Jump to content

Console Change Organizer


Recommended Posts

Posted

Not sure what you mean by "uplevel bench seat" as there is only one bench seat, available in either cloth or leather.

However, that coinholder looks EXACTLY like mine which is GM part number 12381882 and ran me $39.64. It mounts in the front left corner of the center section of the 40-20-40 bench seat.

Posted

When I looked through an LS, the middle seat folded down but I don't recall seeing the under-seat storage area or the flip-up console lid. I was told that there's an "uplevel" bench seat that adds those features to the middle. Dunno, might just have been fed a load of BS. LOL. Thanks for the info, though.

Posted

No. They were right. There are two different bench seats. The seats themselves are the same but one has a covered storage area in the flip down armrest and locking storage in the seat, where the other just has a hole in the armrest with no lid and no storage in the seat.

  • 3 months later...
Posted

Also, the one on ebay from seller 'bunnybeantree' and noted as "GM BUICK OLDS PONTIAC CHEVY CADILLAC GMC CONSOLE CHANGE COIN HOLDER STYLE #1" fits. It does not have a number visible but looks to be the same as the one posted by bluArrow above.

(Moderators, please remove my post if you have any prohibitions again ebay references. I do not want to run afoul of the forum rules - thanks!)

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had manager to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  
    • PS: Here's pic of the 2014 wheels I'd like to run when it's not winter. Stuck my finger around new wheel caliper setup. Very little clearance. I suspect these won't fit, but won't know for sure till I try.   Edit: And my first mod. Stubby antenna from the old truck.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...