Jump to content

Finding a .410 around here is like trying to win the lottery :-(

6Sixathome

By 6Sixathome
in The Off-Topic Bar

Recommended Posts

mossbum Enthusiast

mossbum

Posted
Posted

I have an 1187 12 gauge premier that's about 25 years old and it has never even had a hiccup. Bought a brand new 1187 supermag waterfowl two years ago and it has already been in once for warranty work. I bet that 20 will be a nice shooting gun but the price seems a little high.

6Sixathome Enthusiast

6Sixathome

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Is the 11-87 a good gun?, I mean I don't want ejecting and reloading issues in the middle of a shoot. I know it can happen and any gun can have issues but the new ones look pretty bullit proof, haha. I just hate to drop the coin and have a POS :M16:

mossbum Enthusiast

mossbum

Posted
Posted

Is the 11-87 a good gun?, I mean I don't want ejecting and reloading issues in the middle of a shoot. I know it can happen and any gun can have issues but the new ones look pretty bullit proof, haha. I just hate to drop the coin and have a POS :M16:

Well my old one has never ever even hiccuped. After the ejection issues with the new one I did some deep googling and discovered that some of the manufacturing processes on the new ones have been outsourced to Russian companies. It's waiting for me to pick it up at UPS tomorrow so hopefully whatever the internal issues were have been corrected.

Swazimoto Enthusiast

Swazimoto

Posted
Posted

Dave -

Have you considered a 20 gauge? I work with youth and guns and we have found that a 20 gauge with 2 3/4" shells has similar or less kick than a 3" .410 round. The other major benefit is 20 gauge ammunition is readily available and way cheaper than .410. I have both and frequently have my son carry the 20 gauge only because of shell availability. Lastly, I purchase many firearms from gunbroker.com. You can typically save 20% using this site but you do need to find an FFL to have the gun shipped to. They have many .410's to choose from.

 

 

Good luck,

Chris

mossbum Enthusiast

mossbum

Posted
Posted

Dave -

Have you considered a 20 gauge? I work with youth and guns and we have found that a 20 gauge with 2 3/4" shells has similar or less kick than a 3" .410 round. The other major benefit is 20 gauge ammunition is readily available and way cheaper than .410. I have both and frequently have my son carry the 20 gauge only because of shell availability. Lastly, I purchase many firearms from gunbroker.com. You can typically save 20% using this site but you do need to find an FFL to have the gun shipped to. They have many .410's to choose from.

 

 

Good luck,

 

Chris

I give gunbroker two thumbs up. Bought my last two shotguns on there and had them shipped to a local pawn shop for a $20 fee.

6Sixathome Enthusiast

6Sixathome

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I did/still am considering a 20ga 11-87, it's just that I never shot a 20ga and wasn't for sure on the recoil for the family. I was thinking .410 because I had one when I was a kid and it was super easy and fun to shoot.

 

Just looked at Gunbroker.com and it looks like a gun lovers dream :thumbs:

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,915
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ChristopherDobson
    Newest Member
    ChristopherDobson
    Joined

  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,012 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • ChristopherDobson
      Vehicle Payments

      By ChristopherDobson · Posted

      Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • jake111
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By jake111 · Posted

      Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • davester
      cam upgrade in CA

      By davester · Posted

      apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
    • davester
      Possible lifter tick after DOD delete

      By davester · Posted

      yes, leaking exhaust will mess up o2 sensor readings, which in turn messes up fuel trims.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...