Jump to content

2016 Silverado 1500 OEM EGR low pro bug shield installed


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey all, well with 2 weeks and 700 miles on the new truck my bug shield from the dealer just got here. Installation was pretty easy no holes to drill or double sided tape. Took about 15 minutes. Instructions were basic, but lining it up on the hood made it easy.

 

a78656912fedfb93e798a8e64c150635.jpg

 

c336823d692d5c283a5dc4cf5fc68c97.jpg

 

0bae4801acd12e386912eec98f8a4ec2.jpg

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Looks good!

Question...Did you have to cut the body sealant caulking bead to get the clips and tabs to fit on the hood edge correctly? I just installed the EGR shield purchased from the dealership and I was disappointed to say the least when I had to cut so much of the body sealant away to get that thing on! The fastener screws on the tabs also made me seriously question my sanity! Would not recommend it.

Posted

 

 

I didn't have to cut anything. I removed the rubber hood gasket by taking out the plastic clips then replaced after installation.

 

 

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

 

 

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Posted

Yes, I took the rubber weatherstrip loose while fitting it also, but there is a bead of rubber body sealant along the underside edge of the hood that kept the metal clips from sliding on all the way or the tabs from seating down corrrectly. The instructions do note that this is to be cut off with a razor blade and the rust preventative lube spread on. Just alot of messing around to get that thing on!

Posted
If you need any accessories, would love to help. We have couple of toys for you at www.eTruckGear.com and offer honest service ( with 100 % positive Amazon feedback we try hard to be there for the customer)

Stop by and take a look. Tonno Pro is a nice brand to look at. Not that well known but super quality and low price. We are also Weathertech approved, meaning warranty applies as opposed to purchases on Amazon. Don't like Weathertech? We have Husky or Maxliner. Amp Research, Thule, Warn, Rhino Rack. Will be glad to help.

Posted

Yes, I took the rubber weatherstrip loose while fitting it also, but there is a bead of rubber body sealant along the underside edge of the hood that kept the metal clips from sliding on all the way or the tabs from seating down corrrectly. The instructions do note that this is to be cut off with a razor blade and the rust preventative lube spread on. Just alot of messing around to get that thing on!

Saw the tube and looked at the directions again and it does say to cut, I guess I was lucky. Folded those clear protection pads over and gently tapped the clips into place. Probably would have returned it or modified the clips before I cut anything.

 

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  
    • They’re not the same wiz as 10-15 years ago.  QC has fallen pretty hard.  The XP line was never good though in the first place.    https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/wix-filter-rusted-through.386492/post-6991372   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/i-ve-used-my-last-wix-filter.27299/   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/looking-for-a-better-replacement-for-wix-51258.403977/   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/convince-me-in-using-the-purolator-boss.401537/post-7420147   the forums are littered with posts and examples of not great wix filters the last couple years 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...