Jump to content

2003 6.0L rough idle


Recommended Posts

Posted

I've got a rough idle with random misfire code. I also had lean codes on both banks so I changed the intake gasket and that was taken care of. The engine runs fine it's above 1500 rpm. I've read that it could be a broken valve spring so thought I'd take off the valve covers for a look. I did a compression test on it first and found two basically dead cylinders and two low ones. They're the back two cylinders on both banks and each side has a dead cylinder. I took off the valve cover and the rockers and valve springs look fine. I removed the rockers from one of the dead cylinders and decided to crank the engine to see what would happen and got 130lbs up from 10lbs. Could the valve springs be weak? There is 410,000 km on the engine. Anyone got any ideas? I've never come across this before.

Posted

With those miles, it wouldn't hurt to do a tear down. Pull the heads, have a valve job done, inspect the pistons and cylinder walls for scoring, replace springs, new head gaskets, plugs, and wires. Refresh the engine.

Posted

With those miles, it wouldn't hurt to do a tear down. Pull the heads, have a valve job done, inspect the pistons and cylinder walls for scoring, replace springs, new head gaskets, plugs, and wires. Refresh the engine.

That's what I'm thinking might be one option but I'd like to fix this with the least $$ possible. It's strictly a work truck and just needs to get me to the job and back. Don't need it to run great but just run. With the miles on it I'm going to be getting into trans issues soon as well so I just want to make it last a few years if possible. The intake valve I can actually press down with my hand slightly so I'm thinking it's the springs. Anyone know where I can get springs beside the dealer?

Posted

gmpartsdirect.com if you have the part number. ebay possibly, could always go aftermarket

Posted

Most competent auto parts stores will have what you need. NAPA for example

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

ok, so I finally had a chance to pick up some springs and change them but the problem is still the same. Does anyone know if these engines have lifter issues? It's the only thing I can think would cause this. Cylinder has compression with the rockers off but nothing when installed. I'm thinking it's broken inside the lifter which is causing a valve to stay open slightly. Anyone have any ideas?

Posted

Went back out and loosened the rockers off, then tightened them finger tight. Cranked it over and got 185lbs. Tighten the bolts and I get 10lbs. I think lifters.

Posted

I think they are hydraulic roller lifters. If you no go that far, have the heads looked at and cleaned up

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,791
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    d.lowrey
    Newest Member
    d.lowrey
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,717 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Love the look. I'm a SCSB lover myself.    Two items. 1.) A spacer changes scrub radius but this also changes when we use wheels of different offsets. A little isn't a big deal. 2.) Steel wheels, alloy wheels all have different thickness. Same effect on the stud and lug nut as a spacer. When hub centric the wheel isn't supported by the stud. It's supported by the hub. The stud just keeps it all together.  
    • I had a evap sol go bad a couple weeks ago. . I replaced it.  While watching live data at the time I saw I had some cylinder 1 misfires. No MIL but on live data I could see ~50 at startup and about 70 more after an hour a drive all on cyl 1.  I also noticed that the LTFT were -5% to -15% always.  And that bank 2 is always -3% richer than bank 1. Even across all driving modes, city, highway, etc it’s always 3% richer than bank 1. So I start with the misfire. Swapped coil, plug, and plug wires from 1 to 3. No follow. I got an Injector reseal kit, pulled the D/s injector rail, swapped #1 and #3 injectors, resealed them, reinstalled and retested.  The misfire followed to 3. So I ordered and replaced all 8 injectors, spark plugs, and plug wires. Also replaced the 1 time use fuel pipes under the intake manifold.  Injectors that were in the truck since new were  Part # 12668390.  I replaced them with # 12742701 Got from RockAuto. Pretty certain they’re genuine and the correct ones. I called a friend at a parts store who told me “the 12742701 were the correct superseded part # for the originals I was replacing”. So started truck after replacing all that and it’s running -15 - -30 LTFTs. I reset the fuel trims with GDS2 and drove it for a 60 miles trip each way. There have been no changes in the LTFTs.  I checked if the HPFP was leaking into the crankcase. I removed the pvc and watched the trims. No difference.  I checked the alcohol content and it was at 10%  I’m out of ideas here. Truck seems to run great. Just always rich on the fuel trims.  Anyone with any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.  I ran an injector balance test just for the heck of it and it came back this. I’m confused.  I have gds2 and some other diag tools if anyone knows of anything I should test next.
    • Definitely needs to go back to the dealer. 
    • Fix one problem and find another.   Truck didn't have a thermostat in it so I flushed out the system today and refilled with 50/50 Dexcool. This truck is so old (LOL) that it has a sticker under the hood alerting people to the fact that it contains such. There is also an orange supplement with the owner's manual alerting the owner that "Your vehicle is one of a number of late production 1995 General Motors vehicles that use a newly developed engine coolant in the cooling system..."   I was still a little flummoxed by what seemed like a rich condition (exhaust smell, and a puff of carbon with a punchy rev). While watching the coolant temperature and testing the thermostat with my scanner, I happened to notice the IAT (incoming air temperature) to the intake was -40F. I know the temp is below average today, but I can still feel my face, and I was wearing shorts.   D'oh!! I realized I had never plugged the IAT back in, and the airbox was out while I was doing coolant. So I paused, reinstalled the airbox and plugged in the IAT, and viola. Things cleared right up, and I watched the coolant temp climb to a reported 198 degrees on the scanner (195 thermostat) and then it dropped to 194 (open) and then back up to 198 and held. Let it cool, came back, checked the coolant level and was satisifed.   Victory lap?   It needed more than the couple of gallons of gas I put in it from almost bone dry, so I ran it up to the gas station. It had earned it, or, at least I was pretty certain I wouldn't be draining or removing the tank anytime soon.   CEL popped on just as I was cruising a nice steady 40mph, just after coasting down a slight downhill curve.. Of course, it did, because, why let me enjoy not having dash emojis for a little while.   I just happened to have the scanner plugged in. I don't text and drive but I might scan and drive. Don't tell the police.   P0401, EGR flow insufficient.    Well, hello, EGR... ...my old friend! Welcome to the party, now that the engine reaches the factory-programmed operating temperature. I'm sure it was gagging on hostile, rich exhaust and carbon this whole time so I'll take it off and look again.   At least it's easily accessible, and worst case, about $65 to replace.   To keep, or to sell... Hmm. I want it running correctly either way. It's easier to sell when there are no fault codes.   It needs tires (they're aged out and cracking)   It could probably use an oil pan seal, or maybe the timing cover gasket/ junction with the pan needs redone because I've got an issue there that leaves a drop of oil on the floor.   If I do tires I'm sure they'll say the ball joints could use freshening, and, and, and, and.... At some point I'll have to stop. I can't (shouldn't) make it perfect, that's not what this rig is.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...