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Removing Headlight housing. + MODS!

Chevysousa

By Chevysousa
in Modifications & Accessories

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Chevysousa Enthusiast

Chevysousa

Posted
Posted

Okay so i ordered a pair of switchback LED'S for my headlight signals. im wanting to remove the housing to remove the amber platic so the white led can stand out...does anyone know if thats a bad idea? or if its not right to remove that piece...and if so if it can be replaced with like a clear one? ....

 

Also since im removing the housing i was debating on painting the chrome ring around my projector. If its a removable piece im going to paint it...so my question is what is the best way to paint this stuff glossy, and so it will last and withstand the head of the sun and halogen light? ( soon going to upgrade to leds' )

 

lastly! to remove the headlight housing what do people recommend on baking temperatures? this will be my first time so i need to wing this correctly lol.....also when it is removed what type of sealant should i reuse to reseal my headlights? or do i just use whats already on the headlight ? if someone can take time and just help me with this headlight removal steps that would be great! even PM me if its easier. ]

 

THANKYOU all so much and i hope to hear back from you all!

RobZ71LM7 Enthusiast

RobZ71LM7

Posted
Posted

Baking/Opening

I've baked mine apart and removed the amber lense when I did my retro. This is going to sound high, but 270* F for 22 minutes is what it took for me. Lower and you're going to be frustrated and do more damage. The permaseal is tough! I didn't outline it below, but do an initial bake for a while around 200* F and remove the chrome trim first. Be careful as it's easy to break on one end (next to grille where vertical sections are thin). I used a straight carbide cutter on my dremel to remove the old permaseal-baking wouldn't taken forever to clean the channels. Test fit several times dry before you attempt to seal it back together.

 

Switchback w/o lense

I ended up removing my switch backs and going to Vled 7443 Hi-vis amber LED's. Without the lense my switchbacks were so bright in white mode that they were blinding at night. Walking up to the truck when the parking lights on was painful. If you go switchbacks I recommend the Triton V3's which have the ability to dim the white/parking light when the headlights are on. I couldn't justify two sets of Tritons so I went the other route.

 

 

Post # 1899

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/152762-hid-headlight-bulbs-hid-projector-retrofit/page-127?hl=bake&do=findComment&comment=1665093

 

3M Window Weld 1/4" (I used this but 5/16 would be better-fill the channel up!)

http://www.amazon.com/3M-08620-Window-Weld-Ribbon-Sealer/dp/B0039752R2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1442755676&sr=8-2&keywords=3m+window++weld

 

 

 

DAP56 Enthusiast

DAP56

Posted
Posted

Baking/Opening

I've baked mine apart and removed the amber lense when I did my retro. This is going to sound high, but 270* F for 22 minutes is what it took for me. Lower and you're going to be frustrated and do more damage. The permaseal is tough! I didn't outline it below, but do an initial bake for a while around 200* F and remove the chrome trim first. Be careful as it's easy to break on one end (next to grille where vertical sections are thin). I used a straight carbide cutter on my dremel to remove the old permaseal-baking wouldn't taken forever to clean the channels. Test fit several times dry before you attempt to seal it back together.

 

Switchback w/o lense

I ended up removing my switch backs and going to Vled 7443 Hi-vis amber LED's. Without the lense my switchbacks were so bright in white mode that they were blinding at night. Walking up to the truck when the parking lights on was painful. If you go switchbacks I recommend the Triton V3's which have the ability to dim the white/parking light when the headlights are on. I couldn't justify two sets of Tritons so I went the other route.

 

 

Post # 1899

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/152762-hid-headlight-bulbs-hid-projector-retrofit/page-127?hl=bake&do=findComment&comment=1665093

 

3M Window Weld 1/4" (I used this but 5/16 would be better-fill the channel up!)

http://www.amazon.com/3M-08620-Window-Weld-Ribbon-Sealer/dp/B0039752R2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1442755676&sr=8-2&keywords=3m+window++weld

 

 

 

This is so awesome. I'd like to get these in white under my ambers. It should be crisp and very bright, but not too bright as there's an Amber lens. I'm also going to get 3 sets for the tail lights. 5 sets at $150.. Ouch.

Chevysousa Enthusiast

Chevysousa

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Baking/Opening

I've baked mine apart and removed the amber lense when I did my retro. This is going to sound high, but 270* F for 22 minutes is what it took for me. Lower and you're going to be frustrated and do more damage. The permaseal is tough! I didn't outline it below, but do an initial bake for a while around 200* F and remove the chrome trim first. Be careful as it's easy to break on one end (next to grille where vertical sections are thin). I used a straight carbide cutter on my dremel to remove the old permaseal-baking wouldn't taken forever to clean the channels. Test fit several times dry before you attempt to seal it back together.

 

Switchback w/o lense

I ended up removing my switch backs and going to Vled 7443 Hi-vis amber LED's. Without the lense my switchbacks were so bright in white mode that they were blinding at night. Walking up to the truck when the parking lights on was painful. If you go switchbacks I recommend the Triton V3's which have the ability to dim the white/parking light when the headlights are on. I couldn't justify two sets of Tritons so I went the other route.

 

 

Post # 1899

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/152762-hid-headlight-bulbs-hid-projector-retrofit/page-127?hl=bake&do=findComment&comment=1665093

 

3M Window Weld 1/4" (I used this but 5/16 would be better-fill the channel up!)

http://www.amazon.com/3M-08620-Window-Weld-Ribbon-Sealer/dp/B0039752R2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1442755676&sr=8-2&keywords=3m+window++weld

 

 

 

this is awesome man thankyou! umm so when i bake them and rip them apart...is the sealant they use called permaseal? so i get some of that stuff and apply it when i want to put it back together ? is that all i do? clean the residue off and just apply is and let it sit ? also the trim around the headlights is that also sealed on? or just clips?

 

 

and i mentioned...not sure if u know but i want to try and paint the chrome ring around my projector's RED. any recommendation on paint? thats guna last.

RobZ71LM7 Enthusiast

RobZ71LM7

Posted
Posted

this is awesome man thankyou! umm so when i bake them and rip them apart...is the sealant they use called permaseal? so i get some of that stuff and apply it when i want to put it back together ? is that all i do? clean the residue off and just apply is and let it sit ? also the trim around the headlights is that also sealed on? or just clips?

 

 

and i mentioned...not sure if u know but i want to try and paint the chrome ring around my projector's RED. any recommendation on paint? thats guna last.

 

The chrome trim is secured by double sided tape and clips.

 

Permaseal is a common name for late model sealant and it is a pain to remove. If it's not hot it's almost as hard as plastic. In fact it's very easy to deform and damage the housing at the temps where permaseal is soft. You have to remove all the old sealant. The 3M window weld I suggested is butyl and is much easier to use and reopen should the need arise in the future. You might want to do search for headlight retro and permaseal to know what you're getting into first.

 

Do a similar search for paint.

 

Hidplanet.com is the place to go for retro info.

Chevysousa Enthusiast

Chevysousa

Posted
  • Author
Posted

 

The chrome trim is secured by double sided tape and clips.

 

Permaseal is a common name for late model sealant and it is a pain to remove. If it's not hot it's almost as hard as plastic. In fact it's very easy to deform and damage the housing at the temps where permaseal is soft. You have to remove all the old sealant. The 3M window weld I suggested is butyl and is much easier to use and reopen should the need arise in the future. You might want to do search for headlight retro and permaseal to know what you're getting into first.

 

Do a similar search for paint.

 

Hidplanet.com is the place to go for retro info.

just seen this...is this pretty much how im going to be doing this?

 

 

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