Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I noticed today that my Eonon view of the back up camera is opposite to the one in my rear view mirror. Are my wires backwards, or does it operate this way. Like hooking to my trailer, the more I turned towards the hitch, the further away I was getting in the Eonon screen

  • 4 weeks later...
  • Replies 38
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted

Any ideas why my camera view on my Eonon radio is opposite of my RVM camera, left is right and right is left???

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Anybody? Could it be the difference in hooking to a video RCA input vs. some other input?

  • 1 month later...
Posted

I just got a CS-GM1210 and am about to install it myself. Apologies if this questions has already been asked/answered but I'm wondering what gauge your 3m T-Taps are for connecting the RCA cable to the white and blue wires.

  • 8 months later...
Posted (edited)

I am trying to do this same thing on a 2011 Yukon that has factory Reverse Camera in the Rear View Mirror. I would like to tap into existing cable an run to an after market head unit via RCA, just like the referenced links in this thread. The issue is that I am unable to locate the module in left A pillar, at the bottom edge of the dash just above the left kick panel. My Factory head unit was NOT a Navigation system, not sure if that matters or not. It came with factory rear view camera that displays in the rear view mirror. My goal here is to tap into existing rear view camera wiring in hopefully a convenient and easy location :) and run to the new head units reverse camera input via RCA. I would like to keep out put on rear view mirror and also have it run to my head units display at the same time, that way if I put factory system back in the vehicle it still functions as it was. Currently my new head unit works great, with exception of rear view camera. The head unit even tries to display the camera input and is triggered when vehicle is put in reverse. Of course since there is no input, it is just a black screen the entire time the vehicle is in reverse. All I am really looking for is some guidance on locating the existing camera's wiring and how to splice into. I do NOT see a harness like the examples of the 2011 Silverado in the left A Pillar. Am I missing something? Any help would be much appreciated! Look forward to a response soon! Thanks in advance.

Edited by bdpennington
  • 3 months later...
Posted

So it looks like this old topic is still going. I have a 2008 Silverado with factory NAV but no factory cam. I bought a NAV from a 2011 with cam. I have found the input pins for the RCA but I'd like to know if there is also a power out to the cam from the NAV unit? I know the cam power can just be connected to the reverse lights but most backup cams stay on for a few seconds after the vehicle is taken out of reverse. I assume this extended power on would be handled by the NAV unit itself or the BCM.

  • 7 months later...
Posted

I am trying to do this same thing on a 2011 Yukon that has factory Reverse Camera in the Rear View Mirror. I would like to tap into existing cable an run to an after market head unit via RCA, just like the referenced links in this thread. The issue is that I am unable to locate the module in left A pillar, at the bottom edge of the dash just above the left kick panel. My Factory head unit was NOT a Navigation system, not sure if that matters or not. It came with factory rear view camera that displays in the rear view mirror. My goal here is to tap into existing rear view camera wiring in hopefully a convenient and easy location :) and run to the new head units reverse camera input via RCA. I would like to keep out put on rear view mirror and also have it run to my head units display at the same time, that way if I put factory system back in the vehicle it still functions as it was. Currently my new head unit works great, with exception of rear view camera. The head unit even tries to display the camera input and is triggered when vehicle is put in reverse. Of course since there is no input, it is just a black screen the entire time the vehicle is in reverse. All I am really looking for is some guidance on locating the existing camera's wiring and how to splice into. I do NOT see a harness like the examples of the 2011 Silverado in the left A Pillar. Am I missing something? Any help would be much appreciated! Look forward to a response soon! Thanks in advance.

 

 

2014 Yukon XL here and am in the same boat. CANNOT locate the module in the kick panel! Anyone have a guess as to where it would be on these Yukons? Connect directly at the mirror/monitor and run RCA the entire way? Or trace the wiring by removing the A-pillar cover?

 

If I'm lucky enough to find the module, I found this harness to avoid having to even t-tap the wires!

https://camera-source.com/accessories/wiring-kits/2009-2013-silverado-sierra-split-mirror-and-navi-display-without-power-rear-window.html

  • 1 year later...
Posted

Hi Guys, I know this is an old thread, but I was in the same boat as a lot of you, am installing a Kenwood head unit in my 2009 Sierra Denali. Could not find the black connector  with the blue and white wires anywhere, after much reading and researching, I saw Walt’s reply in this thread and looked close at his schematics, I had the GR/Blu and Gry/ OR wires up at the mirror, and traced them back down by the distribution block to the left of the brake pedal, they go into a white connector, not inside the block , but to the left of it. I tapped into the wires there, , and it works great .just wanted to share. Thanks.

 

 

  • 4 years later...
Posted

I have a 2011 Tahoe and was wanting to tap into my rear view camera with my aftermarket head unit and was hoping to find this harness at the same location near the left A pillar but it's not there. Does anyone know where I can find these wires to tap into? Thanks in advance.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • tl; dr I've now reached the 6th floor of hell. I'm chronicling my journey for my morning readers.   Pulling the top of the intake apart was moderately easy but it involved a lot of parts, connections, and minutae. I was preparing for the new fuel lines to arrive ("nut and bolt kit" it's called). The fuel line connections are notched and held in place by the manifold and a metal plate with a T27 screw.   It's on the back of the intake, under the firewall, with little clearance, and two hard metal fuel lines in the way. I was using Franken-tools (weird combinations of 1/4 inch ratchet with/without an extension, with a bit holder for my T27) to get in there. One of my sockets and bits fell off and has yet to emerge on the floor. I lost a second setup and that's when I almost started throwing tools. But that was the point at which I had gotten traction on the Torx head, and it promptly stripped. No more traction.   I started humming "1-877-kars-4-kids" because I was about at that point. You know what? I'm $1500 into this thing and I can make it disappear just as quickly. This isn't fun anymore. I had spent a lot of time already "tidying" around the engine bay: Fixing all the "someone's been here before!" BS. The truck has been exclusively dealer- and shop- serviced and I'm reminded of why I never let other people work on my cars unless absolutely necessary.   Speaking of dealer service. This truck has a 1" stack of records going back to 1995. I put them all in an excel spreadsheet, date/mileage/description.   The CPI spider has been replaced 4 times in 85k miles. The EGR? Another 4. Multiple, multiple O2 sensors. One Cat. 4? Sets of plugs and wires, and I swear half the stack is diagnosis paperwork for "misfire, runs rough, extended crank, dies at stoplights".   GM was producing some proper crap back then. And it was still well within the era of brittle/crappy plastic. (Windows 95 was released the same month this truck was sold new, we HAD the technology!!)   There (was) a plastic shroud around the evaporator core and HVAC fan in the engine bay. I noticed a chunk of it missing so I poked at it some more and it literally shattered. Touched it some more and pieces were crumbling off. Had a good laugh. Clearly whatever plastic garbage they were using had broken down over 30 years and was literally turning to dust. That was a good half hour of using a shop vac to remove the rest of it.   Back to it.   I was going to give up for the evening but then decided I'm already level 10 pissed off at the stripped screw: G* D* it, give me my tools back -- and my JOY. We'll do this the hard way: The whole intake is coming off.   Blazer won Round II. After finally finding and accessing the 12 intake bolts and using a pry bar to unseat it from the heads, it popped loose in an explosion of gunk and grime raining down into open ports. Awesome.   6 times I reminded myself: Be careful of the temperature sender on the front of the intake.   YEAH, I forgot again and snapped it clean off in the removal. Add another $20 to the ever-growing list of new parts this thing is consuming.   The shame is, long before removing the intake, I had changed the oil in prep for Tuesday's momentous fuel line replacement that was going to be the magic fix and I'd have a running Blazer to tool around in this next weekend. The intake removal, including raining gunk, also gushed dirty coolant all over the valley. Of course it did. Welp, there goes another $35.   I now need an intake gasket set, bolt set, coolant temp sensor, another 5 quarts of oil, some RTV. Don't worry, I've already got 3 new jugs of Dexcool and a thermostat waiting. I'll fill it with clean water first to get it running, dump it, and then add the Dex later on in case... well, let's not go there. I'm only tearing this down once, next time the truck is going on Marketplace for FREE.   Oh, and I'm going to need vacuum hose for all the stupid connections placed at the rear of the engine which have since disintegrated. Come on, GM....tell me you don't do that anymore?   Oh, and the ears on the distributor where the cap screws down are both cracked. I mean, why not put a new distributor in it too. You get a distributor, YOU get a distributor, Everyone gets a new distributor!   This truck isn't out of the woods yet...I'm already questioning how much more time I'm willing to sink in.
    • NewDude, thank you for the suggestions!    I did follow up and the dealer indicates he has an open CX case and is working with DPAC (Dealer Parts Assistance Center).   Per the dealer, GM has had a quality spill and is not providing an update for when a replacement engine will be available.
    • That's interesting.   There was a factory wire-hole in the back, top of the rear cab, which had a wire for the third brakelight assembly running through it, as well as several holes (10 of them I believe) for all of the studs coming off of the 3rd brakelight assembly itself.   I sealed all of those holes with RTV/silicone as well.   I found it kind of odd, that none of those holes, were sealed with any kind of sealant by the factory - if there was any there, it wasn't very much.   That said, I've been out in heavy rain and have ran the truck through high-pressure car-washes a few times now and she has been 100% water-tight to this point.   I feel very confident in the repair, we'll see how it holds up.
    • I bought a used 2022 2500hd with 6.6L in February. In March took a 2200 mile trip towing our 6500 lb trailer. Changed the oil day before leaving and when we were arriving at our 1st destination, low oil light came on (roughly 1000 miles) it was 2 qts low. Now it towed like a dream, no issue there, and we did go through the mountains of TN, but still, 2 qts! Luckily I did purchase an extended warranty. Brought it to the dealership in April, oil change and consumption test. Brought it back last week, 1300 miles, no towing, and no oil showing on the dipstick. GM is reccomending a new engine (cheaper than them rebuilding), we'll see if the warranty company comes through. 
    • T3's and Ibuprofen. I do have a cryotherapy unit (ice machine) and a lift chair that will allow me to raise my legs above my heart.  There are topicals that I can use once the wound is fully healed.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...