Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Is there any better solution to filling those 8 big, odd shaped holes under the bed rail? My 08 had them and I thought GM had lost their minds. These holes are a manufacturing shortcut, in my opinion. I run toppers on all my trucks. These holes suck in dirt and moisture. You'd think GM would come up with a better design that eliminated this.

 

I had the foam blocks in my last truck. It works to some degree.

 

Is there a better solution?

Posted

I installed the bed seal kit that includes gasket material for the front of the bed and tailgate as well as the foam blocks. Really sealed it up for me. In addition to the dust coming in around the stake holes, I also had water leaking in around the tailgate. Nothing now. If interested, I can look up the Amazon link for you. I couldn't find anything better.

Posted

I have the foam blocks and they work fine. I thought about just getting matching color duct tape or maybe even foil tape since that stuff will stick to anything. I don't think either of those choices would look any worse than the foam blocks hanging out.

 

Mike

Posted

Are you refering to the slots on the inside of the bed? My 2011 had plastic plugs in those holes. Maybe if they are the same size you could get them. I was going to look at my new truck when it comes in and see if they will work. If not I was going to look at the wing nut type plugs you can get for electrical enclosures, and paint them to match. Should be waterproof, only drawback might be the wingnut on the inside.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

There are a lot of places that dust gets into the bed and it is very noticable when a bed cover is installed.

 

First, there is a gap in the bed wall at the front (opposite the tailgate)where the section behind the cab meets the floor. The kit I am referring to provided a gasket that seals this gap from top near the bed rail to bottom, across the width and up the other side to the bed rail.

 

Next, there are foam blocks that plug the gaps on both sides where the stake rails meet the bed under the bed rails along the front and back and above the wheel well humps in the middle. If you take a flashlight and look under the rails, you can see these gaps easily.

 

Moving on to the tailgate, the kit provided gasket material to run from under the bed rail on one side down along the bed between the tailgate and bed, ending at the bed rail on the other side. They also include other gasket material to seal the ends of the tailgate near the top. This gasket also seals out water intrusion from around the tailgate.

 

Finally, they include clear stickers to put on the round holes on the bed sides, if your bed doesn't already have covers on them. Mine had covers on all other holes except the drain holes at the front of the bed which I did not cover.

 

I have no pics because I installed a Bedrug after sealing the bed, but here is a link to the kit: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001B6IF6S/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

I hope this helps.

Edited by chuckl1218
Posted

There are a lot of places that dust gets into the bed and it is very noticable when a bed cover is installed.

 

First, there is a gap in the bed wall at the front (opposite the tailgate)where the section behind the cab meets the floor. The kit I am referring to provided a gasket that seals this gap from top near the bed rail to bottom, across the width and up the other side to the bed rail.

 

Next, there are foam blocks that plug the gaps on both sides where the stake rails meet the bed under the bed rails along the front and back and above the wheel well humps in the middle. If you take a flashlight and look under the rails, you can see these gaps easily.

 

Moving on to the tailgate, the kit provided gasket material to run from under the bed rail on one side down along the bed between the tailgate and bed, ending at the bed rail on the other side. They also include other gasket material to seal the ends of the tailgate near the top. This gasket also seals out water intrusion from around the tailgate.

 

Finally, they include clear stickers to put on the round holes on the bed sides, if your bed doesn't already have covers on them. Mine had covers on all other holes except the drain holes at the front of the bed which I did not cover.

 

I have no pics because I installed a Bedrug after sealing the bed, but here is a link to the kit: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001B6IF6S/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

I hope this helps.

I read a few of the reviews for that product on amazon and some claimed to have trouble with the adhesive not sticking. Did you have any issues with the adhesive during installation or after?

Posted

so far, no issues. I did prep every spot where the gasket attaches with alcohol and had to wait until the right ambient temp so that it would stick.

  • 5 months later...
  • 7 years later...
Posted
On 4/19/2014 at 11:05 AM, Spurshot said:

Is there any better solution to filling those 8 big, odd shaped holes under the bed rail? My 08 had them and I thought GM had lost their minds. These holes are a manufacturing shortcut, in my opinion. I run toppers on all my trucks. These holes suck in dirt and moisture. You'd think GM would come up with a better design that eliminated this.

 

I had the foam blocks in my last truck. It works to some degree.

 

Is there a better solution?

Let me know if you find a better solution. I am getting ready for next weekend at which time I will apply a sheet of plastic 4 mil and a piece of cardboard after it to the space between the bed and cab. I will then support it with some towels stuffed between the cardboard and the cab to hold it in place then spray foam the area from inside. Will have to shoot the foam in through a couple holes still in the spray in bed liner but should give me plenty of space to spray. After sitting over night I will remove these and hope for the best. Will get color match paint at auto store to paint the foam between the bed and cab for whatever shows. Tghe plastic and cardboard should greatly limit the area it travels to but one dry it can be shaved off before painting. A 1200.00 bed cover and still my tools in truck bed get drinched due to these holes. One at the corner on both sides of the bed. Rediculous.

 

  • Haha 1
Posted

Well, more than 8 years and 95,000 miles later, i still only have those foam blocks in there.  It's been dustier than I would like, but seems to keep most of the junk out.  

 

But, I did just think of another route.  I have some soft aluminum sheet with adhesive back.  Its pretty thick, maybe 10 mils if I recall correctly.  

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,949
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Gkistler
    Newest Member
    Gkistler
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 892 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hi friends - first time poster. I have a 2015 sierra Denali with 150k miles, I’m the second owner and she’s given me 75k of great service. I run a pulse AFM disable device. Starting Thursday when I exited the freeway after a short local ride it started idling rough, with an obvious misfire shake and was down on low end power.  I got it home and hooked it up to my scannner and found no codes but in live data a pretty bad misfire on cylinder 5. I replaced the coil, plug and wire with all new OE replacements (Delphi gn10165 coil, acdelco wire and 41-168 plug). It’s still behaving the same way after firing the parts cannon at it.   I know cyl 5 is a non AFM cylinder so I am not thinking this is AFM related but I’m kinda at a loss. injector? Bent pushrod? It’s running too well over 1k rpm to suggest those IMO. Has anyone chase this issue before and what was it? Any suggestions? 
    • 2017 Silverado L83 5.3l 6speed transmission Hello, not a new member but havent posted in a while and my old signup info isnt working so had to create a new account. anyways, I have an issue with my truck and hope someone can spread some light on whats happening: -when it goes to 4cyl mode it makes a clunk sound (but not when coasting or going downhill) -when in 4 cyl mode and under load it makes a load pulsating sound (not a tick). -goes away completely when in M5 gear or when plugging in an AFM delete. Im guessing it is one of 2 things but im not convinced of either to be honest. 1. lifter stuck in v8 mode 2. torque converter shudder realistically it doesn't seem like the TC as there is no physical vibration , and it never happens in v8 mode. but maybe? and wouldnt a lifter make a sound whether with load or not? any ideas let me know please. thank you!  
    • Which has made me wonder with the various engine failures of a few brands in the last few years, is it sub par materials such as lifters etc causing failures, or bearing clearances on the crank etc or perhaps bad designing of an engine physically or causing too much load on the components due to the hp/torque they can push out of them. Or is the oil viscosity and additive package of current oils or a lack of oil flow by an oil pump not able to supply sufficient oil at idle or under high load at low rpm. Or is it every item I listed that combined together has pushed the limits so far to the left that there is hardly a margin of safety left and add in some fuel dilution and too long of an OCI and premature engine failure is the result ?. 
    • He is not saying that an SAE *W20 will have more viscosity than a *W40 due to MORE VII polymers. He is saying that although multiple *W40 may post in the PDS the same or similar 100 C and 150 C viscosities that the blenders choice of modifier TYPE and AMOUNT to get his chosen base to grade will not give identical real world viscosities in shear and at temperature. All will pass the SII test but not all will pass the 100 C HTHS (unpublished value) testing the blender does and relies on to get the required by law "percentage improvement' referenced to his last great work.    Tis the problem with the lie. Once told others are required to support it. 
    • I have a `25, 1500 that auto sets on incline. Never knew that at first. I have the electronic shifter. Just think if it didn`t do that? Unlike a mechanical shift that you can muscle out of park, how would you get this thing out? That would be a problem.   What I found out later is, I don`t have to push the button to release. Just put it in gear.   Setting parameters? Don`t know if it`s possible.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...