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Ball joint question


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Posted
 
After bending a pickle fork and running to the parts store to buy another one, I got both of them to "pop".

I got off work early today so I'm back at it.

I assembled the idler arm bracket and arm outside of the truck and am about to put it back in.

Pitman arm has been under tension with a puller and a bunch of PB Blaster since last night.

Gonna loosen, then re tighten to see if it lets go.

If not, I'm breaking out the cutoff wheel.

Ain't nobody got time for that.77a73c411e9c251eb6965fdd79a3ef4f.jpgc093fb8f44358ba9d58caebc15f11800.jpg

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Posted

And no, the whole assembly is still attached, sorta.

Steering box is loosened. Idler arm bracket is unbolted.

But I had already replaced the inner and outer tie rods before I realized how much of a PITA this was gonna be.

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Posted

OK, any thought on getting the new arm back on?

And un-fawking munched threads where the nut attaches to the shaft?

Nut is off. Arm is off.
New arm aligns with splines and slides on +/- .5 inches.
Then STOPS.

When I try to thread nut back on it binds after after a turn.

Closer inspection revealed hammered , rounded threads



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Posted

Well, this turned out to be a job where an adjustable wrench was the right tool.
BC I wasn't about to go buy a 33mm box wrench.

I cleaned up the threads a bit with a wire wheel on a drill. Ran the nut on with the adjustable to make sure it went on smoothly.

Then put the lock washer on and worked the nut as tight as I could with a 2' pipe on the end of the wrench.

Barely got a full thread out of the bottom of the nut. But it's tight. Hit it with a little red thread lock too.

This front end rebuild has been a pain in the dick from the beginning.683c102468c2544dc4f7023a976a5032.jpgc89034fbd811e84ea83dc980ad42ac4b.jpg90d9c596af73c5c75ddb4e3cb9c3bd19.jpg485f950b656d527d72a6eba1f75c03f6.jpg

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