Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Anyone have an idea of what might be going on here? I rotated my tires a few days ago and performed the relearn process let air out method. I've done this a half dozen times in the past with no problems.

 

The system recognized the new locations of the tires but when I started it, the small TPMS amber light is always lit on the dash. It does not blink, just stays on steady. There is also NO display on the DIC readout.

 

I've reset the system. Pulled N on battery for 10 mins.

 

Performed the TPMS relearn process a 3-4 additional times.

 

Air'd up all tires to max and then to low so DIC readout would indicate a low tire warning.

 

Verified the TPMS air pressure is close, ie within 3-4psi of an accurate tire gauge.

 

I would think a TPMS fault would be accompanied by a DIC display? Everything i've read says the light will blink for 60 secs and a error display will show.

 

 

Thanks for any ideas!!!

Posted

Well it sounds like you have already checked most of the possible causes. My only other idea is that maybe one of the sensors has gone bad. :dunno:

Posted (edited)

I thought I read someplace if the sensor battery is going bad this will happen?

 

Probably need some type of scan tool to determine which one. If it is that may want to change them all out if they are getting old.

 

Isn't the life ~ 5 - 10yrs?

http://www.tirerevie..._batteries.aspx

Edited by NUKE_1
Posted

No idea but please post up when you get it sorted out. Anything in the manual? I'm to lazy to go out and get mine and look for ya. :)

Posted (edited)

From the manual;

TPMS Malfunction Light and Message

The TPMS will not function properly if one or more of the TPMS sensors are missing or inoperable. When the system detects a malfunction, the low tire warning light flashes for about one minute and then stays on for the remainder of the ignition cycle. A DIC warning message is also displayed. The low tire warning light and DIC warning message come on at each ignition cycle until the problem is corrected.

 

Some of the conditions that can cause the malfunction light and DIC message to come on are:

1. One of the road tires has been replaced with the spare tire.

The spare tire does not have a TPMS sensor. The TPMS malfunction light and DIC message should go off once you re‐install the road tire containing the TPMS sensor.

 

2. The TPMS sensor matching process was started but not completed or not completed successfully after rotating the vehicle's tires. The DIC message and TPMS malfunction light should go off once the TPMS sensor matching process is performed successfully.

See “TPMS Sensor Matching Process” later in this section.

 

3. One or more TPMS sensors are missing or damaged.

The DIC message and the TPMS malfunction light should go off when the TPMS sensors are installed and the sensor matching process is performed successfully. See your dealer for service.

 

4.Replacement tires or wheels do not match your vehicle's original equipment tires or wheels. Tires and wheels other than those recommended for your vehicle could prevent the TPMS from functioning properly. See Buying New Tires on page 10‑75.

 

5. Operating electronic devices or being near facilities using radio wave frequencies similar to the TPMS could cause the TPMS sensors to malfunction. If the TPMS is not functioning it cannot detect or signal a low tire condition. See your dealer for service if the TPMS malfunction light and DIC message comes on and stays on.

Edited by NUKE_1
Posted

Like Nuke posted above, all the owners manual states are TPMS Icon flashes for 60 secs then on steady accompanied by DIC message.

It states nothing about just a steady light and no DIC message. If the batteries are low, I would think they would last longer than 3.9 years.

The sensors and transmitter function ok. If I drop any tire below 35psi, it gives me a low tire warning for that location. I just can't get the damn light to clear from the dash. Ohhh well. I can live with it till I get new tires or am close to the dealer..

 

Thanks guys for the help.

Posted

Check the pressure in the spare tire. It could have gotten low enough to trip the light and the timing was just a coincidence.

 

 

Air pressure in spare is 45psi per air gauge and spare does not have a TPMS sensor.

Posted

I'm on my phone so I can't see what kind of trick you have but 45 psi in a 1500 is way too much and over inflation might trip the light too. Take that down to 35 like the door sticker probably says.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • 3 months later...
Posted

Did anyone ever find a resolution to this? I have the exact same thing going on with a 2008 Silverado. TPMS light is on but no related warning and the pressures show up correctly in the DIC. Had the tires rotated and the TPMS relearned but no luck.

Posted

Bump. I have this same problem with my 2008 Sierra 1500. The light is on, no DIC message, Onstar email correctly reports proper inflation in all 4 tires, I verified my spare is properly inflated, and also Onstar said they could pull no error code for it (asked because I coincidentally now also have a B0083 air bag code... no idea).

 

I've done the relearn process and also tried disconnecting the battery for 10 mins. Maybe it is saying the sensor battery is low but still operating? Not that I know where or how to replace it.

  • 10 months later...
Posted

2008 GMC Sierra Texas Edition. The other day my TPMS came on and it wasnt reading the RF tire. When I restarted the truck everything was working but came back on after driving about 30 minutes. I took it to a local tire shop and the reprogrammed/relearned the tire censors and it seemed to fix the problem. A day later TPMS came back on but now the LF tire isnt reading. It works fine when i start the truck up but again everyday like clock work the TPMS comes back on. Does anyone have an idea what this is? Ive read a few things some say the RCDLR needs to be reprogrammed with updated software.

Posted

Folks- These little batteries in the sensors, and the sensors themselves will last at best 3 years in most cases. Many times, the sensors are broken when tires are replaced, not really a way around that, which is why it's a good rule of thumb to have the sensors replaced/rebuilt every time you get new tires.

Posted

In addition, I am not 100% certain in the case of the GM Trucks and cars, but I know for certain that in many of the Asian vehicles, there is a TPSM in the spare tire and that is often the cause for the light coming on.

Posted

If you have any aftermarket electronics, tuners, gauges attached to the obdii port, cell phone chargers, cigar lighter to USB adapters, mp3 players, etc try disconnecting them to determine if they are interfering with the TPMS signals.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Apologies in advance, this is a long post, there's a lot to explain.   A friend had a 2010 Avalanche with a 5.3 (LMG) that blew the head gaskets (amount other problems). He gave me a donor motor out of a 2007 suburban (LC9). I got it all installed, and everything hooked up. Went to go start it, and it stumbled a bit at first and died a couple times, but after trying a few times it sounded like it was running very well. Went out to go get some coolant, and came back the next day.    Upon trying to start it, the truck will crank and fire normally and the RPMs will raise to around 1,200 or 1,500, sounding great, and then the RPMs will decrease and it will just die. Repeat that a dozen or two dozen times, and eventually it will fire and idle beautifully. As soon as you touch the throttle, it will start misfiring and sound like absolute trash. When you let off the throttle it will come down and hunt around shaking and misfiring like crazy. A message will come up on the dash saying reduced engine power.    It is throwing codes for a map sensor circuit voltage High, as well as MAF sensor low frequency. With key on engine off, the map sensor reads about 4.8 volts on the vout pin, which the PCM interprets as about 17.8 PSI, contrasted to the barometer which my scan tool tells me reads about 13.5 PSI. However, once the engine starts and is idling this reading drops to about 5-6 PSI at a stable idle, and varies significantly when the engine is misfiring/ hunting like I said before. I should note that I used the intake and MAP sensor from the LC9 engine. I changed the connector on the 2010 harness to The 2007 connector. The pinouts for the sensors were printed right on the top, and I triple-checked that I put the correct wire into the correct place.   On the other hand, the MAF sensor reads consistently 0.0 g/s regardless of State. I have pulled my hair out trying to figure out this last detail. I have tried three different sensors, (all of which should be good, one of which was new), I have verified all the wiring from the sensor going back to the PCM, and have verified that the readings at the PCM are the same readings as at the sensor itself. The intake air temperature sensor is also functioning as normal. I verified all the voltages and grounds etc, and everything is as it should be. I don't have an oscilloscope to verify, but I probed with my multimeter (Klein mm720) on frequency Mode, and it reads that on initial cranking, the maf is producing between 3000 and 7000 HZ, and as soon as the engine fires that falls off to below, 1000, and if the engine continues to run, it will produce somewhat erratic readings between 5 and 100-200 HZ. It does increase notably when the engine is revved despite the misfirings. As I said before, I have verified all of the wires going to the PCM, and I have tried multiple known good sensors. I've tested all the pins and voltages from the sensor and verified them against the manual that they are what they should be. I tested all the wiring for both ohms and voltage drop, and everything tested fine. Like I said I tested at the sensor as well as right at the PCM, everything checked out.   The only other thing of note at least I think is the fact that the engine originally in the truck had VVT, but the engine I put in, the lc9, does not have VVT. I modified the cam sensor plug to work. I reference the wiring diagrams and double-checked that I modified the harness correctly to adapt it. There is obviously a code for the VVT solenoid, but I don't think that's the cause of my problems, and this friend will probably have the PCM sent off to tune out the codes at some point.   I'm writing this for my bed so I don't recall the exact codes, but I'll update the post tomorrow morning with the exact codes. And ideas or feedback much appreciated. 
    • It's possible the two trucks are using different body control modules which is why yours works and the OP's doesn't.   So much in these newer vehicles depends on model/trim configurations, production date. They don't all use the same modules like back in the day.
    • I forgot to answer the question as per what market mine is set to and yes I finally found that area on mine and yes its also set to America.   So here's something I realized as I wasn't looking at that part in the Sierra section until now, your right that what I see here as choice 3 under Sierra which says 07/2023-06/2026 ( 433 MHz 13542523 ) it has no choice 5 for tire pressure selection. Where as it does under the Chev choice. However I kept going down the list within the Sierra and I am really wondering if choice 9 will work for your truck as it has the same model number and hertz sensor as my truck. I would say try that choice first, if that doesn't work then jump over to the Chev section and again choose that same model and hertz choice as for some reason the Chev section gives the choice 5 of tire type/pressure selection for going back a number of years. Could very well be an Autel thing that they just didn't get the updates all done properly under Sierra but anyway first try that selection 9 I suggested under Sierra and then go from there. 
    • Looking for this piece that holds the hose clamp in place. I have the hose clamp just not that other piece. Dealers and wrecking yards in my area will not sell just that piece. They want you to buy the whole air tube $100 +/- to get that $5 part.  that piece isn't molded to the air tube as I looked at my friends truck. It's held on by a screw and nut. I'm trying to put the OEM parts on the truck as the previous owner butchered things up installing an aftermarket CAI. It really looked homemade. 🤣 Thanks
    • Ok I missed that part that yours is a GM. The strange part is that the choice for year ranges and within the year of 2026 is different on the Sierra then on the Chev for some reason as I am looking at my tool at the Sierra choices. Now I am guessing you see as to your sensor part number as it may be different on your truck for some reason and a call to GM should get you the part model number of the sensors you should have as well as which MHz your sensors are. I know mine are the ones as per what I listed but there are other choices in the Autel and got me wondering if by some chance they put different ones in your truck. Having said that, did you try using each of the choices starting from No 1 and going on down the list, not sure if that would mean shutting off the engine each time and resetting the tool and going at it again each time. Also I thought of something else which may sound retarded but if there was some stupid chance that the chev choice would work. The reason I say that is that the Sierra is showing a range up to 06/2026 for the various choices of sensors it could be where as the Chev has one choice that has that 12/2026. By the way it is possible to not run the truck and you may know that as per not pressing the brake but pressing and holding the start button for a few seconds and it lights up the dash ( its called service mode ) but that sucks battery power and if it were me doing it that way I would be throwing on a decent sized battery charger before doing it that way as killing your battery won't make you happy at me at all !.    Like I say, just a thought to try the Chev choices if you have already exhausted the Sierra choices but first it would be nice to know for sure what exact sensor model and hertz your truck uses as I assume only those choices that mention the sensor would work unless a choice that does not mention the sensor model would somehow work. Its frustrating when one is trying to use tools like this without the experience of the tool and the vehicle, as I am sure dealer techs themselves struggle with it when starting out or a new model year comes along that is slightly different. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...