Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 2006 silverado 1500HD LT. As of last night, my driver seat is dead. None of the power seat buttons works. I can't move the seat as well as the heated seat is not working either. All of these features are working on the passenger side. I checked all of the connections on the bottom of the seat and nothing seems loose. I also looked in the manual to see which fuses may be the problem. It looks like there is a fuse that controls the heated seats/Ignition and then a circuit breaker that controls both of the power seats. I have yet to find a fuse that controls JUST the driver seat. So does anyone have any ideas on what else to check or any clues as to why just the driver seat is not working??

Posted

So I went ahead and pulled the circuit breaker for several minutes, and put another new 10A fuse in for the power seat and now everything seems to be working......weird. The other fuse that was in there was a good fuse, and it is weird that pulling the circuit breaker for several minutes would fix it, because there are only 2 prongs on the breaker and it controls both seats. I never had any trouble with the passenger seat. Do I have an electrical Gremlin??!!!

Posted

Your driver's motor was jammed somehow and needed a reset by removing and reapplying power. How often do you actually move it? The only time I move my Malibu's power seat is to clean under it.

Posted

Your driver's motor was jammed somehow and needed a reset by removing and reapplying power. How often do you actually move it? The only time I move my Malibu's power seat is to clean under it.

 

 

I rarely ever move the seat or adjust it. I have been using the heated seats daily...I live in Alaska. But they appear to be 2 complete different circuits because the power to the seat is the 30A circuit breaker that controls both seats and then the heated seats are included in the ignition with a 10A fuse. So I just think it is odd that they both go out at the same time and that it was only the driver side and not the passenger.

 

I do have one motor that has stopped worrking, it is the front tilt motor on the bottom cushion. It stopped working a while back.

Posted

I'm make some (educated) assumptions here, but it would explain what you found:

*the fuse you are referring to, the 10a one: I can promise that 10a is not enough current to power a seat heater, most likely that fuse only powers the control circuit to the seat heater. It carries small amounts of power to activate a relay under the seat that turns on the seat heater

*the breaker you pulled: it supplies all of the power to the seat motors and seat heaters, that's why it's 30a. ALSO, an automotive circuit breaker is designed to "trip" and stay in that state until power is removed, then it will reset itself and continue to function as long as power isn't overdrawn. This is unlike your house breakers that you go and turn off then back on, there is no switch on the automotive version.

 

Some basic electrical to further explain:

Switches rarely carry the full load of the item it is switching, it minimizes wiring size, weight and routing high amperage capability where it's not needed (no need for that much power to go in to your door panel control bank in the first place if it's coming back out). Instead millivolts are passed through the switch and those millivolts activate a relay that switches the big power.

 

I have no idea why the other seat was still working unless you are mistaken and there is a separate breaker, I just don't know.

  • Like 1
Posted

Got in my truck this morning and there is no heat in the seats, and the power on the driver has stopped working. If it is a relay setup, where is the relay for the seats, and where is the fuse that controls the other side of the relay??

Posted

the relays are under the seat. The seat has only one power wire feeding it, it gets distributed under the seat.

There is no fuse on the power to the relay, that's what the circuit breaker is for. Pull the breaker and reinstall it and you should have power again. Chances are you have a short somewhere under your seat and it's tripping the breaker. Could be a bad wire, seat motor or seat heater.

  • Like 1
Posted

Sounds like a lot of fun is in my future.......I tried pulling the circuit breaker again and leaving it out for a little bit and then reinstalling, and that didnt help it this time. Am I correct in assuming that the heated seats and power function are on 2 seperate circuits since they are in 2 seperate locations on the fuse block?? If so, any ideas why they would both quit working at the same time, or is it just a fluke and I really have 2 seperate issues that just happened to occur at the same time??

  • 4 years later...
  • 8 months later...
  • 11 months later...
Posted

Hey Guys, my 2003 Suburban's power driver's seat worked when the wife took it to the store, but when I went out later the seat was dead. No power, and the heater was a zero as well... Passenger seat was still functioning fine... ...I disconnected the battery for 30 seconds, and after reconnecting, the seat works again. Give it a shot...can't hurt...hope this helps somebody.

  • 1 year later...
Posted
On 11/13/2017 at 9:48 AM, Backlineguy said:

Hey Guys, my 2003 Suburban's power driver's seat worked when the wife took it to the store, but when I went out later the seat was dead. No power, and the heater was a zero as well... Passenger seat was still functioning fine... ...I disconnected the battery for 30 seconds, and after reconnecting, the seat works again. Give it a shot...can't hurt...hope this helps somebody.

Did this fix the problem, or did it persist down the road?

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Declaring victory would upset the demons that possess this Blazer, so I won't. But I did make progress today--after it put up a fight. Always a fight.   I had the day off so I spent the morning cleaning up the shop and I thought I'd get ahead of things by filling the cooling system in prep for the final part I needed to arrive: the driver's side knock sensor. Glug, glug, glug....and then the unmistakable sound of liquid hitting the shop floor. It induces the same chagrin when the sonar and targeting laser temporarily malfunction during a late night bladder evacuation over the toilet with the bathroom light off. D'OH!!! That made a mess...   Oh, hey, that knock sensor I removed? It threads into a wet port. Who knew?! Learn something new every day. Put a pin in that chore, I'll fill it the rest of the way later.   The knock sensor arrived at about 1pm. I threaded it in, connected the wire, filled up the coolant, checked for leaks, and... drumroll.... fingers crossed for a perfect start, excellent timing, model fuel trims, and ...no squeaks... Here goes.....   No, it didn't start. At all. I cranked it a few times and it wasn't sounding good. Furthermore, I heard leaking again. Jesus H Tapdancing Christ, stop leaking all over the dang floor. This time I had accidentally overfilled the coolant reservoir and the churn of the water pump via cranking caused a bit to burp out. Ok, just, breathe... Put the flamethrower down. Dang thing wouldn't burn anyway, leaks too much...   Did you know the rotation of a round crank sensor in a round hole, matters? I do now. Took me about half hour to retrace steps and realize what I had done. Then it started right up.   No squeaks. The squeak was the old balancer.   Once it entered closed loop, fuel trims are dead on, hovering right around zero at idle. No more -30%. I'll credit the injector rebuild on that one.   Timing? I think there's an OBD 1.5 translation error with my Actron scanner. It's anywhere from -20 to -30 at idle, sometimes as high as -40 cruising. Sorry, the engine just isn't running that smoothly at -40 degrees ignition advance. It's just not. It's smooth all through the rev range and has decent power. I'm going to have to trust the seat of my pants on this one.   The new exhaust is very quiet. The old catalytic converter? Not melted, but definitely not healthy. Rains glitter when you turn it on its end...all the precious metal is flaking out. Once the new exhaust system burned in/smoked off a bit, the engine's exhaust smell is normal again. Not that I'd recommend going around huffing car exhaust, but, you know what I mean?   One problem to correct. The new exhaust has the opposite problem of the old spliced up exhaust. It wants to hit the floor where the old one wanted to rest on the cross member. Happy medium, please? Still noodling on that one, need to look at how I can adjust some hangers.   I don't know what's next. On one hand I want to run away from this thing as far and as fast as I can -- there have been a lot of NOT fun moments. On the other, now that it kinda drives nice, maybe drive it around for a little bit?   Shhh... it's not currently dripping oil all over the floor. I can see just a little wet at the bottom of the timing cover where it meets the oil pan seal. It's not dripping multiple drops with every ignition cycle, in fact, after some driving this evening it has yet to even form a drop that could drip off yet. But the weekend is young... I fully expect this could turn into Exxon Valdez by Sunday. Because this Blazer hates me. LOL.      
    • About that:   Once upon a time in a land far far away lived a car company that was shy about taking your money and wanted to be sure that they gave you more that you asked for so that you'd come back. No really, not a fairytale. 😱   But after the field got thinned out enough to limit the competition it seemed good enough to give you only what you asked for. Fair enough I say but in such a market you have to give something the others are not or they go to the one who does. Gimmicks or glitz. Oh, fins and chrome. Yea, shinny crow like cars. Yum.    Field narrows a bit more and 'brand loyalty' becomes a thing and the minute it does they start thinking to themselves, "Could we make more money if we gave them less than they expect and they will hang in there for brand and comfort with the known?" They gave it a try and da*n, it worked!!    Well, what if we teach them, groom them into believing that less is "Normal" and cut some more corners. Will that work? Oh heck yea!    🤔 I wonder, can we give then WAY less than they expect and make them mad enough to spit nails and STILL get them to pay up? Sure, if we get everyone else to do the same so that the choice is less or nothing at all. How would be do that? Platform sharing.  What a concept, right?  Steal like there is no tomorrow and it's legal too!    Truth is no one is going to give up driving, not for very long. The Gen Z crowd is fine with it and will be as long as someone not Gen Z will haul them around. At some point we all die.    Economic voting only works if you cast a NO vote now and again and enough of them to get dumb and dumber to wise up. Well, that's how I was taught anyway. And it should have worked. Would have worked. But the Bail out!!   Look, you have another choice if  you take that bag off your head. If the dumb it down to some predetermined expectation of how John Q Public will use it the, that is under design it to failure they you use it to a lower stress mode. D'ho!    A 1950 Royal Enfield Bullet 500 will go anywhere a Suzuki Hayabusa will and for just as long. But you will have to treat it for what it is and not for what you wish it was. 
    • Maybe I was just too unlucky, but I had nothing but bad luck with Bridgestones. Out of 3 sets, they all started losing a lot of air when they got down to about 1/2 tread life, and at that point also wet traction suffered more than it should have. Also, the only tire I ever had in my 60 years of driving that had a side wall blow out was a Bridgestone.   I'm currently running Goodyear Wrangler Workhorse AT and am very happy with them.   
    • maybe when the trip is over, check all the other joints in the front end, like all the ball joints, tie rods, pitman & idler arms, etc...
    • Thks, and actually it was my bad, because here in this post there is someone showing the correct wire position as well. My bad... But thank you a lot with the help as well. I was able to find and buy a 10 channel VPM that came from a sister silverado of mine. The same year, same mode, same trim, same everything. 2022 Silverado 1500 LTD LTZ (pre-refresh). I also found to buy just the bottom mirror part that has the cameras, so way cheap than the full mirror. + a used front camera. I did test everything together, cameras, cables and the VPM.... everything worked EXCEPT my original Bed camera and the backup grid lines. I think the reason is because now I need to do the VPM reprogram. I sent a msg White Automotive & Media Service to confirm that it is the problem and that they can do it service for me case.   Once I get it 100% done I will post here result....
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...