Jump to content

Transmission getting stuck in 2nd gear

berteras

Recommended Posts

berteras Enthusiast

berteras

Posted
Posted

I have a 2008 NNBS Z-71, Roughly a month ago my truck got stuck in 4wd lo. I was about 10 miles from home so I drove it home, the next day I went through the motions and narrowed it down to the actuator or switch, since the switch was $30 I picked one up and changed it....it worked so problem solved so I thought. A week after that it got stuck in 4 lo again, I just left it alone and when I came back to the truck a few hours later, I started the truck and switched it out with no problem. Ever since then, it's getting stuck in 2nd gear. What it's doing is while slowing down it will get down to 10-12 mph than the speedometer will just go to zero and if I try to accelerate it will stay at 0 and it will not come out of 2nd gear. When this happens I have to either come to a complete stop or put it in neutral and tach it out than switch back to drive and than it's fine. It seems to be an electrical issue more than a mechanical issue but I have no idea what I could be! For what it's worth the truck does have a blackbear tune on it. Has anyone had this issue or know anything about this? Any info is much appreciated

gmtech4 Senior Enthusiast

gmtech4

Posted
Posted

Without looking it up on another devise I can tell you that when both shift solenoid are off (power failure) it will be in a gear , so if power IS lost ya can drive it ,

 

I feel you can do nothing on your own unless you have a scanner, service info and some mechanical repair background ,

 

Please let us know what you find cuzzzz no one does

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Coastie05
      2027 GMC Sierra: Official Discussion

      By Coastie05 · Posted

      Sure, but they do have some affordable options like the Trax, Trailblazer, Envista, and Encore. Some of these have a cheaper base price than the Civic, though the fuel economy isn’t as high. The main problem is that people WANT the highest trim with all the goodies and finance for like 7 years. That’s how ppl “afford” the more expensive vehicles. 
    • Jsdirt
      07 yukon xl 6.2 stalls at hot idle and wont restart

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      Holy s**t - not much of a parts thrower you say? You BLASTED that thing with the parts cannon!  You'd have been probably $1,000 ahead if you had just brought it to a competent shop rather than shotgunning a bunch of parts it clearly didn't need.   Just FYI - oil additives are really, REALLY good at ONE thing ... and that's emptying your wallet. They're ALL useless gimmicks.   If that has the L94 or L99, then #7 is an AFM cylinder. I'd suspect a failed lifter in that case.   If you leaned on wiring, sensors, and/or connectors while changing the oil, you'll have to check all that to be sure pins didn't get pulled out, connectors broken, etc.. Old wire loom that was barely adequate when new is certainly brittle by year 19 - make sure wires aren't chaffed and shorting out somewhere where you might have leaned. or supported yourself on it.   If your a mechanic, why didn't you just find out what you were missing and troubleshoot from there??  TIMED spark, fuel PSI / injector pulse, air, compression.  Can't make ANY money going the parts cannon route.
    • Jsdirt
      2027 GMC Sierra: Official Discussion

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      LOL! Are you joking?? That wax SUCKS! 100% gimmick made to "look" good.    After just TWO winters I had severe surface rusting in patches over 90% of the frame. Only reason it looks great in the pics is because I SATURATED the frame every single fall with used motor oil for 14 of the 16 years I owned it. Otherwise it would've been sent to the crusher 8 years earlier with the speed it was rusting prior!    I sold that POS 3 years ago. Was a gigantic headache the second it rolled off the showroom floor. Brakes pulsated on the TEST DRIVE. Door trim fell off the 1st week! Interior squeaked and rattled, and the drivetrain clunked after 2k miles. 4x4 switch failed shortly after. Front end - ball joints, struts, hub bearings - all failed between 38k-50k. Engine started burning oil at 50k. Rear and and transmission failed before 100k. Nothing but problems, and frustration with the piss-poor engineering designed to make you give up. Well, it worked! Nothing on that truck was easy to remove ... except the wheels. They haven't figured out how to screw that up yet. Give 'em time ...   I won't make that mistake again. EVER.   Such fond memories ... https://postimg.cc/K1qf23tS  https://postimg.cc/gallery/X02z64J  https://postimg.cc/gallery/mHSRXZv  https://postimg.cc/gallery/D4mMRfL
    • davester
      OBD not ready?

      By davester · Posted

      Different monitors do their test only under conditions specific to that monitor.  you MIGHT find the drive cycle conditions for the monitor that isn't ready on this site: https://lemon-manuals.la/   If it's not there, then it should be on alldata.com for your truck, but it requires a paid subscription.   And you need to know which specific monitor isn't ready.
    • RW2018GMC
      Me too……..

      By RW2018GMC · Posted

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...