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2004 Tahoe Front Differential


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Posted

Hey All,

 

Bought my first Tahoe back in October. I had a Duramax before. Noticed when using "Auto" 4WD it was louder, sounded like I had mud boggers on it. When put into 4Hi it was the same, go back to 2WD and it was silent.

 

Read up on the bearings in the differential. I drained the fluid and it was grey with flakes and the drain plug was awful.

 

Pulled the diff out Tuesday and took it to a local Bearing and Axle place. He rebuilt it and I picked up back up last night.

 

Put it in tonight, what a PITA without removing the steering, but I got it done. Filled it up, and headed out. Went about a mile, put truck into "Auto" and it sounded the same as before. Tried 4Hi, same, then I put it back into 2WD and now the thing sounds worse in 2WD that it ever did in 4WD. What the heck happened? Guy is not going to be back until Tuesday, I paid $534 to have it done and that was with me pulling it and reinstalling it. The place is 20 miles away. I don't think it will hold up to a 20 mile drive. I went 2 miles and it sounded worse than ever especially in 2WD now, where as it was silent before.

 

I am highly upset. I refuse to take it out again. He is going to get the whole truck this time. Might have to have it towed there, and I am not paying another penny to have it fixed!

Posted

Unfortunately it could be your transfer case giving way. Its the only other part I can think of that would specific to 4wd. You might try a slow speed drive by & listen to see where noise is coming from.

Posted

I would agree, if it hadn't been fine up until I dropped the axle an had it rebuilt. It sat in the garage two days while I was waiting on the differental back and now it sounds like crap. I think there is something in the diff wrong again. He said it all looked okay except one of the pinion bearings.

 

I noticed the diff is "tighter" than before, another words, the front driveshaft is a lot harder to turn by hand than it was before.

 

Will let everyone know what I find out.

Posted

+1 on above. If you are gonna spend $500 plus on repair, whats another 100 to have them diagnose it? Then its their ass if it isn't fixed right.

Posted

unfortunatly people do this self diag crap then come here or "just answer" web site ,you should read what people do before they go there!!!!!

 

like 8.1 says ,the cost of a phuk up is the cost of diagnoses,

 

the hustle and bustle of life make people not think to much

 

live and learn

Posted

Thanks for the usefull answers. I know what the problem was/is. What I was asking was what could he have damaged while in there to make it now loud in 2WD. If you want to leave something worth reading and possibly helpful, be my guest. If you just want to give your two cents, **** off!

 

Exactly what I was thinking Rob.

 

 

Says the guy who just told me it was my transfer case. Talk about self diagnosis. :nopity:

Posted

Well I did make a suggestion as per my initial response & it was dismissed just as quickly. So feel free to continue your efforts to repairing your truck as you see fit & I will continue my own way. Good luck & happy reading!

Posted

Thanks for the usefull answers. I know what the problem was/is. What I was asking was what could he have damaged while in there to make it now loud in 2WD. I don't need a bunch of comments from assholes on the internet who get a hard on from thinking they are tough shit. If you want to leave something worth reading and possibly helpful, be my guest. If you just want to give your two cents, **** off!

 

Exactly what I was thinking Rob.

 

 

Says the guy who just told me it was my transfer case. Talk about self diagnosis. :nopity:

 

 

another newbi beakin off and being rather vulgar ,i think ryan should skid your butt outa here,,,,,

 

short answer tough guy is to take it back,or take it to a DEALER,i was a transmission/driveline specialist ,i lived and breathed GM powertrains ,,,,kid stuff,,,its the internet ,we cant fix it ,take it back and then you can leave this site and go curse somewhere else okay?? tyvm for playing

Posted

Thanks for the advice. Like mentioned in the first post I took the differential out and the truck was fine up until that point....other than being noisy in 4WD. If it were bearings or CV shafts it would have been loud all the time. Or at least louder than usual.

 

The problem ended up being when the shop put it all back together whoever finished up the job did not tighten down the pinion nut all the way and the pinion was moving around inside the case....or so I was told. It took them less than an hour to fix it and he said it was definatly his fault. He wrote up a disclaimer incase something happens down the road because of it.

 

I appreciate all your comments and somewhat helpful suggestions. My only advice to you all who quickly jumped on and assumed I had no mechanical skills... Chill out. Not everyone who comes to a forum for advice is a soccer dad who has never turned a wrench. I obviously have some mechanical skills.... I removed the diff and reinstalled it. I knew something was wrong inside. I was asking what else it could have been in the diff, not to be bombarded with people assuming I was a total moron and I should have had it diagnosed.

 

Also, the dealer quoted "between $800-$1900", yeah no thanks. They also wanted to replace my whole cluster just because a $5 stepper motor went bad. A few minutes with a soldering iron took care of that.

Posted

we dont know your abilities justin,we are not there ,,sorry if we / I offended you,,i see it all the time thats all,,people replace this ,,that,, and other stuff,then come here,it is frustrating for me and that is all

 

glad ya got it

Posted

I am a moderator on a Ranger forum... I know where you all were coming from. Just felt it was a little harsh... But then again, so was my reply. So I apologize as well.

Posted

I will also apologize if I offended you. Glad you got it repaired. At least you found a mechanic willing to admit fault in initial repair work & to take care of it.

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