Daryl LBZ

I like everything about it except for one thing, the side mirrors. I really wish they would go back to putting them up higher on the doors right in front of the windows like they used to be. It's a small issues I know, but it's one that I can't seem to get past.

When it comes to the 8 speed I liked the one I had in my 2015. It gave me an issue where after the truck would set for 8 or more hours it would hesitate to go into drive and when it engaged it gave a decent clunk. They replaced the transmission in it, but 3k miles later it had the exact same issue again. GM wouldn't fix it again so I traded in the truck.

Found my issue! I was looking around under the drivers side dash and I tugged on a small bundle of taped up wires and they didn't move. As soon as I saw that I knew. When I put the nut back on under the dash where I put the ground for the mirrors I somehow managed to pinch the purple wire from the OBD2 port, so it was grounding out. As soon as I took the nut off and got the wire out everything started working again. I fixed the wire and off she went! Sucks that it was my fault, but at least it was an easy fix.

Ok so I did some more troubleshooting. All my grounds are good, batteries are new, everything under the underhood fuse panel looks fine. I pulled every fuse and none were blown. Replaced every relay with ones from my other junk 2006 truck. Unplugged various modules and none of that has worked. So I ended up doing more research on this and one way to help diagnose it is to get the U Codes (If you can communicate with the PCM) which I obviously can. So as I said above I have a U1300, U1301, U1016, U1041, & U1064. Now apparently the important ones here are: U1016 - No Communication with PCM/ECM - The one that I can NOT communicate with is the ECM U1041 - No Communication with Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) U1064 - No Communication with BCM Now another way to help diagnose is use a multimeter and probe the pins on Splice Pack 205 and see what the voltage is on each pin. What I've found on this is that a signal above 3.5v is considered high, and a signal belows 3.5v is considered low. With that being said, none of my pins are even putting out anything even close to 3.5v. Here is what I get: A - 0.14v B - 0.02v C - 0.00v D - 0.00v E - 0.00v F - 0.61v G - 0.39 H - Fluctuates between 0.27v - 0.29v K - Fluctuates between 0.02v - 0.03v L - 0.58 M - Fluctuates between 0.36 - 0.41v I also read that a low voltage issue usually indicates a wiring problem, open/shorted circuits. So that is where i'm currently at, still troubleshooting.

Thanks guy! I'm going to do some more troubleshooting today, I'll post up my findings.

Any kind of insight I can get would be great! So the truck is a 2006 Silverado 2500HD LBZ Duramax. Long story short the truck was working fine until I installed some Sparksmith LED Headlights & Boost Auto Tow Mirrors. Two days after the install I pulled the truck in the garage and noticed the LED strips on the drivers side headlights had quit working. When I installed the tow mirrors they haven't worked from the start. So while I have it in the garage and I notice that now the windows won't roll down, and the key fob no longer works. The truck also will not stay running now. It will start up, run for about 3 seconds, and then shut right back off. So I start looking through wiring all over the truck. Now I just had a transmission replaced as well, but everything worked fine until I added the lights and mirrors. So anyway I can't find anything wrong with the wiring. So I found out that when you have a U1300 code that the various modules can't communicate with each other because something is interfering with the signal. I saw that you can use the splice pack under the dash to help diagnose the issue. The problem there is I can't seem to find it. Any idea if they're always under the dash, or do I need to look elsewhere? When I use my scan tool it can not communicate with the BCM or the Transfer Case Module (Not sure of the technical term for the TC). It can communicate with the ECM & TCM. It's giving me a U1300, U1301, U1016, U1041, U1064, U0073. Can anyone narrow it down with the codes provided, or am I just going to have to go through the trouble shooting steps? I've attached the pages I saved from my scanner as well.

So I haven't done anything meaningful to the truck for a few years now. I noticed it had an exhaust leak a couple of months ago and it needed a state inspection and license renewal. I decided to let that go for a little bit as I was busy tearing the engine down in my Duramax amongst other things. Yesterday I finally got around to pulling it into the garage to examine the exhaust leak. While looking around I found that the frame had a hole rotted out in it by the fuel tank close to the size of my fist. I honestly wasn't surprised as I knew it was getting pretty bad underneath. On top of this and the exhaust being rotted out, the airbag light is on, drivers seat back is broken, it makes a bad growling noise when turning right, engine light is on for an EVAP issue, has a bad shimmy/shake while driving, and the tires are starting to dry rot. So since I'm currently rebuilding a 2500 and I have four other vehicles total I decided this one is officially dead. Planning on keeping the parts I can use with my other truck, and selling the rest. It was a great truck for me and a good learning experience as far as learning how to rebuild certain aspects of these trucks. I'm not sure of the official mileage, but the body/frame made it over 260k miles.

I wish the Steel Workers Union did half as much for us as the UAW does for their members.

I don't even look at the price half the time since there's not a whole lot that I can do about it. That being said the wife and I don't really go many places either, and neither of us are far at all away from our respectable jobs. I've always tried to have employment close to home that way I don't have to stress about these kinds of things as much. Some people aren't as lucky though. We also don't use anything lower than 89 octane in any of our four vehicles either. The 1500 Silverado & Mazda CX-5 get 89, the Cruze gets either 91 or 93, and the 2500 Silverado (which I haven't started driving yet) uses diesel.

I spray all of mine down using Super Clean and then rinse it off. Works great!

Rare Parts HD Tie Rods & Ends.

So at some point someone had installed the wrong shifter in this truck. It’s supposed to have the GMT900 style shifter with the manual gear selection button. Someone put the GMT800 style shifter in it for some odd reason. I bought the correct shifter as well as a new boot, and now everything works exactly as it should again.

I’m going to start on rebuilding the entire front steering and suspension. I’m just going to gather all the parts I need and then tear it down and do it all at once. I bought some brand new AcDelco brake calipers a few weeks ago for the front. I painted and clear coated them yesterday.

So I picked up a new project a few months ago, a 2006 2500HD LBZ Duramax with the 6 speed Allison. Truck has over 330k miles on it and needs a lot of work honestly, but I feel like I got it for a good price so I’m happy. Thankfully I can do the majority of work it needs myself.

I like it but I'll never own one.

I usually wait 3 months but I read recently it's not necessary any longer...

Not even the two I had without any major problems were flawless, but they were a lot better vehicles compared to the others.

Got rid of my 2015 a month ago for issues with the 8 speed transmission. That was my last newer GM pickup, I've had six different ones over the years and have only had two that I didn't really have any problems with.

Added an AEM CAI back in August as well.

Also swapped out the tow hooks for some red ones from Rough Country.

Just before winter I noticed that the truck wasn’t running like it should. Looked under the hood and noticed that it looked like the PCV valve was puking oil. My best guess was it was clogged since I had previously run CRC GDI cleaner through it twice to clean out the carbon/oil residue. So I decided to gather up everything I needed to perform a walnut blasting to the intake valves when spring came. Last weekend I was able to get this done. The valves weren’t as bad as I was anticipating, but either way I wanted them to be as clean as possible. The truck now idles almost completely smooth which is the main issue I was having. I also replaced the spark plugs & wires while I was at it since I took the spark plugs out anyway to make it easier to turn the motor over by hand when checking that each valve was closed before I began blasting it. Below are some pictures from before and after.

I have one sitting in my basement, but have not installed it yet. My transmission was replaced under warranty last year because it was hesitant to go into drive whenever the truck sat for 8 or more hours. It’s funny that they never installed a dipstick and use the excuse for it as people don’t need to do it themselves because they’ll screw up the transmission, but GM themselves can’t even get these transmissions right to begin with.

Easy now guys...

I'm hoping they change where the lower fender meets the bumper. I think if they change the flow of that it will be a lot better looking truck.

That is one good looking wheel/truck. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk