Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

We've had multiple questions regarding the connection of the factory rear camera to aftermarket navi headunits, particularly the Advent OGM-1 navi, so we decided to document the absolute easiest way to make this connection in the 2011 Silverado equipped with the camera in the tailgate and display in the mirror. This MAY be correct for 2010 & 2012 vehicles as well, but always check first - I can't be responsible if you THINK it's right and make your connections without checking first...

 

The factory wiring for the mirror runs up the left A pillar, and has a nice convenient connection at the bottom edge of the dash just above the left kick panel:

 

gm_camera1.JPG

 

If you peel back the wrap on the harness, you'll expose a white and blue wire in the black plug:

 

gm_camera2.JPG

 

The white wire is camera video positive and the blue wire is camera video negative:

 

gm_camera3.JPG

 

To connect to your navi's rear camera input, just take a six foot RCA cable, cut off one end and strip the insulation exposing the shield and center conductor. The shield will connect to the blue wire, the center conductor will connect to the white wire. We suggest soldering these for the best and most reliable connection, but 3M T-Taps (shown) will work fine too. Stay away from the cheesy kind of wire taps that have the flap that folds over and locks the connection. We use 3M style T-Taps (model 351 if anyone's interested), and don't have any issues as long as you use the right gauge. If you don't use these, either solder your connections (preferred) or strip the factory wire and connect bare wire to bare wire and tape it up.

 

ADVENT OGM-1 NOTES: Currently, since the backup camera screen on the deck comes on as soon as the input senses video, when the vehicle goes into reverse, the camera input will light up and stay on as long as the camera stays on. This may be up to 15 seconds AFTER the vehicle is taken out of reverse. If you want more control over this process, you can either rewire the rear camera's power source or wait until the next firmware update comes out (soon I'm told, and it's DEFINITELY the preferred method). If you want to rewire the camera power source, here's the schematic for the camera circuit - use at your own risk:

 

11_Silverado_camera-reverse_circuit.gif

 

 

 

Good luck!

 

Walt

www.adcmobile.com

  • 1 month later...
  • Replies 38
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted

I wanted to add a couple photos illustrating the quality that you can expect out of the factory camera on the NBS GM trucks when you wire them to the Advent navi (or any other navi or A/V deck for that matter) by showing closeup shots of how the factory tailgate camera looks on both the factory mirror display and the Advent navi and compared to an aftermarket camera that costs a fraction of the factory's price.

 

Although the factory camera is passable when viewed on the mirror, it looks like ass when you view it on any high resolution panel. It's kind of surprising that GM could actually source a camera with such a low quality image, but if you only have to show it on a 3.5" screen, I guess you don't have to worry too much about image quality.

 

However, when you wire this camera to the Advent, the flaws in image quality immediately become apparent: the overall resolution is pretty terrible and color fidelity is terrible as well. The resolution is so poor that it almost makes it look out of focus.

 

Does it show obstacles? Of course, but depending on what you're counting on the camera display to show you in fine detail, you may not be able to see it well because it will be so fuzzy.

 

Bottom line is that if I had the factory camera already installed, it's highly doubtful I would pull it out for an aftermarket camera. BUT, if I was buying a new truck and had the ability to delete the rear camera in favor of an aftermarket unit, I'd do it in a heartbeat...

 

Here are a few photos showing what you can expect in each scenario - factory mirror display, factory camera wired to an Advent, and aftermarket camera wired to an Advent:

 

A closeup of the factory camera displayed on the factory mirror:

 

IMAG0520-1.jpg

 

Here's the same camera displayed on the Advent rear camera screen:

 

IMAG0521-1.jpg

 

Here's one of our aftermarket cameras installed (still taken from HD video):

 

cs_gm1_camera.jpg

Posted

Walt, can you diable the warning bar at the bottom of the screen? It seems to block the hitch??

 

 

We're talking to Advent about it (in fact, just sent an email today reiterating our preference!) - it's definitely on the wishlist for future firmware updates...

Posted

Cool.

 

How easy would it be for me to add a nicer camera in the factory location for the ogm1 that i have coming, and then make the stock cam a second to mount on the back of my salter? That one would go in the mirror and be removed in spring......

Posted

Cool.

 

How easy would it be for me to add a nicer camera in the factory location for the ogm1 that i have coming, and then make the stock cam a second to mount on the back of my salter? That one would go in the mirror and be removed in spring......

 

 

The aftermarket camera is definitely better and can be bolted in and wired to the OGM-1 in a half hour. With the current "10-28-11" firmware on the OGM-1, the camera only needs an accessory power and ground connection (do yourself a favor and extend the the power and ground leads for the camera into the cab and connect at the junction block to the left of the brake pedal (fourth port down on the left - ACC power is bottom left, pin 8 - ground is upper right pin #1 in this port). The video output on the aftermarket camera is standard RCA, which plugs into the Advent.

 

You'll have to fabricate a harness for the factory camera for the salter by cutting the harness on the CAMERA side of the weatherproof plug under the truck, then extending all four wires that go to the factory camera as long as they need to be. You'll then be able to unplug the camera when you're not using it.

 

Depending on your truck, you can use these schematics to verify your wires:

 

11_Silverado_camera1.gif

 

11_Silverado_camera2.gif

 

11_Silverado_camera3.gif

  • 2 months later...
Posted

We've had multiple questions regarding the connection of the factory rear camera to aftermarket navi headunits, particularly the Advent OGM-1 navi, so we decided to document the absolute easiest way to make this connection in the 2011 Silverado equipped with the camera in the tailgate and display in the mirror. This MAY be correct for 2010 & 2012 vehicles as well, but always check first - I can't be responsible if you THINK it's right and make your connections without checking first...

 

The factory wiring for the mirror runs up the left A pillar, and has a nice convenient connection at the bottom edge of the dash just above the left kick panel:

 

 

 

If you peel back the wrap on the harness, you'll expose a white and blue wire in the black plug:

 

gm_camera2.JPG

 

The white wire is camera video positive and the blue wire is camera video negative:

 

 

 

To connect to your navi's rear camera input, just take a six foot RCA cable, cut off one end and strip the insulation exposing the shield and center conductor. The shield will connect to the blue wire, the center conductor will connect to the white wire. We suggest soldering these for the best and most reliable connection, but 3M T-Taps (shown) will work fine too. Stay away from the cheesy kind of wire taps that have the flap that folds over and locks the connection. We use 3M style T-Taps (model 351 if anyone's interested), and don't have any issues as long as you use the right gauge. If you don't use these, either solder your connections (preferred) or strip the factory wire and connect bare wire to bare wire and tape it up.

 

ADVENT OGM-1 NOTES: Currently, since the backup camera screen on the deck comes on as soon as the input senses video, when the vehicle goes into reverse, the camera input will light up and stay on as long as the camera stays on. This may be up to 15 seconds AFTER the vehicle is taken out of reverse. If you want more control over this process, you can either rewire the rear camera's power source or wait until the next firmware update comes out (soon I'm told, and it's DEFINITELY the preferred method). If you want to rewire the camera power source, here's the schematic for the camera circuit - use at your own risk:

 

 

 

 

 

Good luck!

 

Walt

www.adcmobile.com

 

 

Sorry to dig up an old thread but can any one tell me what the other three wires in this set plug are? I have the male end under my dash and am trying to hook up a backup camera and rear view mirror. I have looked at the upfitter guide but can't seem to figure it out. The truck is a 2011 with the YE9 package. Thanks in advance for any help.

 

Ben

  • 1 month later...
Posted

just traded my 11 for a 12 with factory mirror backup cam. I'm just going to tap into the factory mirror for my OGM1. Is there any way to take over the camera while in forward motion in the OGM1? I would like to be able to watch my boat from the camera...

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Everyone refers to the factory rearview camera in the mirror.

Can someone verify if the wiring is the same for the factory camera that is in the factory navi unit.

I replaced the factory unit with the OGM-1 (much better) but would like to also connect my factory camera into the unit.

 

I have a 2011 GMC pickup.

Posted

Everyone refers to the factory rearview camera in the mirror.

Can someone verify if the wiring is the same for the factory camera that is in the factory navi unit.

I replaced the factory unit with the OGM-1 (much better) but would like to also connect my factory camera into the unit.

 

I have a 2011 GMC pickup.

 

 

This is for a 2010 Tahoe, but the Sierra should be the same - this show both navi and mirror wiring:

 

tahoe_camera1.jpg

  • 1 year later...
Posted

I know this is a older post but it has already shed some light on my project but also makes me curious about a couple of other things. I have a 2012 Sierra that has the OEM camera and video in the mirror. I am getting my pieces together to install a new head unit. I would to grab the video from my factory camera and run into my new head unit. If I grab the white and blue wire at the kickpanel and run direct to my new head unit, will I lose the video in the rear view mirror? That is what I am hoping..would like to only have video in the new head unit. Also if I run the blue and white to the new head unit what powers up the camera when in reverse? Thanks for any help!

Posted

I know this is a older post but it has already shed some light on my project but also makes me curious about a couple of other things. I have a 2012 Sierra that has the OEM camera and video in the mirror. I am getting my pieces together to install a new head unit. I would to grab the video from my factory camera and run into my new head unit. If I grab the white and blue wire at the kickpanel and run direct to my new head unit, will I lose the video in the rear view mirror? That is what I am hoping..would like to only have video in the new head unit. Also if I run the blue and white to the new head unit what powers up the camera when in reverse? Thanks for any help!

 

You will not lose video in the mirror if you only tap into those wires, and the video signal is strong enough to support both monitors w/o any problems.

 

If for some reason you wanted to kill the mirror monitor, just cut (or de-pin) the blue wire wire in pin 9:

 

mirror_monitor_wiring.jpg

 

The most reliable place to grab the reverse trigger is at the junction block (under big black cover to the left of the brake pedal) - it's the dark blue wire in the upper right pin in the upper right plug (gray).

  • 1 month later...
Posted

This thread is very helpful but I have one additional question and I've looked everywhere to get a clear answer. I have an 08 Tahoe with factory nav and referse camera. How do I give the oem camera power to turn on while I am driving? Since I have factory nav now it isn't displayed in the rear view mirror so I'm not sure if I can tap into the wire mentioned above.

 

I'm trying to avoid having to run a new wire all the way from the oem camera up to the dash to give it constant power. Any help is greatly appreciated!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • If one can't be found, a good automotive upholstery shop should be able to replace/sew in a new panel where the damage is on the old cover. It might not be the cheapest option..
    • Does your dealer charge you for the tire rotation on top of the oil change price ?. I haven't had any service work done at my dealer yet other than when I brought it back soon after owning it to have the front end aligned to correct the steering wheel being off center a bit. Oh they called me at least twice hounding me to bring it in for an oil change and pushing a 300.00 package of oil change and tire rotation and whatever other quick simplistic checks they would do. Only going off of what a friend gets charged for his half ton for the basic oil change and its the same amount of oil as the L8T holds, it was about 150.00. Once one buys a set of tires from most shops these days or so I believe, they will do free tire rotations and some do free tire balancing as well as free tire repairs.    Certainly doing a tire rotation is no five minute job, and definitely not at home but because I run a set of winter tires on their own wheels, I swap them at home and its a one tire at a time deal because of the tire season swap although I jack up the rear and do it and drop it back down and then raise the front and do them and coordinate the tire rotation into that process for both sets of tires. I am using a floor jack though and if I need to raise both ends at once I use a couple sets of jack stands to have all four tires off the ground. I use either an air impact or battery impact and have electric impact as well so no shortage there of easy methods to spin the lug nuts, and then retorquing the lug nuts. None of it goes quick though but my wages are cheap though ... zero. I live an hour out of town, its easier just to do things like that myself than waste a bunch of time in town and having to make an appointment and probably a special trip and sit there at the tire shop waiting for them to get my vehicle in and get it done and not screw something up in the process. 
    • I do have the 8 speed.  Interestingly enough, after driving my truck for the past 2 days now, I have not had the clunking issue at all!  I am beginning to think it may have been suspension/leaf spring related, and somehow when the shop put my truck on the lift to do their initial inspection, it relieved some built up tension/pressure that was causing my problem.  I swear it felt I was a bull rider on a bucking bull the way the truck would almost rock back and forth slightly before the big thud/clunk when coming to a stop.  I am hoping I got lucky here and it's gone for good.
    • Bring it to discount tire. They do free rotations even if you didn’t buy your tires there. I didn’t believe it until I tried and they did. You can tip the employee if you would like 
    • Best part of this video is how it resets expectations. Wonderfully done piece. It also made clear a few points I've made from day one. Detergent oils DO NOT KEEP A MOTOR CLEAN at the recommended or longer change intervals. They just get dirty slower than a non-detergent oil and there isn't spits difference between them on this point if they carry the DEXOS license. Great thing about the license that gets missed is it assures CONFORMITY even it that means a low bar.    One thing he did not talk about that I paused on an magnified was the condition of the oil ring separator. Besides a stuck ring a plugged separator and land drain back is huge when it comes control. We see in short order improvement in control IF that is the problem.    Another item I took exception to and he did not make plain was the condition of the timing chest and under valve cover having something to do with indicating piston cleanliness. Schaeffer's Oil makes that same omission in their million mile Ford video. I'm guessing he has never torn down a Red Line HP, AMSOIL SS motor that has been on that diet from the get. What he showed in the video was a good deal of varnish. Something totally absent in Peppers 165K cover off look. I smiled because he did his at the same milage.    He also makes the mistake of assuming oil temperatures in the pan are the temperature all over the motor even though he makes note of the piston being the hottest part of the engine. that baffled me a bit.    I can tell you from personal experience and witnessing teardowns of family motors that even oils of the 1960's would keep them squeaky clean when OCI's were 1500 to 2000 miles without exception. At 3K and above you get what he experienced and the longer you leave it the quicker to gets to the junkyard.    I think his is missing a opportunity not tearing it down again when he's done killing it. Time would be his only cost. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...