Jump to content

Metalic rattle / grinding noise


Recommended Posts

Posted

I posted this problem in a different post, but thought it may get more view on its own.

  Allong with the steering wheel clunk I have this rattle sound from up front (I assume is not a related issue)

 It is somewhat intermantant, but I can hear it at all speeds, on the brakes or not, and in turns or not, although it seems to be louder while turning.

  It almost sounds like a tin can is dragging under the front, not sure how to best describe it.  Mostly from the front right tire area.

  Its really annoying...not sure what it is.  Also often times when I hear this I feel a grinding noise in the wheel, and floor.  This grinding / rubbing seems to be harmonic with the motion of the tahoe at slow speeds, almost as if the rotor is rubbing in one spot, to best describe it.

  I know its tough to describe / understand, any direction would be great!!!

 Thanks!

   Mike

Posted
When I first got my truck I heard something like that....turns out there was a thin metal type sticker on my drive shaft...it had the model number and stuff on it.  the corner of it had come unglued from the drive shaft, and when it spun it hit my frame.  Anyway I would check the CV shafts or something that spins for a lable....it sounds dumb but it's what was causing all sorts of noise on my truck.
Posted

I have a weird gurguling/rattling vibration noise coming from under the drivers side of the cab and was going to post about it. ??? It has done this since I bought it and is getting worse.

 

It happens at part idle and gets worse when I turn but not at 1/2 to WOT. Had someone listen to it in the driveway while I tried to make it do it.  Kinda sounds like it's part of the exhaust but we couldn't isolate it.

 

Don't think it's from my exhaust because the noise sounds like it's before the muffler.  Prob. take back to the dealer to let them fix it - warranty  :)

Posted
Just fixed a co-workers 98 Tahoe last Friday. There was a clunking noise comming from the drivers side wheel area. We could duplicate when parked by lifting the body up and down repeatedly. Turned out to be a loose upper shock mount. Cranked it back down and the noise dissappeared. It probably isnt your problem but just thought i'd throw it out there.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...