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Towing with a Suburban


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Posted

Okay boys, I'm new to this forum. So to break the ice, hello! Okay now onto the topic. I have a 2007 Suburban 1500 5.3 vortec with 130,000 miles. I need to do some pretty big rear end upgrades. I need to tow 9,900 LBS...... Now I know everybody is going to respond with "buy a Duramax!" but that just isn't an option I need to make this Burb work with the trailer. Now onto the trailer, it's a Trailers USA 2 horse with a dressing room weighing 7000 LBS empty which will now be loaded with two horses most of the time which add up to another 2400LBS. Then we need to add in another 300-400 LBS for "tack" (Saddles, reins, blankets, etc) So roughly all in all I'm going to have 10,000LBS worth of a lead sled behind me. Now my main concern the truck can pull it but the problem is how much it squats in the rear end so im leary about going above 60MPH with it. The truck itself has a full K&N Cold Air Intake, a catback 3 inch MBRP exhaust and a crappy little plug and play Hypertech Max Energy Tuner. But more horsepower is also preferred. Now I need to know I'm starting fresh with towing with this vehicle so I need to know a good brake box controller, good sway bars, and fix to the squatting issue. Thanks!

Posted

Is the truck leveled and do you know how much it squats when compared to the front? If it's not much maybe just lift blocks in the rear but if it's major enough and you have the cash then maybe helper airbags.

 

This is the reason I don't want to level my truck because while unloaded it looks better but with any actual weight in the bed or towing it will look like it's dragging ass.

Posted

Is the truck leveled and do you know how much it squats when compared to the front? If it's not much maybe just lift blocks in the rear but if it's major enough and you have the cash then maybe helper airbags.

 

This is the reason I don't want to level my truck because while unloaded it looks better but with any actual weight in the bed or towing it will look like it's dragging ass.

I'm not sure currently how it sits in inches but its completely bone stock in suspension and lift. The truck drags so bad that the tires (285's on a 22 inch rim) scrape the plastic wheel wells

Posted

You may want to look into new leaf springs and maybe even new shocks first because that sounds like they may be shot. The only time my 98 sagged even close to that was with a ton of gravel in the bed and those leaf springs were pretty shot and didn't rub the inner fenders (had stock 16s on it though so a lot more sidewall than you). Once I helped my best friend move (one of the times) and I had a bunch of stuff including a full size fridge in the bed and then the tandem Uhaul trailer packed from to back, bottom to top and it only sagged normal.

Posted

You may want to look into new leaf springs and maybe even new shocks first because that sounds like they may be shot. The only time my 98 sagged even close to that was with a ton of gravel in the bed and those leaf springs were pretty shot and didn't rub the inner fenders (had stock 16s on it though so a lot more sidewall than you). Once I helped my best friend move (one of the times) and I had a bunch of stuff including a full size fridge in the bed and then the tandem Uhaul trailer packed from to back, bottom to top and it only sagged normal.

Yeah I figured it was looking that way. Would you recommend any aftermarket shocks?

Posted

Not really since I don't have any personal experience with aftermarket shocks. Maybe look into ones that are made specifically for towing.

Also leaf springs are non existent on 1500 models. It's a straight axle but from what I can see kind of looks like a 4 link.

Posted

Also leaf springs are non existent on 1500 models. It's a straight axle but from what I can see kind of looks like a 4 link.

 

Maybe the SUVs are different but I didn't think they would be different than a truck. It should have leaf springs which are used for straight axles.

Posted

 

Maybe the SUVs are different but I didn't think they would be different than a truck. It should have leaf springs which are used for straight axles.

Yeah, I know. Kind of stupid that they would build a SUV on a pickup truck frame then claim that it can tow but not use the same suspension as a Silverado.

Posted

Yeah, I know. Kind of stupid that they would build a SUV on a pickup truck frame then claim that it can tow but not use the same suspension as a Silverado.

 

I just looked it up, it still has coil springs in the rear. Shocks don't hold up weight or carry the load. Shocks just absorb the sudden shocks from the road. So whatever springs you have in the rear they could be gone. But look into shocks first because if one or both go out it will make the vehicle sag without any additional load.

Posted

 

I just looked it up, it still has coil springs in the rear. Shocks don't hold up weight or carry the load. Shocks just absorb the sudden shocks from the road. So whatever springs you have in the rear they could be gone. But look into shocks first because if one or both go out it will make the vehicle sag without any additional load.

Factory Springs lol I just looked on Ebay and Moog has a pair of "Heavy Duty" Coil springs for $140. Sound like a sham to you?

Posted

If your trailer will actually weigh about 10k loaded up, it is way to much trailer for your 'burb! Not what you want to hear, but you don't need a d'max for 10k though either! A 6.0/6spd/4.10- 2500HD would handle the weight.

 

BUT.... is this the trailer you have: http://www.luckybtrailers.com/2014-trailers-usa-2-horse-straightload-bumper-pull-wdr-new-horse-trailer-va-i986121?

 

If so, "dry weight" is listed as 2500lbs! GROSS (Max loaded weight) is 7k. So you may be under the 'burbs tow rating, depending on your gearing. Understand that while your 'burb can be a great tow vehicle, they are also designed to have a nice ride down the road. Add between (estimate depending on how the trailer is designed and loaded! Not familiar what the average tongue weight for a horse trailer is) 600-900lbs tongue weight and the burb will sag (based on 6klb trailer with 10-15% tw (tongue weight)). Worn springs don't help this either. Your hitch probably is only rated for above 500lb tw when used with a wd (weight distribution) hitch.

 

Look into a Reese Dual Cam/ SC or Equal-I-Zer weight distribution hitch. Both have built in sway control and are very good systems for the money.

 

Tekonsha P2 and P3 brake controllers are well liked.

 

Find a spring shop, and have them check the coil springs out. Replace if needed (or just replace). Maybe there is a heavy duty set available.

 

Good luck!

Posted

Hey Tristen,

 

I am sorry that you are getting so much erroneous information. It sounds like you have calculated your weights properly, however the 1/2 Suburban has the exact same chassis, motor, suspension etc as the 1/2 ton Avalanche. Neither can safey tow anywhere near 10,000 lbs. period. No matter what you do to the stock suspension to "level' your truck, it will not increase the working towing capacity.

 

Airbags in the rear coils can add up to 1000 lbs of increased load, such as keeping your rear end from sagging as much when loaded with gear, and it does help a little bit with tongue weight, though a self leveling hitch works better when towing. It does not matter what you do, your chassis, brakes, gearing, torque, and tranny are not built to tow that much weight. They will break down much sooner than later and could be tragic if on the road when they give out. Your brakes will not safely stop your truck and trailer. If you have to have a Suburban think of selling your rig and buying an older (up to 2006) 2500 (3/4 ton) Suburban. It will haul your 10,000 lbs just fine.

 

I have been battling this with a 1/2 Avalanche for a few years now and have wasted alot of money and time doing the same thing your doing. I can tow 7000 lbs safely the 07's can tow up to 8k , but never near 10k trailer and gear weight. I had contemplated putting 1-ton live axles under my chassis and shedding the coil garbage but then my frame, and tranny would not carry the torque of the axles, nor will the 5.3 motor provide enough torque to safely accelerate up even mild grades.

 

Please be safe, coils spacers only raise the rear up but do not add to trailering weight. Shocks do help with sway, or body roll actualy, even though that is not what they are designed for on your truck. Your sway bar is too small to handle a larger load when it start to sway.

 

Unless your an experienced tralier/truck remanufacturer, custom frame builder, stick to what the factory states your Suburban will safely tow.

Posted

Its me again Tristen,

 

while typing I mised Blue2500CC's post. This person is exactly right. Follow their good sense. If you do choose a truck over a 2500 Suburban, the 2500 3/4 Chevy and GMC with 4:10 gearing and the 6.0 motor is a great choice. The 2500 Avalanche and 2500 Suburban came with the 8.1 liter motor and a heavier duty tranny than your 1500 Suburban.

 

Good luck, and be smart. (safe)

Posted

Its me again Tristen,

 

while typing I mised Blue2500CC's post. This person is exactly right. Follow their good sense. If you do choose a truck over a 2500 Suburban, the 2500 3/4 Chevy and GMC with 4:10 gearing and the 6.0 motor is a great choice. The 2500 Avalanche and 2500 Suburban came with the 8.1 liter motor and a heavier duty tranny than your 1500 Suburban.

 

Good luck, and be smart. (safe)

I appreciate the reply. I was afraid of this information. Looks like I'll have to start looking around for a Silverado. If you know anyone in the jersey area with a 6.0 Silverado let me know!

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