Jump to content

Issues with Hawk LTS pads? Something else?


Recommended Posts

Posted

I am getting an occasional constant squeak from my front brakes. It doesn't happen all the time and is usually present between 20-45 mph. I'm also getting squeal towards the end of my stop on slow speed stops. A little background:

 

Replaced OEM pads/rotors with Hawk LTS/Powerslot Slotted rotors about a month and a half ago. For the first week they were completely quiet. Then I started getting the squeaking from front left. Checked front left caliper and it looked like one of the pistons was sticking. Replaced caliper. Found out master cylinder was leaking. Replaced that. Took it to dealer and they computer bled the brakes so there is no air.

 

I am still getting the intermittent squeaking. I relubed the slide pins this weekend but that didn't help. There was plenty of grease on all contact points as well.

 

Even though the pads have shims already installed, should I put some of the red disc brake quiet on the back of the pads or not? It looked like there was something like that on the origional pads.

 

I'm going to get my alignment done this weekend and they always do a brake check while it's on the lift. I'll have them check it and listen for the noise when they drive it. Autoanything needs a diagnosis from a shop before they can warranty anything.

Posted

Keep an eye on those rotors, my power trash rotors didn't last a full year. Mine started squealing and shaking so I looked the rotors over and found hair line cracks all over them where the drilled holes are.

Posted

Yes. Pads and rotors were bedded in properly according to Hawk's website. I did that twice. Should I try bedding them again? I'm not sure if there is a glaze but if there is a will sand them down. What grit sanding block do I need to use?

 

 

I don't have drilled rotors, just slotted.

 

Forgot to also mention that the truck tracks straight and stops straight as an arrow when braking.

Posted

Was there a problem with your OEM rotors? I have ~50k miles on my stock rotors/pads/drums, a good bit of which has been towing a heavy camper... and I'm ~50% worn, with zero issues. Hard to beat that, imho.

Posted

Was there a problem with your OEM rotors? I have ~50k miles on my stock rotors/pads/drums, a good bit of which has been towing a heavy camper... and I'm ~50% worn, with zero issues. Hard to beat that, imho.

 

My last truck's rotors were warped around 12,000 miles, but this truck has 16,000 on it with no brake problems at all. My wife's rotors on her Cruze have been warped since around the same 12,000 mile mark. Neither of us abuse the brakes unless we have to. It's like GM's brakes are hit or miss.

Posted

My last truck's rotors were warped around 12,000 miles, but this truck has 16,000 on it with no brake problems at all. My wife's rotors on her Cruze have been warped since around the same 12,000 mile mark. Neither if us abuse the brakes unless we have to. It's like GM's brakes are hit or miss.

 

Same here. Mine were warped probably around 10,000 miles or so.

Posted

Same here. Mine were warped probably around 10,000 miles or so.

 

 

Wow that's just pathetic to be warped that soon. My parents Monte Carlo has warped rotors on it too, but I think they lasted a while longer at around 40,000 or so miles.

Posted

They weren't horrible, but you could still feel it. That seems to be pretty common on the GMT-900 trucks too.

 

Now I just got to stop this squealing on the new pads. The brake performance is good but not to happy about the noise. I'm going to sand the rotors in the next day or so and rebed them and see if that helps. What grit sandpaper should I use when sanding the rotors?

Posted

Went out at lunch and snapped a picture of the rotor. It's a cell phone picture and I park in a parking garage so the quality and lighting isn't great.

 

The rotors in person don't look to be glazed/polished that bad. They don't look any different that what my factory ones looked like. They are silky smooth to the touch though.

post-49091-0-01640000-1370893470_thumb.jpg

post-49091-0-01640000-1370893470_thumb.jpg

post-49091-0-01640000-1370893470_thumb.jpg

post-49091-0-01640000-1370893470_thumb.jpg

Posted

Well I thought I got lucky yesterday. On the drive home it did not do the squeal one bit. Got in the truck this morning and it was quiet until I got off the interstate. I turned off the off ramp and had to hit my brakes pretty hard to stop at a light that changed quick and when I started driving again, the started the squealing at about 20 mph all the way up to about 50.

 

Could it be the pads sticking and not sliding properly? It sounds like it is coming from the left side, which is the caliper that I replaced. I don't think it's the caliper sticking because it doesn't do it all the time. Plus it doesn't pull when driving or stopping and I can freely spin the wheel with it up in the air.

 

I want to get this taken care of because quite frankly it's really upsetting that I spent as much as I did on these and they squeal.

Posted

Maybe a little off topic and paranoid here, but after stopping (especially if it was a hard one), I maintain the lightest possible pressure on the brake pedal to keep the vehicle still, but ~every 10 seconds I'll roll it about a foot so the pads will be clamping onto a different and cooler section of rotor. My one brain cell imagines that this practice will reduce extended heat and gas trap on any one spot of the rotor, thus hopefully reducing the incidence of warpage. This little practice goes back to my Camaro/Corvette days where use of paper thin rotors was all part of the scheme to keep unsprung weight to a minimum. It seems to have worked for me so far. Of course, stopping far enough back of the vehicle in front of me is necessary to do this.

 

Drives some of my passengers nuts, but breaks a lull in conversation when I explain the why and wherefore to them.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,863
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Bulldogger
    Newest Member
    Bulldogger
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 799 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Thanks, so being a different beast altogether, anyone know what the "optimal" temp is for the 10L80/90 for proper shifting?
    • How many years have I pointed out every point in that link to the folks here and been avalanched with criticisms and outright hostilities at times? I ran counter to even the great CUSTOMBOSS and Lake Speed Jr and the half dozen experts on YouTube and in the final.....GM, Physics (Stribeck) backs that Grumpy old Bear.    Honestly, I never said a thing engineering hadn't studied silly and laid in concrete during WWII. But I'm old, the information is old and yet, the Laws of Physics are eternal.    Okay there is one exception. I vehemently disagree with their use of the word 'tolerances' when what it meant is "clearance".   The clearance is the distance between two objects. The tolerance is the degree of acceptable variation permitted in that clearance. I.E., piston to bore clearance is 0.004" with a tolerance of +/- .0002" so the clearance is in specification if it lies between 0.0038" and 0.0042". Cutting that 'tolerance in half has ZERO impact on lubrication requirements. Makes for more difficulty in manufacturing.  But a tighter clearance 'MAY'. Depends on finish. Anyway....   It's one of those statements made by people to make themselves look smarter than they are to convince people who are as un-enlighten as they seem to manipulate their behaviors. But hey, the blind leading the blind puts them both in the pit. 
    • Out and about yesterday on a long Saturday drive I passed a lot of Shell stations. My preferred, so I pay attention. Lot's of small town Illinois so not six stations in three blocks like the city.    Everyone of them over a radius of say 100 miles had regular at $4.19 but one which was the one closest to home at $4.15. However Premium pricing varied greatly between 85 cents over regular to $1.50 over. I'm not counting the price of the station with the lowest regular so the reference is the same for the remainder and all within the same brand. However the spread discrepancy holds across all brands.     @txab, any thoughts on that? 
    • What are your thoughts? The Chevy Blazer relaunch was an epic case of 'lunchbag letdown'. Jeep Wranglers and Ford Broncos stick out like a sore thumb.    The AI photos do not look like a 'retro version', but shrunken Tahoes. Get away from the 'futuristic look'. I've seen two concepts. One had rectangular headlight like a Rivian and the other way too big headlights (similar to a previous non-Wrangler SUV) should include dual round headlights like the early version.   If not this would look OK   At least it has GM styling (albeit the K2XX) A lot of the images floating around look like Bronco IIs or the current Bronco. Looking at the Broncos in my area (central Ontario, it seems to be a mix of 2 doors and 4 doors, 'mall rated' to ones that could go offroad.    I'm sure a AT4 and AT4X RPOs could be outfitted similar to a Rubicon if the braintrust understood the whole offroad scene. Crossing my fingers that if it does see the light that the front air dam/bumper doesn't extend below the center line of the tire...      
    • I saw this news earlier this year:   https://theautowire.com/2026/06/12/gm-kills-off-chevys-biggest-silverado-trucks-as-sales-collapse-and-factory-fallout-spreads/
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...