Jump to content

454 - 502 exchange


Recommended Posts

Posted

I recently blew up my trusty 454 on a trip over the mountain pass, and I'm currently considering my options. I'm thinking about putting in a 502. I hear that it gets about the same mileage as my 454, but puts out a lot more torque. Anyone got any ideas or advice on the subject?

 

Oh, I also tow a 30' gooseneck trailer weighing in at about 18,000 lbs. Also looking at picking up a 30' fifth wheel.

 

Thanks for the advice.

 

Robert J. Simmons

 

1991 Chev K2500, ext cab, full size bed, 4 wd (best truck ever made)

Posted

All I can tell you is that GM does offer an emission legal 502 retro kit for 454 trucks. I don't know what years are covered. You can go onto the Scoggins Dickey site and look under crate motors, or any site that offer GM Performance crate motors I guess.

Posted

Steppetoe is right. GM offers a 502 crate motor conversion kit designed to replace a tired (or in your case blown) TBI 454.

 

A 502 has the same deck height and block dimensions as a 454, so a 502 should be a direct swap. I'm sure you have to use a newer generation block so you can use your factory knock sensor, oil filter housing, and oil pressure sending unit... but dimensionally they will be the same and a direct swap.

 

You'll see a nice torque gain with a 502. If you keep the stock heads, you probably won't see a big horsepower gain due to the fact that the factory TBI 454 heads were a hinderance on that motor... so they especially will be on a 502.

Posted

Thanks for the info. The 502 I'm looking at is a complete crate motor, just missing intake manifold and ignition system. I was considering rebuilding the 454. BUT someone just told me that the 454 is known for breaking or cracking cranks at around a 100-130 thousand miles. Anyone know anything about this? I would like to have the torque of the 502, if I could do that safely with the 454 I would probably just rebuild it.

 

Thanks for all the help!

 

Robert J. Simmons

Posted

I can't remember if the 454 cranks that were put into late-model trucks were cast or forged. My bet is that they're cast, to decrease cost. If that's the case, then almost every cast crank in a high-torque application sees significant wear by 100-130K miles.

 

What a bummer. Can you imagine loading up your truck and then snapping the crank? I've heard driveshafts break, and I thought THAT was loud. I couldn't even imagine a crank snapping in two.

 

Out of curiousity, what happened to your 454? Did you make a window in the block?

 

Fitz.

Posted

Oh, and by the way-a good forged crank will cost you between $500-$1500. Summit sells a bunch of them for 454's-it's only a matter of how much you want to spend (naturally . . . )

 

Fitz.

Posted

Thanks for all the great info. I've talked it over with my wife and we've decided to go with just buying a new truck and selling the other as is.

 

No window in the block, but it did sound about equivalent to my 12 gauge going off. Finally did get the motor out. Turns out it was an oil pump failure. That seized the main bearings, damaging the crank, and then destroying the connecting rods. Which ruined the block (So that's what all that grinding noise was!)

 

Tomorrow I go over and get my new truck! 2003 Dually CrewCab, 4x4, longbed, with every option I can get! Hope my wife lets ME drive it sometime.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • It is possible to add your own 12v outlet to your truck.  Check out this video:   I verified via GM Upfitters that pin 31 is the same on the 1500 trucks.  The wire is GM part number 84779405.   You can get the GM 12v outlet from Amazon  https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Accessory-Receptacle-25774623-13549530/dp/B0F1H9YRGF EWAY 12 Volt Power Adapter for GM   https://www.amazon.com/EWAY-Chevrolet-Silverado-Cigarette-Ignition/dp/B0915RRW6Q/ref=sr_1_1?   I just haven't figured out a good place to put the 12v outlet in my truck.   Some people are getting USB-C to 12V adapters  https://www.amazon.com/WYMECT-Cigarette-Lighter-Socket-Adapter/dp/B0F87WNQKB/ref=sr_1_1_sspa? Not sure if they provide the correct amperage that a device like a tire inflator would need.  
    • Thanks; I looked there a few minutes, and I think I can find something. I really never looked there, as I thought it was stuff like PTO/aftermarket bodies/accessories like snow plows.
    • This is a 1/2 ton thing ONLY.  All HDs 2020-2026 have the two speed transfer case, with Autotrac as an option.     1/2 tons 2019-2026, regular 4x4s come with a single speed case (no 4LO!), and trucks with Z71 ordered, or all Trail Boss trucks come with the 2 speed case.  2 speed case is also an option on WT, and is also standard on High Country.  
    • 2013 5.3 still to this day calls for the PF48 filter.  Which as a 15psi bypass pressure.     There is a TSB, 17-NA-157 that talks about the PF-63 and PF-64 filters which have a higher bypass rating of 22psi.    TSB HERE - temp.xml   "Beginning in 2012, the oil pumps began to regulate main gallery feedback instead of pump out pressure. This means that the oil pump now does not begin to regulate until pressure is built up to the main gallery. This change reduces the amount of time it takes to provide oil to the engine bearing and lifters during extreme cold start conditions.  Main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are present on the following engine families which use Spin-on oil filters: Small Gas Engine (SGE), Large Gas Engine (LGE), High Feature (HFV6) Gen2 and Small Block Gen5 gasoline engines. These engines with the main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are factory built with an ACDelco® oil filters"   It also calls out what engines use those filters.  The gen 4 small blocks were not on that list (LMG, LC9, L9H, L92, L94, L20, L96).  Gen 5 small blocks use the higher pressure filter.          That all said...   Your 7045 Napa filter is the PF63 equivalent, with 22psi bypass.  You are already using the higher bypass pressure filter.  You CAN keep using it, you don't technically have to use it though.  
    • Do you know WHY the filter relief setting was increased to 22 psig?    When the new system goes into the second stage the pump volume ramps up considerably. It was found that the 15 psi filter bypass setting put the filter in bypass on a warm engine when the second stage was activated. Raising the filter bypass setting forced the filter to do what it designed to do. Filter. Preventing debris from circulating during high load, high rpm operation.    So next question is how did GM find this out? VLOM/lifter failures and a deep dive by Melling Corp.    Last question. Is it required? Look at it like this; a motor may be equipped with a rev limiter. But it only works if the set point in reached. That 22 psig setting only matters if the pressure differential across the filter media exceeds 15 psig during normal warm operation. Second stage kicks in around 3000-3500 rpm.    I can't answer your question because I don't know you and how you use the truck. But I think there is enough information here to let you decide for yourself. 😉
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...