Jump to content

LED Front Light Bars & Pods

svtkidd23

By svtkidd23
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

Kerrslight Enthusiast

Kerrslight

Posted
Posted

Finally adjusted my light bar. It is now centered in the grill and there should be little to no blocked light output. I will try to get some output pictures tonight.

 

Before adjustment

 

2e225560097bf28fbcc65999eb52f2b5.jpg

9a22d8a3b0d364491dfddde51229175b.jpg

 

After adjustment

 

fe3c48d509b311c4700cebbad6066662.jpg

77dbf35ad73a362c6b8ccd397bf6285e.jpg

  • Like 2
  • Replies 1.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Jon A
Jon A

A double row works well behind the Denali grill. Here's my 30" curved Totron:                 The LED's are 1" appart and the rows of holes in the grill just happen to be 1" ap

MotoMedic
MotoMedic

The correct term is "illegal commodities broker" thank you!   I actually work for an oil company, which is similar because both businesses provide highly desired products at artificially inflated

Danthaman69
Danthaman69

Here it is.

Posted Images

agentf Enthusiast

agentf

Posted
Posted

I would like to wire my light bar so that it would:

 

1. Turn on and off with HighBeam (this is easy - tap into the headlight + to "trigger" the relay)

2. Also be able to turn on and off with an aux switch even when the high beams aren't on.

3. have that same aux switch also turn off the light bar when the high beams are ON

 

Is this possible?

 

I know I can do #1 and #2 rather easy. but not sure how to do #3.

NitroDatsik Senior Enthusiast

NitroDatsik

Posted
Posted (edited)

I would like to wire my light bar so that it would:

 

1. Turn on and off with HighBeam (this is easy - tap into the headlight + to "trigger" the relay)

2. Also be able to turn on and off with an aux switch even when the high beams aren't on.

3. have that same aux switch also turn off the light bar when the high beams are ON

 

Is this possible?

 

I know I can do #1 and #2 rather easy. but not sure how to do #3.

Yes, you will need a relay to draw power from the battery and a diode that will connect between the relay wire that powers the light and the high beam wire. I think lol. I'll link you to my video I did something similar but power reverse lights with reverse plus with a switch.

 

 

 

2014 Silverado 2WT CC Summit White 4.3L V6

DROPKICK Edition

IG: jorge_dropkick_rangel

Edited by NitroDatsik
agentf Enthusiast

agentf

Posted
Posted

Yes, you will need a relay to draw power from the battery and a diode that will connect between the relay wire that powers the light and the high beam wire. I think lol. I'll link you to my video I did something similar but power reverse lights with reverse plus with a switch.

 

 

 

2014 Silverado 2WT CC Summit White 4.3L V6

DROPKICK Edition

IG: jorge_dropkick_rangel

 

 

Hmm I believe you accomplished #1 and #2 but can you turn the lights off when you are in reveres?

NitroDatsik Senior Enthusiast

NitroDatsik

Posted
Posted (edited)

 

Hmm I believe you accomplished #1 and #2 but can you turn the lights off when you are in reveres?

No, I think for that you will need a on/off/on switch. Top on could be on with relay, off is off no matter what, and bottom on would be for when you want it on with the reverse lights.

 

2014 Silverado 2WT CC Summit White 4.3L V6

DROPKICK Edition

IG: jorge_dropkick_rangel

Edited by NitroDatsik
chrises08 Enthusiast

chrises08

Posted
Posted

Just installed the T-Rex hood brackets and a set of Rigid D2 driving lights. Install was easy and fast and the brackets hold the lights securely. Definitely recommend them to anyone wanting to do the same.

 

Question, I have a Spod controller with their new touch screen switch panel. In looking at my truck it seems its not going to be easy fishing a line through the main wire harness grommet in the engine bay. From the inside of the truck there is so much stuff in front of it I can't even get my hand behind to feel it. Any suggestions or help? It should also be noted that I have to fish a headphone style jack with a 90* bend at the end.

 

I also see some people have suggested going in through the rubber grommet in the door jamb. Seems like an easier install and appears it can be done cleanly and without and pinching of the wire. Any reason not to do this?

 

 

on those trex brackets.. do they fold up with the hood when u raise the hood?

 

also do you think you could use them to mount a long light bar across the hood instead of just doing pods?

Kerrslight Enthusiast

Kerrslight

Posted
Posted

 

 

on those trex brackets.. do they fold up with the hood when u raise the hood?

 

also do you think you could use them to mount a long light bar across the hood instead of just doing pods?

Your kidding about wanting to mount a light bar across the hood right?

chrises08 Enthusiast

chrises08

Posted
Posted

lol why not? people mount them in the grilles, at the top of the windshield and everywhere else it seems.

Kerrslight Enthusiast

Kerrslight

Posted
Posted

lol why not? people mount them in the grilles, at the top of the windshield and everywhere else it seems.

 

Hey thats your deal. I think putting one on a roof looks bad enough, but I don't think anyone has ever put on across the hood. I personally think that would ruin the classy look of a truck.

NitroDatsik Senior Enthusiast

NitroDatsik

Posted
Posted

 

Hey thats your deal. I think putting one on a roof looks bad enough, but I don't think anyone has ever put on across the hood. I personally think that would ruin the classy look of a truck.

I've only seen jeeps do this, but I think you would get to much glare from the hood when the light is on.

 

2014 Silverado 2WT CC Summit White 4.3L V6

DROPKICK Edition

IG: jorge_dropkick_rangel

Herd Thinners Enthusiast

Herd Thinners

Posted
Posted

For the ridgid Amber combo.

1. Being the bar switches from white to amber will the wireless remote work.

2. If I link it to the Intel link garage door button will it work maybe push once white push a second Amber third off. I'm asking I have no idea.

3. I read someone doing the cig lighter center console install has anyone else. Wonder how extensive or a pain it is.

 

Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

Kerrslight Enthusiast

Kerrslight

Posted
Posted

A 30 inch bar obviously fits under the grill of the GMC Sierra my question is does it have to be curved or does the straight bar fit nicely also. Just getting ready to drop the hammer

Curved and straight both fit fine. I've had both and in my experience I much prefer the curved. Wider spot pattern and it sits up closer to the grill so you lose less light output. The straight one I had behind my AT grill lost a good amount of light since it was not up against the grill.

 

There's a lot more info on the thread I created. "LED bar behind All-Terrain grill"

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,947
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Sothpaw27
    Newest Member
    Sothpaw27
    Joined

  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 473 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • nfisherman
      Software Update

      By nfisherman · Posted

      Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...