Jump to content

Truck jerks to left while driving.

TimoSLT

By TimoSLT
in Ask A GM Technician

Recommended Posts

Doug_Scott Senior Enthusiast

Doug_Scott

Posted
Posted

Is it possible to run a shorter belt and bypass power steering pump? Not sure if the cost of a new belt is any savings from having a professional check the rack out.

TimoSLT Enthusiast

TimoSLT

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well i'm almost 100% sure I found my problem, The Passenger side CV Shaft apart on me thursday night. ( outboard joint )

 

I removed the broken section, left the stub in the hub, and replaced it the assembly saturday afternoon with a new CV shaft.

 

I had no indication that the joint was failing, no clicking, no unusual noises, no torn boot or grease flung every wear, no unusual movement when i checked the front end this week. I had the front end in the air, spun the wheels straight and at full left and right turn, forward and backwards.

 

With the CV shaft removed i didn't get the jerk to the left anymore that day, it jerked a few time in a row right before it came apart!

i was surprised to see that the boot held all the ball bearings and cage inside of it, so no extra damage was done.

 

Thanks for all the input and suggestions. You guys have been a great help.

 

Cheers

 

Tim

Doug_Scott Senior Enthusiast

Doug_Scott

Posted
Posted

Would not expect a failing CV joint to be the cause of sudden pull to one side. Even if the CV joints were causing the right side wheel/axle to slow down, that would cause the truck to go to the right, not left.

Hopefully this was the cause of the pull.

TimoSLT Enthusiast

TimoSLT

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Would not expect a failing CV joint to be the cause of sudden pull to one side. Even if the CV joints were causing the right side wheel/axle to slow down, that would cause the truck to go to the right, not left.

Hopefully this was the cause of the pull.

 

I did not suspect a failing CV joint to cause something like this either. Maybe it's not my issue, but it came apart anyways. it has not done the jerk motion since i took the CV shaft out and installed the new one... cross my fingers that's what it was.

 

Thanks again you guys.

 

I'll keep you posted on what happens if it comes back.

 

 

Cheers and Merry Christmas

 

 

Tim

  • 2 weeks later...
95z71performer Enthusiast

95z71performer

Posted
Posted

If it's lifted then maybe it's the infamous death wobble but a little more controllable then what I've seen where it jerks back and forth

  • 1 month later...
Blown03 Enthusiast

Blown03

Posted
Posted

I know this is a kinda old thread but I'm having a VERY similar issue only jerking to the right. 07 NBS silverado, 72k miles. Driving straight, turns, doesn't seem to matter, I get a random "jerk" in the wheel, pulls hard to the right. I do have an APT at the dealer in the morning, but just kinda wanted to research the topic some. I assume your truck is still running well since the CV repair?

 

Thx,

 

Dan

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Transmission Temperature Hitting 220s

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Most thermostatically controlled ATF systems use a 'wax' pill just like the one in your water thermostat. They work on the expansion volume of the wax and the pill is constructed in such a way as to limit the travel to remain within that range. This means it has an opening temperature often called the 'cracking temperature' and a fully open temperature. For whatever reason oil is designated by it's fully open temperature and water by it's cracking temperature.    Between the two it the "Regulating Temperature" The entire range is about 20 F from closed to open. In your example the lower limit, opening point of 145 F then has a fully open temp of 165 F and a throttling temperature of 155 F.    Thing is, the throttling temperature needs two things to work properly. Enough system load high enough to reach the minimum and a heat sink (cooler/exchanger) large enough to prevent any load applied from exceeding the fully open temperature.    If your system exceeds the fully open temperature it is screaming MORE COOLER.    Here is the silly part of the whole thermostat system where the oil is cooled/heated by the radiator. Nothing is flowing to that system until the oil temperature reaches the cracking temperature unless it is equipped with a minimum flow bypass orifice or a bypass built into the seating surface of the plunger. That system meant to get it up to temp quicker isn't doing a thing until WORK drives if from ambient to cracking temp. One a cold winter day, like zero F, it may never get hotter than about 110 F. Sometimes not even that.    People forget or are young enough to not know that until this millennia transmissions were cooled by the radiator cold tank alone and without a thermostat at all.  In the 50's they weren't even cooled. OEMs learn everything the hard way.    When an OEM tells you the trans "Works best" between 175 F and 220 F it means works best for THEM. The transmission thermostat is fuel play. If you watch you trans temps like I do you will learn that it may take a hundred miles if you are not towing and not driving more than say 55-60 mph on a zero F day to even reach 120 F and it might sit there all day if it's colder. Yet if functions perfectly over about 100 F. It may need to get a bit warmer for the fuel and spark maps to go without an multiplier.    Worry more about too hot. Use a cooler large enough to put that thermostat in range.         
    • KARNUT
      Gas Prices

      By KARNUT · Posted

      Around 2008 if memory serves they took sulfur out. That was when diesel went up. 
    • richard wysong
      Gas Prices

      By richard wysong · Posted

      Question for you Grumpy, why is diesel so much more than gasoline? Seems to me that it may be slightly a little less refined than gas and it doesn't have 10% alcohol which presumably lowers the price of gas
    • TrueBlue
      Transmission Temperature Hitting 220s

      By TrueBlue · Posted

      Thanks, so being a different beast altogether, anyone know what the "optimal" temp is for the 10L80/90 for proper shifting?
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      How many years have I pointed out every point in that link to the folks here and been avalanched with criticisms and outright hostilities at times? I ran counter to even the great CUSTOMBOSS and Lake Speed Jr and the half dozen experts on YouTube and in the final.....GM, Physics (Stribeck) backs that Grumpy old Bear.    Honestly, I never said a thing engineering hadn't studied silly and laid in concrete during WWII. But I'm old, the information is old and yet, the Laws of Physics are eternal.    Okay there is one exception. I vehemently disagree with their use of the word 'tolerances' when what it meant is "clearance".   The clearance is the distance between two objects. The tolerance is the degree of acceptable variation permitted in that clearance. I.E., piston to bore clearance is 0.004" with a tolerance of +/- .0002" so the clearance is in specification if it lies between 0.0038" and 0.0042". Cutting that 'tolerance in half has ZERO impact on lubrication requirements. Makes for more difficulty in manufacturing.  But a tighter clearance 'MAY'. Depends on finish. Anyway....   It's one of those statements made by people to make themselves look smarter than they are to convince people who are as un-enlighten as they seem to manipulate their behaviors. But hey, the blind leading the blind puts them both in the pit. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...