Jump to content

LED Front Light Bars & Pods

svtkidd23

By svtkidd23
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 1.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Jon A
Jon A

A double row works well behind the Denali grill. Here's my 30" curved Totron:                 The LED's are 1" appart and the rows of holes in the grill just happen to be 1" ap

MotoMedic
MotoMedic

The correct term is "illegal commodities broker" thank you!   I actually work for an oil company, which is similar because both businesses provide highly desired products at artificially inflated

Danthaman69
Danthaman69

Here it is.

Posted Images

440hsp Enthusiast

440hsp

Posted
Posted

Thanks!!

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

calgator73 Senior Enthusiast

calgator73

Posted
Posted

Installed my 30" single row behind the grill yesterday. I need to get some pictures of the finished product with everything back on and the light on, etc. but you get the picture.

 

12a3564006a254268711bdf8fc46edf9.jpg

dcc6c4255db4004f3dec8719b9373260.jpg

60f50319eff8f354633a835211b5c3a4.jpg

Looking to do something similar on my Sierra hd. Have you noticed any increased temps?

 

Sent from my LGLS990 using Tapatalk

Kerrslight Enthusiast

Kerrslight

Posted
Posted

Looking to do something similar on my Sierra hd. Have you noticed any increased temps?

 

Sent from my LGLS990 using Tapatalk

 

None at all. The radiator still gets plenty of air flow. As you can see in the pic, the AT grill is vented so even with that one gap covered up, still plenty of air getting to the radiator.

Kerrslight Enthusiast

Kerrslight

Posted
Posted

Thanks...got any night pics?

 

Sent from my LGLS990 using Tapatalk

 

Well if you look back a page, you'll see that I swapped out the single row for a double row light bar. The single row wasn't as bright as I thought it would be. I am going to take some output pictures of the new one this weekend and post them up.

 

Here's what I've got from the single row.

 

55W 5000K Hid Lows

FA67AB33-45DE-4AFE-8E37-F745D7DB1976.jpg

 

High's

3C1F9948-1F68-44DC-8DA5-B73789CCF027.jpg

 

Lows and Light Bar

3A4D72CE-175E-453F-8B39-16590FADD10A.jpg

calgator73 Senior Enthusiast

calgator73

Posted
Posted (edited)

Looks like the lows with bar are about the same as the highs by themselves? Thank you!

 

Sent from my LGLS990 using Tapatalk

Edited by calgator73
Kerrslight Enthusiast

Kerrslight

Posted
Posted

Looks like the lows with bar are about the same as the highs by themselves? Thank you!

 

Sent from my LGLS990 using Tapatalk

 

It appears so in the picture yes, but I can tell you the light bar puts out much more light than the headlights do. These were taken with my iPhone so not the best pictures.

 

I will say that the new bar I installed completely blows this one out of the water.

Herd Thinners Enthusiast

Herd Thinners

Posted
Posted

I have a few questions. I am going to install the e30 ridged spot/combo a/w. I do not want to cut into my dash so my alternatives:

wireless or garage door opener link with the wireless connection or install a switch in one of the cigarette outlets in the center consol.

 

1. Being the bar switches from white to amber will the wireless remote work.

2. If I link it to the Intel link garage door button will it work maybe push once white push a second Amber third off. I'm asking I have no idea.

3. I read someone doing the cig lighter center console install has anyone else. Wonder how extensive or a pain it is.

 

Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

Kerrslight Enthusiast

Kerrslight

Posted
Posted

Adding the final touches... I ordered it from Steve www.sneveysoffroad.com 20inch highlander trail series with the combo beam. The install wasnt as bad as i planned till wiring the relay and switch.. Finished product evynybev.jpg Removing grill was a BITCH... Be prepared to cuss and drink like a fish. Step one.. Open hood. Pull tabs out that hold the plastic overlay. Than there is 4x 10mm screws. Take those out... Next go in the wheel well take 2x 7or 8mm screws out. (this holds the painted peice above your bumper on) pull edges off till it reaches headlights. Now.. Slide under the head first under the bumper.. Above license plate there is painted to match clips push them with a flat head and wrap end of painted peice... There is 4x more bolts on bottom of grill a9umy4u8.jpgbyve8uje.jpg6aqu6e3a.jpg Now i used a dremel to cut slots for the mounting arm here apu8avut.jpg Drilled holes and mounted.. Perfectly LET THERE BE LIGHT!! THE ehare5uj.jpgyqahudub.jpg High beams and fogs.. (did that to) any3upa2.jpg You can compare that to just light bar. Heres all together su9u5ere.jpg Now the best part... I'm not drilling into a 40k trucks interior... Chevy made my dah here. I just pushed my toggled switch into here.. Holds Extremely tight.. Ran wires under panel under steering wheel out the hood popper. ydu7azub.jpg3ega8e9y.jpg

 

 

has anybody put a light bar behind a LTZ model?

 

This is post #1 in this thread. Idk if that helps you at all.

Willie will Enthusiast

Willie will

Posted
Posted (edited)

that's a LT grill.. I think if I get a light bar behind the grill, I don't think you would see that much light come through.

Edited by Willie will
Kerrslight Enthusiast

Kerrslight

Posted
Posted

What does your grill look like? I'm pretty sure I've seen a light bar behind just about every silverado/sierra when I was doing research for mine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • KARNUT
      OCI, not when but why?

      By KARNUT · Posted

      For some unexplained reason my father wanted a salvage yard. As we were getting the family business off the ground one brother ran the salvage yard. We gathered there when rained out working on pipelines in the eighties to pull parts. Perfectly good running vehicles would come to us simply because they wouldn’t pass emissions inspection. We were able to swap parts and sell some of them. I got a clean old nova with a bad engine. I pulled a perfectly good small block out a Camaro. A father and son project with a rebuilt engine. The son couldn’t get the engine running right. The problem was the spark plugs weren’t gapped. The 90s vehicles probably widened the gap of shade tree do it yourself engine repair. My do it yourself hot rod repair stopped at the 70s. After that my trusted mechanic kept them in running shape. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      I have an old dental chair in my shop. Something I got for free and apparently it has more than scrap value? People collect them although mine isn't restored or anything. It's visually interesting (1930's Ritter) which is why I like it. And it IS decently comfortable if you kick back.   When a good buddy of mine saw it he said, let me guess, Atlas. It's a conversation piece? As in, you ask the questions, they do the talking?   Where do you hide the jar of teeth?   I would never.   
    • Atlas
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Atlas · Posted

      Are we talking about the same thing, though? The 7 versus 3 wear metals was from Lakespeed's 3.0-specific oil brand comparison test between AcDelco oil and Mobil ESP. The filter remains a constant so whatever excess particles the AcDelco oil is producing aren't being filtered out.   I'm assuming there's a parallel comparison to be made; IF the filter can filter down those particles, engine life increases, and your graph makes the case that a better filter (lower micron rating) can increase engine life. Introducing fewer particles AND filtering those particles with higher efficiency is the best of all worlds. Good oil, good filter.   Where we may disagree is the "baseline relative engine life". I'm more apt to believe the base engine life value is 200k+ on very average oil and filters, "bulk oil of unknown brand and white-label generic fleet-grade filter, Jiffy Lube"   Going from a 10 micron filter to a 5 micron filter should boost a base 200k to 275k in a vacuum as a single factor alone.   Here's the whatabout: How does regularly changing the oil and filter ahead of recommended schedule influence baseline engine life? Most people aren't going to science the heck out of this stuff or ask about Micron ratings, HTHS, or wear comparison tests at Jiffy Lube. Most of the Jiffy lube techs would say they need to call their tech support line to even try to get an answer.   --   Because we love anecdotes here, when I was fishing for 4.3 parts at a local yard this weekend, ALL of the 4.3 vehicles had well over 200k. I love looking at odometers of junked vehicles. How far did THIS go before landing at the crusher? The ones that still had engines weren't seized. None of them were vehicles I'd consider were Amsoil queens, in fact most of them had some kind of service cling-sticker in the corner of the windshield indicating it probably had very average maintenance services. Even the fresh parts rigs- I'm not sure taking an S/T series to 400k has much value considering the running value of those vehicles was probably somewhere around $1,000. 25+ years is a good run on time alone.   The intake manifold I salvaged had clean and bright pool areas. As expected, I found the fuel lines in the manifold rubbed through, just like mine. I'm guessing the lines on that donor truck started leaking, the truck started running rough, and its owner said that's enough I'm unwilling or can't take it out of service for several days, or spend $1000+ to repair it at a shop, it's simply time for a newer more reliable vehicle (or, more than likely, this is the 2nd, 3rd time this has happened in the truck's lifetime). While I don't count on my Blazer for reliability, the thought of giving it away for parts at certain points during my adventure, and being mentally free from its needs has has crossed my mind. I'd be losing $1500 or so, but I can only make more money; not time.
    • diyer2
      Gas Prices

      By diyer2 · Posted

      still $4.00 85 oct.
    • Mike@SolerPrf
      2021+ Tahoe Suburban Yukon Escalade Throttle Body and DLX Controller

      By Mike@SolerPrf · Posted

      Always here to help. Discount Code: TIFF5OFF

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...