's $300 to send mine away and another 3 weeks of the truck just sitting. I have half a mind to assemble everything with the old spider to see if I can get away with just replacing the fuel pressure regulator to be safe. The obvious issue was the gushing high pressure fuel line which will be replaced. Getting to the spider really isn't that hard, and now I know what I'm doing , swapping it would be a breeze should it absolutely need one. Stupid, or smart?   The part that gives me pause is replacing the distributor. Well, it's already out. And I didn't mark it, whoopsie! Engine was at TDC when I removed it, I know that, so upon correct reinstall the metal tip on the rotor should point to the TDC mark on the distributor because that's where it was pointing on the old distributor. Worst case I'm a tooth off and have to re-stab it.   But then, what? I assume the truck will start. It doesn't appear the timing can be set. Here's the problem: These distributors can't be rotated but a degree or two, by design. What I read is Cam ****** needs to be -2 to +2 degrees, ideally at 0 (and checked/set above 1000 rpm). There should be enough wiggle to get that properly set, but checking the reported value is another potential issue. My Actron 9185 scanner says it supports enhanced GM PIDs and Cam ****** is one of them but it's unclear that I'll be able to correctly see it over OBD 1.5. I can see why people end up junking these things with life left in them. They're an absolute nightmare with tweener-year diagnostics/electronics and unobtanium parts.   Fingers crossed it starts and idles nicely. There can be hope, right? I'ma buy a lottery ticket the same day just in case.   Next steps..DO IT. I have not installed an intake before so I've been reading and watching a lot. Some say NO RTV except on china walls, some say DO RTV on water ports but not fuel/air intake. 1/4 or 3/8 bead on China walls? I think my strategy will be, obviously, RTV china walls with overlap on the gasket corners. Chapstick-style RTV the water ports. Leave intake ports dry. The only set of intake gaskets I could find locally are Edelbrock performance gaskets (uh...for an asthmatic 190hp V6? LOL) so we'll see how they do.   #NoToolLeftBehind. It took an hour, but my recovery mission for my deep 10mm socket was successful. It had rolled down the bellhousing and wedged itself between what I think are the fuel lines? I couldn't see it at all, but with a junk antenna I had laying around, I blindly went poking/sweeping for it, heard it clink, raised the truck, and caught a sliver glimpse of chrome with a flashlight way up there in Narnia. I had pushed it farther along the lines holding it captive, but within access of severely improvised tools, poking and cursing at it to finally knock it free to where I could get a fingertip on it to bring it home.    Not much to see.      
    • Thats crazy considering im right next door (Indiana)
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...