Jump to content

Intermittent CEL and Erratic Idle


SirManny

Recommended Posts

Posted

Maybe someone has already touched on this topic but i have never had a vehicle do what my 2016 Sierra CC SLT with the 5.3l and 8 speed trans is doing. I had a 2014 Sierra DC with the 5.3l and 6 speed trans and never had any of these issues before or after the headers and tune. So for the past few weeks my truck will throw a cel and it will stay on for a few days and while it is on the truck will have erratic idle. Sometimes the rpm bounces back and forth from 800 to 2500 as if someone is reving the motor. Then it goes away and the truck drives normal aside from the ridiculous/rough shifting and banging that the 8 speed does that the dealer and gm say is normal. The cel will go away for a few hrs or sometimes a day or two and come back and all those symptoms return. Today the truck acted like it wanted to stall on me and took a lil effort to get started. I called the GMC dealer and they said it would be two weeks before they could even touch the car. I called the Chevy dealer and they refused to do any warranty work even though they are the closer GM dealer to me of the two. They also said it would be a week before they would be able to get to it and neither dealera had loaners available. So I ended up calling GM customer service and they worked it out to where a different chevy dealer will tow my truck in on monday and give me a loaner. Has anyone else had a similar issue/situation and if so what was the fix. My truck only has 9k miles.

Posted

Make sure all your spark plug wires are firmly connected, lots of threads on here with similar problems that ended up being just that.

Posted

Make sure all your spark plug wires are firmly connected, lots of threads on here with similar problems that ended up being just that.

I will check those in the morning. Thanks.

Posted

Hey SirManny,

 

Based on there being a Check Engine Light there will be a code, either Active or History that will be starting point to figure what is wrong. I suspect that was obvious. Haven't heard of those exact symptoms but best thing is to start with the code(s) and go from there.. Good Luck!

Posted

So today after checking the spark plugs and wires the cel wouldnt go away so i went to autozone just to have the codes read. The codes were for bank 1 and bank 2 too lean. So i went home checked all hoses and connections for the catch can and clean side seperator and everything was snug and tight. So not really sure if i should take the entire catxh can out and reinstall the factory pcv line before going to the dealer or just leaving ir alone. I had a catch can on my 14 sierra, 11 camaro ss and 13 sierra with no issues. So any ideas?

Posted

Just a thought, are you running e85 in a non flex fuel truck? Running e85 without the the proper equipment will cause it to run lean since e85 requires more fuel to run the same.

Posted

No my 2014 was e85 but not my 16. I run 89 mid grade in it. This problem just started about 2.5 weeks ago. The lift and catch can have been installed for a little over a month now.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
    • // Thank you, also for your  response. More information is always good. This 2013 GMC is most likely my 'forever truck"-I'm 77 and retired...and truck only has 42K on it-very clean-so I try to keep it that way.  Tks again for your  response- glenn
    • I started my install this weekend. Everything was pretty straight forward but I ran into one issue with running power through the firewall. The nipple grommet on my High Country already has a small harness running through it - has anyone else ran into this issue? And on the engine bay side, does the wire basically just penetrate the factory wiring boot? I did this on my '22 Trail Boss and it seems much easier but thats been a few years. My other thought would be possibly drilling a new hole adding a rubber grommet just to the lower left of the factory hole. Thoughts?   Has anyone used a T-harness off the Bose amp and obtained power from there? It seems a little odd that such a small amp needs 3 power leads
    • ///// Ok--Thanks for that info--I could not find yesterday when I looked for the specs on that NAPA filter what I wanted. Their website is not very user friendly. I buy all teh filters for  our three vehicles once or twice a year. Have always run NAPA Gold on everything I own....I buy it thru my Son's account for his business-which he has a Heavy Equipment repair shop-one reason he uses NAPA so much-they have such a full line of coverage for just about anything/anywhere- He gets s  good discount because of volume bought. Anyway-Thank you -Sir for your response.   glenn
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...