Jump to content

Need Some Wheel Advice. Offset? Width?


diggerdan11

Recommended Posts

Posted

So I want to get some new wheels for my truck. The ones I want seem back ordered everywhere, but I dont mind waiting. I found one site that has them for sale but I need to call them and double check that they have them in stock. They have two different offsets and Im trying to figure out what one I should get.

 

Truck: 2003 Silverado 1500HD 4X4

Tires : 285/75r16 ( approx 33")

Suspension: Torsion bars were tweaked just a bit.

 

The current 285/75r16 have no issues rubbing, but I dont want to risk rubbing with the new wheels.

 

Does anyone know what the stock with is on a HD 16" wheel. IIt should be 8" right?

What is the offset? I have heard both +35 and +31

 

The wheels I want are a 16X8 with either a -6 or a +10 offset Which one would you guys suggest? I dont want my wheels to stick out too far

 

I found this calculator and I hope it helps me figure out the wheels I want.

http://www.1010tires.com/Tools/Wheel-Offset-Calculator

 

If I enter in the stock wheels being a 8" with a +35 mm offset. The -6 offset will stick out 41mm (1.6in) and the +10 will stick out 25mm (.98in)

If the stock wheels are 8" with a +31 offset . The -6 offset will stick out 37mm (1.46 in) and the +10 will stick out 21mm (.82in)

 

So the offset of the stock wheels will be very important in helping me determine which ones I want to get.

Posted

You will want the +10. Or find some 8 lug SS reps

 

Sent from my DROID RAZR MAXX using Xparent Red Tapatalk 2

Posted

You will want the +10. Or find some 8 lug SS reps

 

Sent from my DROID RAZR MAXX using Xparent Red Tapatalk 2

Yeah I was thinking that +10 would be the ones I want

 

According to this link I found a 285/75r16 will not have any issues rubbing as long as the backspacing is not less that 4.5In (it was for a 1500 and i would assume a 1500HD would have less issues rubbing)

http://www.wheelsforless.com/GM_Truck.htm

And according to this link, the backspacing of a +10 offset on a 8" wheel si 4.89 in so I should be good.

http://s47.photobucket.com/user/4DRLS2/media/TBSS%20Wheels/rimbackspacingchart.jpg.html

Posted

Have some SS reps custom made. You know you miss the SS Dan

 

Sent from my DROID RAZR MAXX using Xparent Red Tapatalk 2

Posted

Have some SS reps custom made. You know you miss the SS Dan

 

Sent from my DROID RAZR MAXX using Xparent Red Tapatalk 2

 

yeah I do a bit, but I want to keep the 16" I have brand new tires on my trucks and I dont wnat to have to buy new ones also, plus id did the large rims once and Ive decided to go with a beeffy tire.

Posted

Stock HD rims are 16"x6.5" with +31mm offset.

Thank You

 

Wow they are only 6.5" Wide? Thats a lot skinnier that I thought they were.

 

That means that the wheels I want that are 8 inch with a +10 offset will stick out 40mm, or 1.5 in. Man I hope they dont rub

 

The backspacing on a stock HD 6.5" wheel is about 5" and the backspacing on the 8" with the +10 offset is also about 5" so there should not be a problem with rubbing on the inside, its the outside of the wheel im concerned about.

 

This calculator says that I should not have nay issues with the suspension, but may have issues with the fenders.

http://www.rimsntires.com/specs.jsp

Posted

The shop that tweaked my torsion bars also did a little bit of trimming of the plastic, so hoepfully they did enough. I could always go ahead and do a leveling kit, but I was told that it will make much truck a little rougher riding, and a little squirly in 4WD.

 

Im looking into different body lift options, and possible a suspension lift. But im not sure how good 33" tires will look with a 4" or 6" lift. And those tires are brand new and would hate to have to buy new ones.

Posted

1.5" body lift?

 

Sent from my DROID RAZR MAXX using Xparent Red Tapatalk 2

Posted

My 06 1500HD I ran a levelling kit, 2 inch blocks and minor trimming I ran 33x13.5 r18 tired. Rims were 18x9 with +18 offset, looked decent barely any rubbing. Didn't have to crank t-bars very much at all still rode nice.

 

My original plan was levelling kit, fender cut-outs/flares and 35x13.5's...tepy5ysu.jpg

Posted

My 06 1500HD I ran a levelling kit, 2 inch blocks and minor trimming I ran 33x13.5 r18 tired. Rims were 18x9 with +18 offset, looked decent barely any rubbing. Didn't have to crank t-bars very much at all still rode nice. My original plan was levelling kit, fender cut-outs/flares and 35x13.5's...tepy5ysu.jpg

Very nice. Those are some wide tires.

 

So I did a test yesterday, and it looks like my new wheels will cause my tires to rub on the bottom plastic part of the bumper. It will be an easy trim. I think i should be able to trim and it should clear no problem. Now I just have to decide if I want to do something to make the truck look more aggressive.

 

A 2" body lift would be a nice addition, but id dont want to pay for that and then decided its not enough. I could do a 4-6" lift but im not sure how the 285/75r16s will look under a lift. Im affraid they will be a little too small and narrow, and they are brand new and I really dont want to fork out $2000 for a lift and another $1000 for new tires on top of the wheels I just bought.

Posted

yep I guess I did.

 

I think im just going to go ahead and do a body lift. 2 or 3 that is the question.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.6k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    343,007
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Brendan C
    Newest Member
    Brendan C
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,123 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Thanks for posting, I'm sure it will help someone
    • New to diesel trucks. I happened to find my oil cooler leaking oil externally with only 4,000 miles on the truck. I didn’t realize this was an issue until I started researching it. Dealer is going to replace it under warranty but I’m wondering if there’s anything GM is working on to fix this issue. I’ve heard the oil filter used is the same as they use on their V6 motors and that’s what is causing the problems. Should I switch to a bigger filter or keep using the OEM recommended? 
    • So, GMCustomerService:  Judging by the Update History pictured above, is this truck missing any updates that it actually needs. If it's just for the infotainment system, the radio is working fine and no trouble with SeriusXM. and Android Auto is working fine wirelessly with my phone. Some months ago, an update notice was sent to my truck. I approved the update and it finished saying that the update was successful, but it seems that whatever that update was, it didn't actually get installed - at least not if I'm to go by the Update History shown above.   So, again, are there any updates that this truck really should have? I've checked with my dealer but they're reluctant or commit to anything and if I want them to check, they require a $200.00 fee just to check it out and then I'd have to pay for the actual update(s).    Ignorance is bliss, and if none of the updates goes to fixing any mechanical discrepancies, I'll just leave things as is.  
    • Hey everyone, I recently had an issue with my 07 2500HD GMT900. My DRL’s stay on at all times. Right front turn and right mirror turn signal indicator stay on solid at all times. By “at all times” I mean the only way to make them go off is disconnecting the battery. I tore the headlight assemblies out, tried disconnecting the harnesses to eliminate bad wiring at the harness, I unplugged the headlight switch, no change and the mirror turn signal still stayed on. My first thoughts were : Bad bulb and/or socket somewhere, under hood fuse panel bad, bcm bad, tail light or trailer wiring problem, or some random short to power in the harness.  Possibly a bad ground but unlikely. I had a big clue in the fuse panel, it had a burnt smell. I started pulling every fuse that had to do with DRL or right turn/park lamp. Nothing made the right directional turn off but pulling the DRL2 fuse made the DRL’s go out.  After studying wiring diagrams, I found that both problems had that fuse panel in common, the bcm also controls both problems but knowing the fuse panel had a burnt smell I removed and disassembled the fuse panel and found a little corrosion on the printed circuit board.  I ordered a new fuse panel from Amazon for like $260. When it arrived I installed it, and put everything back together, the problem was fixed. I figured the fuse panel needed to be replaced anyway so that was a logical place to start. Hopefully this story helps someone in the future. Regretfully I didn’t scan for codes before I did everything.
    • That stinks. I’m sitting on the side of the road right now with the same issue. Never had an issue before taking it in for the ground strap recall. Now I’m outside of warranty and they’ll probably want $200 just to diagnose what they already “fixed”. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...