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Shortbedred

Ball joint question

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I'm getting ready to replace my upper and lower ball joints, I was wondering if it would be any easier to just replace the upper control arms and ball joint assembly, compared to just pressing out the uppers?

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Just my opinion, it was way easier to just replace the upper control arms as a complete assembly. Plus, new bushings!

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I guess the difference would be if you have a ball joint press. I have a $35 harbor freight ball joint press and using a good 1/2" impact you can pop a joint out and back in pretty quick.

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I have a buddy that has a ball joint press he said I could use, and he would come help if I waited until later this week to do the job. But another question is, if I do decide to replace the whole upper control arm, will that knock my alignment all out of whack? I need to be able to drive the truck roughly 25 miles to get to the nearest alignment shop.

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Driving it 25 miles wont hurt anything unless you can REALLY see the tire is out of alignment.

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Okay, thanks guys! Would changing the Pitmam arm be something easy to do also? Or should I just have the alignment shop change that? They said for a extra 100 dollars they would change the pitman arm

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If it's a 4x4, I would pay them that to do it. I've done several when I was a mechanic and they suck balls

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I replaced the whole UCA assembly on my 06 Z71 Burb, and like has been said, got new bushings out of it as well.

I'm looking at a set of new lower BJ's laying on my garage floor right now and really don't feel like fighting the 12-year old, rusted OE joints out...

I've read in several places that some of the OE forged LCAs had the BJ tack welded in place rather than using a snap ring.

I've thought about replacing the whole LCA assembly, but don't really feel like unloading and pulling the Torsion Bars either.

And the forged LCAs ain't cheap....

Sent from my moto g(6) using Tapatalk

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50/50 
Kinda how I feel.

Both ways to solve the problem are about the same level of PITA

Sent from my moto g(6) using Tapatalk

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I installed both of these kits a few months ago. One was on an S-10, the other a 'Burban.

 

   Not very much fun at all. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

81dJQzElhxL._SL1500_.jpg

81t9AVu-hSL._SL1500_.jpg

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My LCA and UCA ball joints  were frozen to the knuckle.  I didn’t even detach them...because i couldn’t....and ended up needing a new knuckle as well.

 

made for an interesting removal

 

i imagine if your components are in great shape...redo the ballpoints.   If your stuff is rusty as heck then replace it

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I installed both of these kits a few months ago. One was on an S-10, the other a 'Burban.
 
   Not very much fun at all. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
81dJQzElhxL._SL1500_.thumb.jpg.795a95b53ed6ce927e9521ac2ce47bea.jpg
81t9AVu-hSL._SL1500_.thumb.jpg.9d1c3193614697d372feecdca93ea87d.jpg
That's pretty much what I'm working on with my Suburban.

All I have left are the Pittman and idler arms.

Have spent all afternoon trying to get them free from the drag link.

Heat. Pickle fork. Puller. BFH. PB.

Rinse. Repeat.

Pittman arm has pulled away from the steering box, is about 1/2" down the splines.

But neither of the "ball joint" ends of the arms want to budge.

I'm spent.


On a good note, my front sway bar got a fresh coat of gloss black paint. LOL

Sent from my KFDOWI using Tapatalk

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Your trying to get the Idler and Pitman arms off of the drag link yes? 

 

I assume the entire assembly is out of the vehicle. 

 

I would just thread the nut onto the "ball joint" until its flush with the end, and then give it one good solid whack with a mini sledge. It should pop right out. 

 

 

 

Edited by starman8tdc

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