The machine being crazy..

NSFW · October 28, 2016

Alright. Grip this one.

On my way back into town last night one half of the gauges for no reason just died.
I lost the PRND123 / Odometer display, tach, spedo, water temp,fuel gauge and message centre.
Volts and Oil pressure remained active.

I was empty going downhill on the blacktop and had been driving for about half an hour.. Hardly working it at all.

Then, it threw a MIL (P07xx. Torque Converter Clutch voltage etc etc.) which I kind of half expected. It kicked out of o/d and into what I am assuming to be 3rd gear and stayed there.

When I pressed the trip button, the gauges come back. As soon as I let go it goes back to the way it was.
I made it to the house. Parked it rather then beat on it. I cleared the code. Shut it down for the night.

This morning the gauges were back to normal.. no MIL. Somewhat relieved I took it for coffee thinking it was a gremlin and nothing of it, and noticed right away the transmission was in 2nd gear (kinda sluggish) off the shift from reverse. I drove the stick down to 1st and it shifted.
Later, I took it on the highway, it shifted from 3rd into OD like it always does but when it did.. It stayed in 3rd. the MIL turned on . and instantly the gauges did the same thing they did last night. Truck stayed in 3rd. No gauges. Press the trip and yea.. few colorful metaphors and I promptly turned it around and came back to the house to diagnose. Not dying on me on the highway. No sir.

Now I run a 2nd ground strap from the cyl head to the firewall after the 'first time' this happened. Yes it happened once like this before, but for assumed entirely other reasons. The problem then wasn't the grounding so much as the tranny fluid was OVER full by quite a bit. (Yes DERP.. I know.. its shame-full) I left the strap in..anyways. The overfull was causing allot of false transmission problems which went away once the fluid level was returned to normal. The cluster problem (which I had just replaced with a spare I had) I just shelved and wrote it off as a bad cluster and flagged it un-related.

My fluids in the transmission (4L60e) at present are right at the line and have been since. And Ive put 12 to 15000K on the truck since the first incident.

I know there has gotta be a relationship between this TCC failure and the cluster malfunction. I don't believe its a cluster error. The errors gotta be related to one another, and exists somewhere in the data link connecting all this stuff together. Its not the fluid level, or the solenoids in the transmission. But I need someone to explain how all this is related. Maybe there's a bad ground on some computer module, or a worn thru wire somewhere in the harness or corroded because its in a bad spot.

I am pretty sure its something I don't know about yet, or have yet to learn.

Or maybe stuffing a bacon cheeze burger down the throttle body with a broom handle might cheer me up. I dunno.
Kinda hesitant about throwing grocery money at it right away. That and the broom handle interacts with the rad support, as to not give a clear shot. I don't want to take the paint off the handle. My Neighbor would kill me.

Appreciate the help in advance. Trucks parked for now, till I get this fixed.

O_J_Simpson · October 28, 2016

Clean battery connections and test the battery.

Coby7 · October 28, 2016

or a worn thru wire somewhere in the harness or corroded because its in a bad spot.

This is what you are going to find, GMLan wire from OBD2 port chaffed through and touching ground. Try jerking on the harness going to the cluster without ripping it but by possibly moving it enough that the chaffed part isn't touching. It will eventually find it's original resting place but if the problem disappears for a week you'll know your on the right track.

NSFW · October 29, 2016

- Cleaned battery connections, check

or a worn thru wire somewhere in the harness or corroded because its in a bad spot.

This is what you are going to find, GMLan wire from OBD2 port chaffed through and touching ground. Try jerking on the harness going to the cluster without ripping it but by possibly moving it enough that the chaffed part isn't touching. It will eventually find it's original resting place but if the problem disappears for a week you'll know your on the right track.

Key on, cluster dead, no PRND123, MIL on.

Cleared code, same TCC error.

- Pulled face off, and pulled cluster, Checked cluster wiring and traced back grey P/O #6 14Ga wire moving loom gently as I go.

Re-plugged in Cluster, key on. No change.

- Removed knee bash guard, removed metal cover plate.

- Pulled 3 plugs from body control module and inspected each (assumed black box behind leg bash guard under column)

- Checked wiring loom associated with again for chaffing or signs of rub.

Re-plugged BCM, key on, gauges LIVE.

- Moved tilt column up and down rough like (old memory from my Cavalier having a similar wiring issue) with key on, checking for gauge flicker.

- No flicker.

- Followed further direction and checked all other modules associated with GMLan wire.

- Nothing out of the ordinary, re-plugged

- Cycled the ign key a few times, gauges lit every cycle.

Problem seems to be solved for now. Perhaps lost connection on plug end at BCM as I found no evidence (its rather tight and couldn't get 100% visual coverage on loom)

Solved for now. Appreciate the help, Coby/O_J

Coby7 · October 29, 2016

Maybe pin corrosion in those connectors, dielectric grease might not hurt.

NSFW · October 29, 2016

I thought maybe oxidation on the connector. Don't think it was designed to last 16 years, and though the pins are made of a material that is probably inherantly reisistant to corrosion.

GM isn't known for using crap when it comes to electrical connections. But they do have an expected 'life' span.

I searched Delphi and came up with this: http://www.delphi.com/manufacturers/auto/connection-systems/standard-automotive-connection-systems/ocs-unsealed-connectors

It was interesting to see the actual write up on the connector. OCS Unsealed, made not of thier actual NAME of them. Further down the page are the specs. I think it would be safe to assume that the design and construction of the connector falls within theses guidelines. If it aint broke dont fix it, right. Probably a good page to use if one is requiring clarification when repairing and in need of pins.

Moving the connector on the pin, would scrape any oxidization off the pin collected over time. With a resistance of <15.0 mΩ on the .64mm connector. The smaller the connector
the higher its susceptible to resistance with corrosion. Cause its so small.

Anyways.. Today I am messing with a CV boot on the drivers side. Its aint sealing and this would be the 3rd time I have attempted to seal it. Aside from gorping grease all over the inside of the wheel-well, if it aint sealed properly its just gonna eat itself once it runs dry. The stock booties for the CV don't have any elasticity to them. I replaced a set on a Ford about 5 months ago, they were a silicone-rubber substance. Not this garbage-can material. Requiring what looks to be a tremendous amount of tightness placed on the clamp to get it to seal. I've been running those 1/4inch (non screw stainless type)

But, they are one pass, (they only go around once) which is creating a gap under the fastener that is allowing grease out.

I was looking at doubling the wraps as a fix:

I honestly wish I had a box of clips and a roll of the stainless banding material. Could just make my own, and hang it on the wall when I dont need it.
I ordered these tools from amazon, I have a 'sorta' make due set right now, but the right results I bet requires the right tools. That SFA kit sounds pretty sweet right now.

I have a couple bands left, its more trouble to get the thing out of the truck, then it is to band it. Its just.. 3rd time eh. Don't want there to be a 4th.. or a 5th..