Headlight out not the bulb

[RB Racing]

I just went to check for voltage with my meter and the plug is burnt inside? Can I buy just the plug?

[gmtech4]

Yup,at GM

[RB Racing]

Thanks.

Only 18k kms but waranty is just over.

[Doug_Scott]

You running stock bulbs? Stock bulb should not melt connector.

[00Silverado4x4]

Make sure when you replace to have a good connection. If the bulb was losse or corrosion got into the socket that could lead to a burnt socket. You can get bulb grease or any dielectric grease to put in there.

[RB Racing]

After market bulbs

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[RB Racing]

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[RB Racing]

I put a new plug on replaced the fuse that was also blown and it was working for a short time and blew another fuse?

 

Stock H11 bulbs in. I suspect a short grounding some where.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Doug_Scott]

The aftermarket bulbs that caused the initial damage also likely burnt other connectors in that circuit. Pull the fuse panel out (the under hood one) and look at the underside of it. You may see more damage there.

 

Did you make any changes to the stock wiring in order to get the lights to work different than stock? For example, make the change to allow driving/fog lights to run with high beams or for both hi and low beam to run at same time.

[RB Racing]

No changes to the stock wiring. The other bulbs were in for almost 3 years? Just a bulb swap.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Doug_Scott]

Problem with higher output bulbs is that they generally draw more power. The additional amperage is likely under the max that the factory wire can take, but is over the capacity of the connectors. Any connection has to support the higher amperage, and they also have their own effect on the circuit. Sometimes it takes a while for the damage to be bad enough to show up. If it is still blowing fuses, you have a short somewhere. Check the headlight switch connector as well.

 

I put "solar flare" bulbs on my 87 Yamaha FZ750 back in 88. They were 100watt halogen H4 bulbs. Stock was 50 watt. It also had dual headlights. Short trips were no problems. Took a trip to Lake Placid non-stop with a buddy, and when we got to the motel the bike would not shut off. The bulbs had drawn enough extra amperage it melted the wiring harness and melted the ignition wires into the headlight wires. Luckily I had put the stock bulbs into luggage in case either of us needed a replacement bulb on the trip. The "solar flares" did not make the return trip. From that point on, any time I put higher powered bulbs in a bike, I also made a new custom circuit that used 12 gauge wire and relays for the headlights. Never had an issue again.

[RB Racing]

Problem solved. My neighbour came over and we plugged the bulb into the socket out of the headlight unit and he started wiggling the harness and the fuse popped.

I inspected my repair and found a shard of soldered wire poking out of the heat shrink and was grounding out? I wrapped the wires in electrical tape and all seems good now.

 

The heat shrink I used was a bit too thin more for electronics than automotive use. Lesson learned.

[Doug_Scott]

I usually take vice grips (or any other locking pliers) and squeeze the soldered joint all the way around to flatten out the odd piece of wire sticking out with just enough solder on it to make that one strand as solid as a needle. Also been known to double up on the shrink tubing if the bare wire has enough room for the two pieces.

 

Don't know I ever got along before shrink tubing became so readily available.

[RB Racing]

Pretty tight quarters and getting cold outside so I may have rushed a bit.

+1 on using pliers to flatten down any stray strands.

 

Need to shop around for some thicker heat shrink. Just glad my neighbour(ex-gm mechanic) came by saved me lots of time trying to track it down.