Jump to content

Waiting for Michelins


Recommended Posts

Posted

Got off work in time to get into one of the larger shops this afternoon, two tires out of balance and all over inflated. Store MGR double checked everything and reset tire monitors .Also happy they didn't get lube grease all over the wheels. Couldn't get above 70 in rush hour traffic and slow pokes in the ways but so far smooth and quiet. If anymore problems will go to Commercial truck repair shop my employer has an account with for road force test. Thank all for your advise and suggestions

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I have been working long hours lately and need to after spending money for new tires. After second rebalance truck had little less shake 75+. Returned to tire shop and switched right front and rear and rode smooth and started again next day. Two Emails and three unanswered calls to GM Rep were bought truck. Called Service Dept. at a big Chevy dealer nearby that has Road Force , instead of saying Yes Sir bring it in was told all Tires shops has Road force,(No they don't Sir that's why I called you )Going to a Commercial Tire Shop to have Road Force done $80. Nothing wrong with tires Chevy Dealer is going to have a very concerned customer tomorrow. Guess I'll be posting on Vibration Issues next.

Posted

I would recommend a road force balance for your new tires. The machine is the latest technology and has a large weight that rolls against the tire as it turns. This weight simulates the load of a vehicle on the tire/wheel assy and provides a more accurate balance. Both tires and wheels have a heavy spot. The heavy spot on the wheel is usually at the location where the valve stem is drilled. The heavy spot on the tire is where a spot or paint mark is placed. NEVER let an uneducated tire guy place the spot on the tire at the valve stem. Best place for the spot is 180 degrees away from the valve stem. If a lot of weight is required on one wheel, your dealer can break the tire off of the rim and turn it 90 degrees at a time until the minimum amount of weight is required to balance it. If the problem continues, tell them you want a runout gauge used and make certain your wheels and tires are within spec. A few thousands of an inch may not seem like much but makes a huge difference at 70 mph. At this speed your tires are rotating at about 900 ~ 1000 rpm and there is quite a bit of rotating mass to cause a vibration. You may have to find someone with vibration knowledge (or that cares) and work with them until this is resolved.

Commercial shop didn't do a Road Force check but rebalanced one and found one with flat spot with no charge. Said to come back if any problems like if expecting me . Also found out Shop I bought tires from sell B grade tires like the big box stores, wonder if dealer installed tires are B grade. Store MGR I dealt with was off today and had to explain to another, tire on order for Monday. Have not received any replies to emails and phone messages to GM Service MGR

Posted

New tire and still shakes , I've had enough balancing and lug nuts are being worn out. Going back to have Road Forced as suggested to rule out if faulty tires or a truck problem. Like a dummy rushed and didn't ask if the shop is a Michelin dealer and of course they are not.Called Michelin customer service and a guy wheezing hacking all in the phone said I will have to go to Sears or NTB for a claim and pay an adjustment. Tire Shop where bought the tires will just replace them with possibly another B grade set .

Posted

Had tires Road Forced this morning and truck rides great 70 -85 mph.( my luck just Hexed myself) Have been reminded before purchasing tires make sure they are the designated dealer for the brand you want. Shop does not sell B grade tires and have equipment for Road Force balancing. After three attempts to balance and one tire replaced where bought the tires all four were found balanced incorrectly. This is for you Top Line Tire :fart:

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,860
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    HWN808
    Newest Member
    HWN808
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 2 Anonymous, 966 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Diesel $5.42 at the truck stop on the hi-way
    • I'm not sure if this should be a new topic, let me know if it's out of place. This my first post. Thanks 85077522 - AC Delco GM Genuine Parts Brake Master Cylinders. Anyone else had to replace this brake master cylinder yet. I didn't do any brake work, it looks like new parts and I've had the truck for about 4k miles, 119k total miles.  When it started to throw codes I did the calibrations with a bidirectional scanner and got the codes to clear but they came back so I did the routine; base bleed, automated bleed and final base bleed. All that with Bosch ES16-32N fluid (please look it up). That seemed to fix it but 100ish miles later it failed again so I ran the same process but with a pressure bleeder this time and got the same results, fixed for 100ish miles. The original fluid looked bad and I thought I got most of it out, it could've been the wrong fluid. The codes; P25A2, C05B0-00, C2A1B. I can get them to clear but not for long. The C05B0 indicates a leak in the front circuit (which is bone dry) so I'm thinking of doing the bleed process on that front again today and I don't know if that's taboo to just do the front but at this point it seems like it's worth the try anyway. The new master cylinder/module unit is supposed to get here today. But now I'm pretty much convinced this install is over my head. I've called several shops and some mobile guys that I know but this thing is like radio active material, scary wise. I did get 2 local shops say they should be able to do it, one says he has the SPS2 programing capability. And with the battery disconnected is there supposed to be pedal resistance, mine is to the floor, then if I pump it I can get some resistance. I had a panic stop prior to this issue which may have contributed from what I read. And on the first attempt to bleed and hydraulic test the scanner listed things to look for and one was any gaps between the pad and rotors which I did notice on the RF corner and I removed the outer pad (where the gap was) cleaned it and the hardware and didn't see a gap after that but will re-check it. I read that if pushing the caliper pistons back then you're supposed to open the bleeder so as to not push fluid backwards into the abs module or it will damage it. If that's true then that's also a possibility from the previous owner having the brakes changed before I got it. I'm using an XTool ip500 scanner. Any suggestions, questions and comments welcome. 
    • Next Friday will be my 6 week point from my right knee replacement.  The surgeon says it will be fine if I choose to drive after this checkup.  I know I could drive now but best to do as my surgeon (and my wife) tell me.  Richard compared being 62 to 72.  I remember when I was in my early 60's I was experiencing slow but regular decline in my mobility.  Thanks to good medical support,  i continued to fight the speed and spread of this decline. During my 60's I worked on non-surgical methods and just when I turned 70, my orthopedic surgeon recommended joint replacements.  In a little over a year, I had one shoulder and both knees replaced.  This hasn't been a terribly fun experience, but worth the discomfort as my future mobility health trajectory has reversed.  It is a treat to now be watching my mobility. balance and confidence steadily improve!
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...