Jump to content

Leak in Rack & Pinion Power Steering


Gurrzt

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have this problem on my 2013 GMC Yukon.

 

I have "seepage" coming from the middle of the rack (out of a metal circular disc), that slowly drips down the front frame, and drips on the ground (to the left of the drivers side front tire, when standing looking at the front grill of the vehicle".

 

My vehicle is one year old, with 11k miles. The problem has been documented by my mechanic @ 9k miles when I was in for an oil change.

 

Is this a problem that GM knows about? is there a tech directive?

 

Thanks in advance for any and all feedback.

Posted

I can guarantee GM knows about it. What I cannot guarantee is if they'll do anything about it.

 

Same goes for brakes, ball joints, struts, interior noises, etc, etc.

 

Welcome to the 21st century world of manufacturing - create products as cheap as possible, and sell them for the highest price the public will bear. Quality takes a back seat to production & shareholders.

 

Good luck - hope you get that straightened out for free, as you SHOULD.

Posted

Gm knows about it. TSB says to replace the rack, but many have found out this still doesn't fix it as the new one leaks in the same spot. My truck does the same thing, has since the day i bought it. Im going to eventually try some of THE RIGHT STUFF from permatex, and smear it all around the threads on that adjuster nut where the leak is coming from. Hopefully that will work, its not leaking enough to lower the power steering level. Just enough to make a damn mess under there.

Posted

Best sealer on the planet right there. If that don't stop the leak, nothing will.

 

Wonder if parts from the older models ( 07-08 ) would fit that? Or the entire rack ($$$)? Sounds like they tried cutting some corners on the rack for '13 ....

Posted

My 2011 had the same problem, was replaced/fixed under warranty, it appears my 2013 is doing the same, im in no hurry to take in unless the fluid starts dripping onto the ground.

Posted

GM does not make the racks, they outsource them. If you do not chase them to get it corrected, then you are the problem. You should not have to do this, but, sometimes you have to do it. Make sure you contract GM customer service, and make sure you are on record as having an issue with your truck. Chances are very good that GM's deal with the company that makes the racks is that they are supplied with no warranty to GM. GM needs to get the supplier involved in this if the problem is widespread. And if it is as widespread as it appears, then GM should have already gone to supplier. But, if people do not bother taking it in, GM will not know how many have this issue, and will not inform supplier that they have a problem, and it will not be corrected at the level it needs to fixed at. Don't just assume that GM has already done this and is not going to fix it. Assume that they know nothing of it, and that they need to be told. By making sure that GM (not just the dealer) knows about you and your truck, it should protect you past your warranty time for the leaking rack.

 

I find it hard to believe that the dealer is doing nothing about fixing the leak at all. It is a leak, it should not be leaking. They should be trying to "fix" it, and if that fails, they should be replacing the rack. If it is known that the rack and pinion has issues, then replace the rack, or supply customer with documentation stating that the rack has issues, and that GM knows about it. Is there any chance of the oil hitting the exhaust? Maybe catching fire?

 

As for it leaking, but never requiring oil to be added, that does not make sense. If it is leaking, then the level will drop, It has to. If it doesn't, then I want that leak in my fuel tank.

 

I have a 2010, my buddy has a 2012, his son has a 2012 as well, none of these have leaks in the rack and pinion.

Posted

Gm knows about it. TSB says to replace the rack, but many have found out this still doesn't fix it as the new one leaks in the same spot. My truck does the same thing, has since the day i bought it. Im going to eventually try some of THE RIGHT STUFF from permatex, and smear it all around the threads on that adjuster nut where the leak is coming from. Hopefully that will work, its not leaking enough to lower the power steering level. Just enough to make a damn mess under there.

Do you happen to know the TSB number?

 

I called the dealership, and they told me that the rack and pinion is covered for 36K or 3 years whatever comes first.

 

I have aftermarket wheels (22X9.5 +34mm offset) with 285x45x22 (same option tire GM offers), hope they do not try to use that as an excuse for not taking care of the problem.

Posted

Do you happen to know the TSB number?

 

I called the dealership, and they told me that the rack and pinion is covered for 36K or 3 years whatever comes first.

 

I have aftermarket wheels (22X9.5 +34mm offset) with 285x45x22 (same option tire GM offers), hope they do not try to use that as an excuse for not taking care of the problem.

 

I'd have to get it at work. I don't have access to shopkey at home. If they are willing to replace it then let them. There is a good chance you might get a non leaking rack. They are probably going to try and pull the dye in the power steering bullshit they did with me and tell you to come back later. Let them know about the TSB and and tell them you want a new rack installed.

 

There is a GM rep that is on these boards. Maybe she can help you with the TSB number.

Posted

I'd have to get it at work. I don't have access to shopkey at home. If they are willing to replace it then let them. There is a good chance you might get a non leaking rack. They are probably going to try and pull the dye in the power steering bullshit they did with me and tell you to come back later. Let them know about the TSB and and tell them you want a new rack installed.

 

There is a GM rep that is on these boards. Maybe she can help you with the TSB number.

 

Having the TSB number is always helpful, but, if the TSB number, you supplied, starts off with dealer being instructed to do a dye test first, then if it were me, I would let them do as the TSB, that I told them to look up, says. No reason you can not just wait while they clean the area(if needed) and add the dye. Checking in a couple of days to see where the leak is from is something else you should be able to wait for. If it is determined to require a rack, ask to leave the vehicle at that time, and ask for a loaner while they do the repair.

 

Being pushy right away with any human being will generally result in you not getting anything done. You should build up to being upset, not start that way.

Posted

Having the TSB number is always helpful, but, if the TSB number, you supplied, starts off with dealer being instructed to do a dye test first, then if it were me, I would let them do as the TSB, that I told them to look up, says. No reason you can not just wait while they clean the area(if needed) and add the dye. Checking in a couple of days to see where the leak is from is something else you should be able to wait for. If it is determined to require a rack, ask to leave the vehicle at that time, and ask for a loaner while they do the repair.

 

Being pushy right away with any human being will generally result in you not getting anything done. You should build up to being upset, not start that way.

 

Yes in fact the leak does make sense, and it has been documented many times, even on this board. The leak is slow enough to not lower the level in the power steering reservoir noticeably in a short time, but it would lower over a long amount of time. We are talking months to years. Not sure why that's so hard to understand.

 

It's very obvious where this leak is coming from, any competent tech would be able to tell without wasting time with a dye test. The leak is slow enough that the dye takes a few weeks to work through the system and highlight the leak. It's stated very clearly in the TSB if seepage is found at the rack adjuster plug to replace rack assembly. If the OP wants to wait for the dye test, more power to you. I'm giving you my experience, no where did i mention to be pushy or out of hand. Just giving you the information you need to get the repair done right and in reasonable time. Do with it what you will.

Posted

Yes in fact the leak does make sense, and it has been documented many times, even on this board. The leak is slow enough to not lower the level in the power steering reservoir noticeably in a short time, but it would lower over a long amount of time. We are talking months to years. Not sure why that's so hard to understand.

 

It's very obvious where this leak is coming from, any competent tech would be able to tell without wasting time with a dye test. The leak is slow enough that the dye takes a few weeks to work through the system and highlight the leak. It's stated very clearly in the TSB if seepage is found at the rack adjuster plug to replace rack assembly. If the OP wants to wait for the dye test, more power to you. I'm giving you my experience, no where did i mention to be pushy or out of hand. Just giving you the information you need to get the repair done right and in reasonable time. Do with it what you will.

 

Anytime you TELL someone to do something(your words were "tell them you want a new rack installed"), it is being pushy. When you tell someone something you are taking control of the conversation. To me your suggestion was to not let them do any less than change the rack. To me, that is being pushy. By the third time you say I want a new rack, in response to them saying they are dong a dye test first, your voice will no longer be at a normal level.

 

I actually suggested that if the TSB instructed the tech to perform a dye check first, then that is what I would do. Note that I said "if the TSB instructed the tech to perform a dye check first". I did not suggest that the tech should do a test first.

 

It does not matter if the dye takes an hour or a year to show the leak. Point is, the issue is reported, and documented by those that matter. OP is protected by that documentation,

Posted

It really isn't a big deal, you take the truck in they diagnose the problem, they order parts, you wait a few days, then boom! You have yourself a non leaking rack and pinion. When I took in my 2011 they did a diagnosis without the dye, but I do realize that depending on your dealership they will or will not choose to do the dye test. Another response some have gotten from their tech is that it is residual from the assembly, " eventually it will stop leaking", its only lubricant from the initial assembly, and well in some cases it has stopped leaking or so I've read on this and another forum. From what I've read and my own experience is that the only fix is to out right replace the rack and pinion, they will replace it.

 

Only reason I would get pushy would be if they gave me that " it'll eventually stop" bs, but my dealership did not, so no need to push or get angry, like it has been mentioned before don't tell the tech what his job is or what to do, just tell him or the service advisor what you see and that you want it fixed…

Posted

Does anyone think having custom rims will be an issue?

 

Stock was 20x8.0 (+30mm) replaced with 22x9.5 (+34).

 

My tire size is 285x45x22, the same GM offers in an upgrade @ time of order or purchase.

Posted

TSB 07-02-32-002M.

Thank you so much for the information :)

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,972
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Whit.the.COB
    Newest Member
    Whit.the.COB
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,140 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Yep! This should be a pin somewhere as @pgamboa really dives into all of this. Thanks for reposting the link!
    • I did the new thermostat after doing a 'flip' for a year. Runs as cool one way as the other in the summer but in the winter there is a bit of a floor. Yellow with the new 70 C thermostat. My data over the life of the unit to date. Still need more cooler. Anyway that floor helped both winter fuel economy and shift quality in the winter. I found it a good balance.       
    • Evan Williams Bottled in Bond   So pouring the last of a bottle of Evan Williams Black label last night I set off the the state store for a refill only to be denied the by an empty shelf. Rats.    What the did have was a bottle of Evan Williams Bottled in Bond. 100 proof. Hum, a few bucks more but a known distiller. Lets have a swing at it. ( I have before )    Cracked it open and pour a serving over ice. Hum.... more heat, yes. More alcohol naturally. But the barreling not the proof brings the taste and this one came up short.    Oh is was familiar but the heat ran the barrel over like a Peterbilt runs over a squirrel. Could use a heavier toasting of the oak me thinks or perhaps a longer barreling. Who knows. But what I can say is ice or a water back isn't the answer. What kills one kills them both. Sad. It is a pleasant drink....if you have little to compare it to.  
    • I've had exactly one set of Bridgestone. Lasted five year and 125,000 miles and had I known better 15oK would have been a cake walk. I would have bought a like set had they not tripled in price since the first set. I removed them at said mileage with 5/32" remaining in dead even wear all four. They were fuel efficient, quite, comfortable and predictable.    Early on I got a very good alignment checked at least once a year, sometimes twice; kept the tires properly inflated, balanced and rotated. And I've found that many a tire issue can be avoided with great maintenance practices. Lot's of tire dealers will do rotation and balance (simple) for free for as long as you own the tire they sold you so no excuse not to.    Bead prep, alloy integrity and stem health have a huge impact on inflation stability. There are more mountings done poorly that perfectly. Finding a good tire guy is gold and as important as finding a tire you like.    That 3X price increase now two sets of "other tires' later is starting look like a bargain.      Bad maintenance kills more tires than bad tires. 
    • Atlas, you kill me As aggravating as a project like this can be you have been unable to hide your fascination with learning and using that angst against this beast like a Ninjitsu Master. It amuses you, admit it now.      BTW, love your writing style. 😉       
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...