Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

What years was the C6P (HD 3/4 ton) option offered? My brother had a "light" 3/4 ton that was a '95.

Posted (edited)

Well...GM has a date range of 1985-2027 for RPO code C6P...lol...

 

1989 appears to be the first year C6P 2500 trucks were offered. https://gmheritagecenter.com/docs/gm-heritage-archive/vehicle-information-kits/Chevrolet-Trucks/1989-Chevrolet-Truck.pdf

 

Starting on page 5 in that ol' breakdown, you can see on C2500 and K2500 the option for both 7200 and 8600 GVWR ranges. I checked the 1988 info package and they had only 7200 GVWR 2500 trucks that year. 2500 trucks for 1988 were 8600 GVWR.

 

Another note to add. C/K 3500 SRW trucks from 1988-1990 were 8600 GVWR. 1991 they apparently didn't offer a 3500 SRW, only DRW. 1992 they brought the SRW 3500 back with the 9000 GVWR for C trucks and 9200 GVWR for K trucks. Come GMT-800, the 9200 GVWR 1 ton evolved to the 2001 release of the 2500HD.

Edited by 15HDriver
Posted

I guess I should've specified when the option added the Z71 flares to the 3/4 ton. Did these trucks use a wider axle?

Posted

I surfed around to a couple of other model years, interesting stuff. Some of the '82 info looked familiar as my father had brought home some similar info before I ordered my '82.

 

The info confirmed what I thought about the tire codes

X - front

Y - rear

Z - spare

 

These prefixes were followed by a 2 letter tire code.

  • 5 years later...
Posted
On 12/14/2016 at 6:16 PM, revrnd said:

What years was the C6P (HD 3/4 ton) option offered? My brother had a "light" 3/4 ton that was a '95.

 

20220525_180446.jpg

20220525_180025.jpg

  • Like 1
  • 5 weeks later...
Posted
On 5/29/2022 at 11:20 PM, mikewasilla said:

 

20220525_180446.jpg

20220525_180025.jpg

Nice! Built in Oshawa Ontario. My father was working there at the time. I didn't start my 1st stint there as a tool & die maker until the following March.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,791
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    d.lowrey
    Newest Member
    d.lowrey
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 4,078 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Just did an injector/HPFP replacement on Pepper at 192,400 miles; close enough to 200K, RIGHT? (If 200K is considered life end and to me it isn't). But hey, to each his own.    Have never run a catch can on this vehicle. Back side of every valve looked like a new valve spray painted semigloss black. Port walls looked 'neat' (all a normal result of passive EGR via VVT) Zero build up even in AFM cylinders. Just color. It uses no measurable oil and never has.    At 155,000 I put her on E-85 and a borescope of the cylinders at plug change showed very clean pistons and valve faces. The replaced injector tips looked new. (It was the pump piston seal that was leaking). Oh well, have six good backups.    Still gets 28 mpg on gas (highway average) and over 20 (highway) on alky. UOA's look good and runs as good now as it did when I bought it. Better in fact.    What improvement would a Catch Can provide this motor?     And given all this I expect that IF I installed one I'd see some water/gas/oil vapor accumulation. Byproducts of normal combustion.   Having said that, IF my motor used an appreciable amount of oil I'd consider it a useful 'crutch' until I had the situation corrected OR if bore polished, until I junked it or rebuilt it to stave off repeated plug fouling.    I'm not telling you what I THINK. But what its DONE.          
    • Love the look. I'm a SCSB lover myself.    Two items. 1.) A spacer changes scrub radius but this also changes when we use wheels of different offsets. A little isn't a big deal. 2.) Steel wheels, alloy wheels all have different thickness. Same effect on the stud and lug nut as a spacer. When hub centric the wheel isn't supported by the stud. It's supported by the hub. The stud just keeps it all together.  
    • I had a evap sol go bad a couple weeks ago. . I replaced it.  While watching live data at the time I saw I had some cylinder 1 misfires. No MIL but on live data I could see ~50 at startup and about 70 more after an hour a drive all on cyl 1.  I also noticed that the LTFT were -5% to -15% always.  And that bank 2 is always -3% richer than bank 1. Even across all driving modes, city, highway, etc it’s always 3% richer than bank 1. So I start with the misfire. Swapped coil, plug, and plug wires from 1 to 3. No follow. I got an Injector reseal kit, pulled the D/s injector rail, swapped #1 and #3 injectors, resealed them, reinstalled and retested.  The misfire followed to 3. So I ordered and replaced all 8 injectors, spark plugs, and plug wires. Also replaced the 1 time use fuel pipes under the intake manifold.  Injectors that were in the truck since new were  Part # 12668390.  I replaced them with # 12742701 Got from RockAuto. Pretty certain they’re genuine and the correct ones. I called a friend at a parts store who told me “the 12742701 were the correct superseded part # for the originals I was replacing”. So started truck after replacing all that and it’s running -15 - -30 LTFTs. I reset the fuel trims with GDS2 and drove it for a 60 miles trip each way. There have been no changes in the LTFTs.  I checked if the HPFP was leaking into the crankcase. I removed the pvc and watched the trims. No difference.  I checked the alcohol content and it was at 10%  I’m out of ideas here. Truck seems to run great. Just always rich on the fuel trims.  Anyone with any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.  I ran an injector balance test just for the heck of it and it came back this. I’m confused.  I have gds2 and some other diag tools if anyone knows of anything I should test next.
    • Definitely needs to go back to the dealer. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...