Jump to content

Looking for TRUE IGNITION SOURCE in 2009 Sierra Denali 6.2L


Recommended Posts

Posted

Ok guys, title says it all. I need to find a true IGNITION power source. Not accessory power or constant power but I need power to the circuit ONLY when the engine is running and at no other time, regardless of what position the key is in. Only when the engine is running. That rules out RAP too.

 

I have scoured the search function here and only find accessory power locations and a really nice write-up on RAP. Unfortunately that doesn't help me.

 

Anyone know where to find a true ignition source under the hood in a 6.2 litter 2009 Sierra Denali?

 

Thanks in advance for any help you guys can give.

 

Oh, and for your help, I give you this...

 

Jennifer_Connelly_Horse1.gif

Posted

I guess I should also add that I have tested about every circuit in the underhood panel with a DMM and did not find one. :shakehead:

 

I could have overlooked one though.

Posted

You should be able to find it under the dash, driver side.

 

I do not believe there is just a spare spot, you'd need to tap into something.

 

I'm wondering what scooby5121 is wondering. :) The cig lighter works good, but I think that still has power in accessory mode.

Posted

alldata.com,

 

$27/yr

 

thats what ya need ,not us here

 

 

So you're saying that no one on this GM-Truck forum knows where ignition source power is on a GM truck?

 

Thanks for the suggestion, but I have faith in the forum members. For example, I could tell what circuit, plug, wire or orifice to tap on most any year Corvette. I just figured there would be some serious enthusiasts about GM trucks here. I'm sure there are.

 

What do you want to operate , just wondering.

scooby

 

 

I'm wiring in a dual battery setup. The ignition source is so the isolator relay can sense 12 volts to activate it, but only when the engine is running, or it kind of defeats the purpose of a battery "isolator". I am familiar with the VSR (voltage sensitive relays) that don't require tapping an ignition source, but they don't have high enough amperage ratings for my needs.

Posted

:) The cig lighter works good, but I think that still has power in accessory mode.

 

 

It does. :freak:

Posted

Lemme guess, everyone is just staring at the GIF I posted...right? :lol:

Posted

Look on your alternator for a S terminal. That's what we would use for a starter blocking relay so the starter won't engage while the engine is running. If you don't see it check with an alternator shop. The fuel pump relay or the oil pressure switch that controls the fuel pump relay maybe another choice.

 

Mike

Posted

Tap into the throttle positioning sensor

 

Look on your alternator for a S terminal. That's what we would use for a starter blocking relay so the starter won't engage while the engine is running. If you don't see it check with an alternator shop. The fuel pump relay or the oil pressure switch that controls the fuel pump relay maybe another choice.

 

Mike

 

 

 

Thanks guys, I'll check them out. :cheers:

Posted

Thanks for all of the reply’s guys, I really appreciate the help! :cheers:

 

I found the 12v ignition source!

 

It is located in the Mid-Bussed Electrical Connector in the driver side floorboard, behind the parking brake. It’s at port X-14 pin # 7.

 

Here’s a picture of the MBEC:

 

Denali_MBEC1_zpsb983b5d1.jpg

 

Here is a close up of the empty connection bay. Pin # 7 is a true 12v ignition source.

 

Denali_MBEC2_zps1dc120ec.jpg

 

Thanks again for the reply's guys and I hope this helps someone else. :thumbs::seeya:

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,866
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Greg3160
    Newest Member
    Greg3160
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 562 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Late reply, but yes—it works on the SLT trim. Compatibility comes down to the plastic shroud shape behind your mirror, not the trim badge itself. On the SLT with auto-dimming, it uses a plug-and-play Y-harness off the mirror/rain sensor power, so no need to run wires down to the OBD port. If anyone's ever unsure about fitment, just drop a photo of your mirror housing and we can double-check it.   Appreciate the detailed feedback on the install! On the windshield glare—we actually took feedback like yours and developed a dedicated CPL (polarizer) filter to cut down dash reflections on sunny days. If you're still running the cam, shoot me a DM. I'd be happy to send a CPL filter over for you to test out—no charge. 
    • There are no stickers in your glovebox?
    • Look at the numbers on the stickers in the door jam...
    • Yes, every time the developer updates his code, you must recompile. I will private message you with the latest because it changes pretty much with every version.
    • After I wrote that reply I went for a ride. 85 F out. So trans started at 85 F and it shifted the same as it did an hour latter at 168 F. I've never actually recorded the to cold to shift point but it is under 32 F before they start hanging on to a lower gear or leaving the converter unlocked. Both intended to heat fluid.    Yes, brake or bake. Absolutely.      Your welcome. True research ended decades ago. Field trials are still in play.    There is a thing called oxidation onset temperature. This is the heat related oxidation not the O2 exposure kind. For mineral oil that starts at 140 F. So what happens after 140 F? Each 20 F cuts fluid life in half! Does using a Full Synthetic improve that? Yes! By how much? Depends on the base oil type and a few other factors. But enough to notice. Some esters are even higher. There are even synergies between types the will raise it higher than any one component is alone.    Then there is "Hindered" oils. Antioxidant additives. Hindered Polyol Esters can sit at 500 F for years in a turbine.   When a blender brags his oil will 'take 500 F" in service he doesn't specify for how long. Water will dance on a 500 F hot plate for several seconds. @newdude put up a chart showing the relationship between fluid temperature and it's life in an automatic transmission. Here's a version of that chart for Group III based oils. These temperatures are those in the pan as observed as 'normal'. that is you drive as you do for as long as you do under what load you ask of it and whatever that temperature is this graph applies to. Flash temperatures of a few minutes isn't what his means.    Note that fluids held at a constant 240 F have a service life of only 20K miles. 220 F explains the factory exchange limit, eh? My equipment I keep under 180 F and I'm good if the cooler will hold it as low as 140 F. But that's me.   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...