Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

The issue I'm having is on a 2003 Silverado, 5.3 LS. Not long ago I had my PCM updated/reflashed and since then my 4wd-HI will randomly engage while I am moving at decent speeds. Once 4wd-HI engages, the only way I can get out of it is by going to AUTO then 2wd, but even then it will not work sometimes. When switching back does not work, I can feel 4wd-HI disengage from the front wheels, but the 2wd light will continue to blink and shortly after switch back to 4wdicon1.png. It's been happening more often and I'm afraid it will one day switch to 4wd-LOW at high speeds and grenade my differential transfercase.

I've read that it could be the controlicon1.png panel, but when it happens all the lights continue to work and I am not getting any dash 4x4 service message. The other is the encoder, but before I spend the money and time I'd like to get some more opinions from those more knowledgeable and experienced than me.

Thanks

Posted

Just paid $500 to replace my second bad actuator today. The problem starts as intermittent 4WD engagement and then it will not move back to 2WD.

 

You need to engage the actuator into 4WD every couple of months to keep it working properly is what Carl Black Mech told me today.

 

I joined this site today to learn how to change actuator myself next time. Good luck.

Posted

The issue I'm having is on a 2003 Silverado, 5.3 LS. Not long ago I had my PCM updated/reflashed and since then my 4wd-HI will randomly engage while I am moving at decent speeds. Once 4wd-HI engages, the only way I can get out of it is by going to AUTO then 2wd, but even then it will not work sometimes. When switching back does not work, I can feel 4wd-HI disengage from the front wheels, but the 2wd light will continue to blink and shortly after switch back to 4wdicon1.png. It's been happening more often and I'm afraid it will one day switch to 4wd-LOW at high speeds and grenade my differential transfercase.

 

I've read that it could be the controlicon1.png panel, but when it happens all the lights continue to work and I am not getting any dash 4x4 service message. The other is the encoder, but before I spend the money and time I'd like to get some more opinions from those more knowledgeable and experienced than me.

 

Thanks

ya dont go and throw parts at the computor controled t case ,,,,t case will not shift into 4 lo at speed ,,,,

 

you scan scan it for giggles and go from there ,no guessing

 

 

programming PCM has nothing to do with the TCCM

 

do not guess

Posted

Another instance in which I'm glad I got the lever actuated transfer case. Admittedly this isn't a very helpful comment.

Posted

Another instance in which I'm glad I got the lever actuated transfer case. Admittedly this isn't a very helpful comment.

agreed !!!

 

unfortunately people have stated that they like hitting little buttons,,,,car makers have provided this ,,,,at a cost when it chards the bed ,,

Posted

Just paid $500 to replace my second bad actuator today. The problem starts as intermittent 4WD engagement and then it will not move back to 2WD.

 

You need to engage the actuator into 4WD every couple of months to keep it working properly is what Carl Black Mech told me today.

 

I joined this site today to learn how to change actuator myself next time. Good luck.

second paragraph is out to lunch ,,never heard such nonsense in awhile lol

Posted

 

What did you do to fix it?

I wish that I had better info on it. I sold the truck a few months back and now I drive a 14'. I had the receipts from the dealership also. I remember the first time that it happened I was driving on a lonely Hwy in the middle of Arizona. I drove it to a Chevy dealer and they replaced some sort of electronics ($600 worth). The next time it happened I was in my driveway. I thought that I was going to have to get a tow truck to get me to the dealer, because I was unable to get it out of four wheel drive. After I went into reverse, drive, reverse drive a few times it finally worked. I took it to the dealership the next day and they replaced the same electronics (another $600). At the time, I just paid it and went on about my life, so I couldn't tell you the exact details. I do know that that was my only problem with that truck for the 141,000 that I put on it before selling it. Sorry I couldn't be of any better help.

Posted

The actuator is easy to remove and diagnos. Seach on here for procedure.

he should really scan it first instead of doing ^^^^^^^^^^^^ maybe get pointed in the right direction ,,,

 

please dont tell people what to do before any codes are posted ,,,they WILL get side tracked and may spend money on misinformation ,,,,we cannot do that unless 100% confident

Posted (edited)

he should really scan it first instead of doing ^^^^^^^^^^^^ maybe get pointed in the right direction ,,,

 

please dont tell people what to do before any codes are posted ,,,they WILL get side tracked and may spend money on misinformation ,,,,we cannot do that unless 100% confident

To be honest, it costs me less than half to replace the encoder ring than it is to have it scanned by a dealer. If I am wrong, then I still saved $55, since it can only be one other thing.

 

On the other hand, I refuse to pay $100 to simply find out what's broken on my vehicle. There is no reason with todays technology that you should need a multi-thousand dollar calculator to recieve system errors/faults. Not only that, but it allows mechanics to falsley state what is wrong with your vehicle. rather than you knowing directly before you visit. It really should be illegal in this day and age.

 

Imagine if Microsoft or Apple charged you $100 to display error codes on your computer or phone. There would be riots.

Edited by jcoast
Posted

he should really scan it first instead of doing ^^^^^^^^^^^^ maybe get pointed in the right direction ,,,

 

please dont tell people what to do before any codes are posted ,,,they WILL get side tracked and may spend money on misinformation ,,,,we cannot do that unless 100% confident

I didnt tell him to replace it, I was saying the actuator is an easy part to troubleshoot.

Posted

To be honest, it costs me less than half to replace the encoder ring than it is to have it scanned by a dealer. If I am wrong, then I still saved $55, since it can only be one other thing.

 

On the other hand, I refuse to pay $100 to simply find out what's broken on my vehicle. There is no reason with todays technology that you should need a multi-thousand dollar calculator to recieve system errors/faults. Not only that, but it allows mechanics to falsley state what is wrong with your vehicle. rather than you knowing directly before you visit. It really should be illegal in this day and age.

 

Imagine if Microsoft or Apple charged you $100 to display error codes on your computer or phone. There would be riots.

Youre lucky at $100, my two nearest dealers charge $150

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • You must have that upgraded gvw package which is only available or at least was in 2025 with the diesel engine for the 3/4 ton and that gave the truck physically the larger 12.0 ring gear rear diff and the 3500 rear spring pack. There is a difference in what the diff housing looks like externally as one tell tale and also your truck should have the upper overload spring pack and the frame pads that the pack goes up against.    The pressure the tpms system kicks the alarm in on a stock setting truck, that is a good question and was just from what I recall but I doubt I made any notes on it as I knew for the rear that it was not at all what I was after regardless either. Being that you have a diesel and if running on stock tires the minimum pressure on an empty truck seems to be around 50 psi from hearing of those that have weighted the front axle but the rear axle is very similar in weight to a gas truck and again a near empty truck on the rear could go down to 35 pounds at minimum. However the weigh scale is the proper way to know for sure as a guide.    As to changing the readings on the dash from metric to the US measuring system, oh yes that is done easily but what I was attempting to explain was that I can't pick and choose items I want to have in US and those I still want in the metric system at the same time as its either all or none. For example lets say you drove into Canada and switched your dash over to metric so your speedometer read in km an hour, well then your reading kilopascals on your tpms readout and your wife looks over and says what the hell is that saying in the tpms screen and you say "darned if I know, I think its Chinese" !
    • This is partly why I decided to have switched over to Amsoil SS as a way of hopefully preventing the buildup of the sludge/carbon on the pistons and clogging of the oil control rings and the carbon that would cause the compression rings to stick in their grooves as well as stay cleaner up top of the heads in the valve train in the first place, an oil that has tested better by third party testing over typical shelf oil and also doing my best to run relatively short OCI. However in saying that I don't think there is any way to easily prove the oil I was using prior allowed for a buildup at the OCI I was doing, nor in the other direction to make claims the Amsoil is keeping everything clean either. There really isn't a window into the engine is there to know anything for certain even if oil samples were taken for example that showed still healthy oil being dropped out of the oil pan other than engine tear downs that extensive and expensive testing of oils does to actually visually see what is really going on inside the engine. I wish there was some easy method of seeing what is going on but I don't happen to be aware of that if there is.  
    • My truck is a ¾ ton but my placard also says 80 for the rear tires, I think I might have the upgraded suspension to the 3500 series maybe.   I put my air down to 60 and the light was still on, and there was no way I was putting over 60 psi in the rear empty and not towing because I knew the actual number Toyo gave me and I didn't wanna ruin the center of my tires!   And you actually can change it in the settings from metric or is and it will show kph or mph then when you go into your tire settings it will be either psi or kpa, but it would be nice to just change it directly on the tire psi page 
    • Common Sense Assembly   Your driveline is forgiving of the occasional mistake. It will even often forgive the random serious blunder. But it will not forgive a continuous bad habit.      What? Not everything needs to be a five thousand word essay.       
    • We drove about 15 minute east today to visit a friend and saw a steep increase in price in the same county. About 50 cents a gallon steepper. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...