Stabilitrack was a stability control, traction control system, that functioned independently from the transfer case.
Z-71 has nothing to do with the transfer case or differential.
If it does have an AWD system, my memory recalls this being specific to the Denali trim, converting won't be as simple as swapping out mechanical parts like differentials and transfer cases. It will require reprogramming at a minimum. Long story short, not likely worth it.
Pulling a fuse, may disable the AWD system, it might also prevent any other transfer case functions.
However, the AWD case was generally based on the same transfer case you refer to in the 2006 Suburban. If it still has a 4-High and 4-Low where the transfer case locks and splits power 50-50 front to rear, what are you gaining by changing anything? A true-rear wheel drive only, what good will that serve? Not enough to go through the trouble of changing out all the parts.
Generally, all the factory systems will handle a 33" tire and re-gearing. Probably a 35" tire too, if you aren't driving like a caveman. If 35" tires are in the plan...
If you do plan on driving like a caveman or are fully committed to 35" tires, an entire re-think of the build is probably in order. Starting with square one, an IFS front end isn't going to be the best starting point for 35's and caveman driving.
1/2 qt over full ain`t gonna hurt $h!t. Most times, a whole qt won`t either. Most have windage trays now. As long as the crank isn`t slapping itself in the oil, it`s not the end of the world.
We used to overfill 1 qt at the track, at race time. Better to have it over full than having the pan sucked dry at 6500 rpm`s.
No, just straight up poured too much in. Oil level is over the "full" mark on the dipstick.
It sounds like if you do or did, you would drain it off with the valve.
I use magnetic drain plugs, so draining off any to come down to the full mark would be more difficult. The 'range' of acceptable fill level keeps from having to be so exacting with the dipstick, filling, draining, etc.
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