Cutting Wheel Studs????

hurlz07tahoe · August 30, 2016

I've searched and had no luck...but could be that I didn't search every possible way...my appologies!

My set up requires exactly 1 1/4 inch more clearance so that my inner wheel rim doesn't ride hard on my UCAs (front arm) when at full turn. I've got the Bilstien 5100s at full height, Fabtech UCAs, stock high country 20" wheels, and 285/55 BFG AT KO2s.

I want to keep my stock wheels so I got some 1 1/4" BORA spacers (I'm not happy about needing spacers but I don't what new wheels and can't go back to the stock UCAs since I had to open the upper ball joint hole to a full 1/2" on the knuckle for the new UCA ball joints...) The problem is that my wheel studs are about 1/4 too long for the wheels to fit on top of the spacers. So I figure I've got two options....

1) Buy 1 1/2" spacers. Don't really want the wheels/tires sticking out that much further.

2) Cut 1/4" off the tip of the wheel studs so that my wheels clear and fit on the spacers. This works out to be pretty much the whole rounded tip of the stud, just where the threads start.

Am I in danger of doing any harm by cutting the wheel studs? Am I screwed if I ever want to go back to stock (not that I have any plans to)?

Brian Long · August 30, 2016

The spacers are likely going to push the tire out to where you need to trim the bumper valance, and possibly still hit the wheel liner only further out on the skirt. You really need a leveling kit.

Regarding trimming studs, I have read that some people that purchased the 1.5" BORA's and been able to get away with not touching the studs because there wheels had cavities where the studs were, and others running that size that only had to grind a small amount off the end. Cutting them is not a bid deal since the nuts that come with the BORA's are only about .75" tall. Just be sure to not get them too hot (turning them red is VERY bad) so as to not take strength out of them. If you need to replace them later, to go back, it is not the end of the world.

hurlz07tahoe · August 31, 2016

I do have a leveling kit...the Bilstein 5100s at the highest level. I don't want to go out to a 1.5" spacer because I don't want to chance interfering with the fenderoles and then having to cut metal. My wheel cavities are not big enough. I've had a few people strongly suggest to not cut my wheel studs to avoid heating them and weakening them.

The only other feasible option I can see is to weld on a thicker steering stop on to the axle or knuckle...less going all out and doing fab work on the UCA to avoid the interference, but I don't think that's necessary.

If I did cut and then needed to go back for some reason, dint the replacement hub assemblies come with new studs already pressed in?

Txpipeliner · August 31, 2016

You will not need to cut any of the threads off , the nipple on the end of the stud is all you cut. I ground mine down with a tiger disk on a grinder. It's not anything that will affect the structural integrity of the stud.

Brian Long · August 31, 2016

The studs can be purchased with or without the hub -- not every hub comes with studs.

Again, the spacers are not going to solve your problem. Rubbing on a Chevy from oversize tires is avoided with lift, and/or by moving the tire in (positive offset on the wheel). If you go too far in they you risk rubbing the suspension. I am running 35's with a 6" lift on 18x9 wheels with a +12 offset. Guys that run the same tire/lift/wheel size but a negative offset (wheel out) rub where I do not. You may need to go to a 4" lift, and/or different wheel.

The other issue with spacers on the front is the truck is looks. I put 2" BORA's on the rear because the fronts on IFS stick out as it is. Adding 1.5" to each side on the front alone is going to make that even worse.

hurlz07tahoe · August 31, 2016

You will not need to cut any of the threads off , the nipple on the end of the stud is all you cut. I ground mine down with a tiger disk on a grinder. It's not anything that will affect the structural integrity of the stud.

Whats your set up? Lift? Tires? What size spacers? Did you have to do any trimming?

Brian Long · August 31, 2016

'08 2500HD, 6" Zone lift (set level), 35/12.5 R18 Pro Comp A/T Sport tires, 18x9 12 (so 5.5" back spacing) Black Rhino Sierra wheels. No trimming. No rubs. If I crank the wheels and hit a deep hole, hard, it will likely grab the wheel liner a bit but this has yet to happen.

I am also running 2" BORA spacers on the rear only, but that is for looks.

hurlz07tahoe · September 1, 2016

I spent some time taking the wheels on and off and doing some measuring last night and I think the best and simplest option to eliminate the the grinding of the inner rim on the upper control arm leading edge is to weld on some extra material to the lower control arm steering stop pad. Possibly a small nut, to take up about 0.2". That would keep the wheel from contacting the UCA at full steer and it would alleviate all concerns about the spacers.